Kilt Jacket Conversion

[n1kaw]

Hi Everyone!

I'm trying to find instructions on converting a standard Tweed sport-coat into a Kilt Jacket.

I know there are many posts in the DIY section about just this thing, but most are 10+ years old and contain links to outside URL's that are now dead, or are mostly congratulatory comments on a project well done, not the actual instructions themselves. I'm trying to find general guidelines or better yet specific instructions on the conversion process.

I have read comments that the cut of a normal sport-cut is not conducive to the geometry of a kilt jacket. I know I should just order a custom-made Tweed jacket and vest from the many fine vendors on this site.... but I stumbled upon a wonderful Harris Tweed jacket at a local thriftstore.....for $6.....that fits me and matches my Tartan perfectly ! How can I resist ?!

I did contact Victoria MacKenzie in Oregon, but she doesn't do this anymore. So I am now on the hunt for another "X-Marks-The-Scots'er" willing to be paid for the task or a local Tailor who would probably need some pointers on the desired features.

Any Advice is Appreciated.

Kenneth

[Steve Ashton]

Really, the only difference between a suit or sport coat and a kilt jacket is that we wear our jackets shorter and we have a cut-away for the sporran.

Have your tailor make the jacket so the bottom is right about the crest of the hips and buttocks. The bottom of the jacket will now be about the same as the sleeves.

Then in the front do a small round over for the sporran cut-away. Make this small.

Where many people have a problem converting a jacket are not the fault of the tailor but in the original jacket.
Preferably you want double vents in the back. A single vent can work but a double vent looks better with the kilt. The original jacket must have enough fabric in the back seams for them to be let out and raised. Most do not have any extra fabric.
Pay attention to the button hole placement in the front. The reason you see so many huge or misshapen sporran cut-aways is that they find the the bottom button hole is right where they want to have the cut-away.
You will also see quite a few conversions where it appears that the pockets are too low. This is because they were placed for a longer jacket and just look odd down at the bottom when you shorten the jacket. If you have patch pockets it makes things easier.

[Grizzled Ian]

If the current geometry of the jacket just won't permit a tasteful conversion, there is the approach that I think OC Richard has illustrated from his voluminous collection of old photographs. These were from mid- to late-19th century and on into the 20th, showing jackets that we would regard as normal length for wearing with trousers, but being worn with kilts. From memory, I think the jackets were not done up, so the view of the sporrans was unimpeded by the jackets; and some of the wearers were of a particularly high social class, so it was not a matter of them making do with what they could find in meagre wardrobes.

Anyway, try it out and see, and perhaps share a photo.

[Tarheel]

Kenneth, I had a jacket I wanted to convert last year. I was able to download a few pictures that aided my conversion. I hope they will help you.

I believe it was our member Issac that is the jacket conversion king. (At least he gets all the great ebay deals)

[Panache]

Kenneth, I had a jacket I wanted to convert last year. I was able to download a few pictures that aided my conversion. I hope they will help you... I believe it was our member Issac that is the jacket conversion king. (At least he gets all the great ebay deals)

Actually quite a number of these photos are from a step by step photo tutorial that my lovely and talented wife did for XMTS. She went by the moniker "The F-H.C.A.G." (Flame-Haired Celtic Amazon Goddess). In fact I think I am modeling the jacket!

I think the thread is still around and will take you (or help you guide a tailor or seamstress) through the process.

Here it is

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-jacket-30726/

Cheers

Jamie

[Taskr]

Preferably you want double vents in the back. A single vent can work but a double vent looks better with the kilt. The original jacket must have enough fabric in the back seams for them to be let out and raised. Most do not have any extra fabric.

The photo(s) illustrate the issue with venting on a conversion jacket. I did one conversion for the sake of the attempt, and whilst the front turned out rather well - no conflict with buttons and patch pockets removed with a "for show" flap sewn on - the single vent did not have enough fabric above it to extend, nor enough in the tapering seams to open them as double vents. I have moved on to purchase of tailor purposed kilt jackets, but that conversion still draws me from time to time to resolve the vent issue. I might just sew it to the hem and be done with it.

I also used the F-HCAG thread to guide the conversion, along with some other searches and the assistance of a fellow X-marker in providing the pattern for the pocket flap.

[Tarheel]

Thanks for the clarity Jamie. I couldn't remember who posted the original photos and text. I just know that I found the thread valuable.
Bobby

[MNlad]

I believe this is the other thread Taskr was referencing:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-pocket-77590/

Conversions are fun and relatively easy, but they do have their limitations.

[slothead]

This looks pretty good. It tempts me to try it on one of my older coats. Thanks for sharing!

[Steve Ashton]

Another note -

You do not need to make the sporran cut-away real large. Even two and three button jackets can sometimes be converted and still look good.

Today there are quite a few three button front jackets with a smaller cut-away.