Kingussie Pleating Questions

[Lorna]

My next project is a kilt for myself (finally). I purchased some 16 0z. Ancient Old Campbell tartan(which has a large 15 inch repeat) to match the kilt I made for my husband this past winter. While the first kilt was pleated to the stripe, this one I intended to pleat to the sett. I think I should abandon that idea. I bought only 7 metres which with an average size sett would normally be plenty of material. So I am contemplating either pleating to the bar (or no stripe) or take that extra step and try Kingussie pleating.

Here is a photo of the test pinning.


IMG_0164.jpgIMG_0166.jpg


And so, I have four questions:

1) Does the centre pleat need to be any certain size or just use what looks best?

2) How do regular Kingussie and reverse Kingussie compare as to difficulty of finishing the kilt or bulkiness?

3) Are there other considerations outside the norm of making regular knife pleated kilts that must be taken into consideration?

4) I chose the "bar" of colour because I preferred the blue and it looks more feminine than the black stripes or black bar that is found elsewhere in the tartan. Have I somewhat avoided the dreaded "lawnchair" effect?

Regards,
Lorna

[xman]

While I've yet to sew a Kingussie and you should pay closer attention to the replies of those who have, from what I know;
1) What works
2) Anything over 4 or 5 yards will need to have the bulk cut out of it regardless of what style the pleats are sewn into.
3) Read the Making a Historic Box Pleated Kilt addition to Barb's book by Matt Newsome. The pleats after the central bar will need to be approached as if they will be box pleats as you sew them in.
4) I am not afraid of the lawn chair effect, at my girth (or complete lack of it) I have the other problem. ymmv Go with what looks good to you and wear it with pride.

[Lorna]

Thanks Xman for the advice and encouragement.

[Barb T]

Hi Lorna,

Main thing is that you have all the knife pleats facing the wrong way. If you have a regular Kingussie kilt (with a normal box pleat for the tail pleat), the knife pleats should face _away_ from the tail pleat. The knife pleats face _toward_ the tail pleat in a reverse Kingussie (i.e., one with an inverted central pleat).

You might look at the following post that I wrote awhile back:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...t-woman-75461/

I drew a diagram showing what you want to aim for in the tail pleat and what you want to avoid. it also shows how the pleats should face. A reverse Kingussie would look like the same diagram but upside down.

The pleating you've chosen has a strong horizontal element, but the stripes are wide enough and muted enough that there's no lawnchair effect.

[Lorna]

Thanks Barb for the answers and the link. I also found and downloaded your instructions for Making a Traditional Box Pleated Kilt which Xman recommended which I found here:http://www.scottishtartans.org/boxpleat.html