Military Box Pleat With A Hem

**Aspiringloser** · 1st August 11, 02:41 PM

Have any of you out there ever sewn a military box pleated kilt that required you to turn a hem? Would you advise against using fabric that would require a hem? I have some PV that I'm considering attempting a military box pleat and it will require a hem.

**Chas** · 2nd August 11, 07:37 AM

I wear a PV kilt that is hemmed. It is knife pleated to the sett. I cannot see that it would be any more difficult to make a kilt that was box pleated. Provided that you hem first before making the kilt.

Regards

Chas

**Aspiringloser** · 2nd August 11, 02:30 PM

I guess I should have been more clear. I'm talking about the bulk. Since the military box pleat is folded back upon itself along with the hem folded up, would it cause too much bulk to be manageable?

**Chas** · 2nd August 11, 02:53 PM

I am not sure I understand what you are saying. The hem at the bottom is a regular feature and easily manageable. If you are talking about a hem at the waist, why would you want to do that? Once the cloth is hemmed it is torn to the correct width. The hem is at the knee and the torn edge is covered by the waistband. No need for a waist hem.

Regards

Chas

**Aspiringloser** · 2nd August 11, 02:57 PM

No, not a waist hem. Since the military box pleat is a knife pleat folded back upon itself I'd guess there would be more bulk. Add a hem in there and even more bulk. Would it be best to only make a military box pleated kilt from fabric that has a proper selvedge so that no hem is needed.

**Chas** · 2nd August 11, 03:08 PM

I am not a kiltmaker (although I have read Barbara's book), so I am really out of my depth. All I know is that PV has less bulk than wool, that I have a knife pleated PV kilt (made by Geoffrey (Tailor) of Edinburgh and that a selvedge is always preferable.

I really don't know any more - sorry.

Regards

Chas

**Aspiringloser** · 2nd August 11, 03:09 PM

No worries, man. Thank you for the replies.

**Barb T** · 2nd August 11, 06:45 PM

Boy, that would be a LOT of bulk at the hem. But you could do a little test section to see how it would work. I'm not optimistic that you would be happy with how it would look.

**Aspiringloser** · 2nd August 11, 06:48 PM

That was my thinking and indeed the reason for posting this. I'd love to try making one but of all the pieces of PV I have, most have the fringe selvedge. I suppose I could pin a hem in place and then try folding the pleats.