Tartan doublet DIY notes and details.

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 20th July 10, 10:37 AM

Originally Posted by scotchmaster

Hothir Ethelnor,

Can you post some more in depth pics of this jacket? and a more complete explanation? It is intruiging... I would like to see and know more.

Originally Posted by okiwen;

That coat is cool as hell! I have to have one!!! Is this a pattern you made and tailored yourself?

To stop from further derailing another member's thread I'll take questions here regarding my tartan doublet.

Here are some previously posted pics.

Here is what I have already said about it.

My coat is based on McCall's pattern M4864

Changes I made were to totally recut each pattern piece along the bottom adding ten inches to the back and side pieces and making a smooth curve from the edge of the front piece down to the back pieces. I ignored the sleeve caps and the peplum (waistbandish pieces)

I made cuffs using a different pattern for an Argyle jacket although they are a very simple shape and easy to make. I also pinned the darts together before cutting the jacket out as I didn't want darts interrupting the tartan pattern on the front of the jacket.

One thing I did was to fuse lightweight interfacing to each piece so that they didn't skew out of shape as woven fabric is stretchy on the bias.

Scotchmaster would like more pics so I'll take those as I have time and update this thread over the next week.

**D.A. Guertin** · 21st July 10, 07:53 AM

Seriously cool there, Gabe! I wonder how bright my MacLeod of Lewis would be in this pattern?

**xman** · 21st July 10, 08:30 AM

Originally Posted by D.A. Guertin

Seriously cool there, Gabe! I wonder how bright my MacLeod of Lewis would be in this pattern?

ouch

**scotchmaster** · 21st July 10, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by D.A. Guertin

Seriously cool there, Gabe! I wonder how bright my MacLeod of Lewis would be in this pattern?

You would be easy to find in a crowd...

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 21st July 10, 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by D.A. Guertin

Seriously cool there, Gabe! I wonder how bright my MacLeod of Lewis would be in this pattern?

is right. I imagine someone could pull the look off. I would prefer not too try...

I chose Gordon because it has a simple visible pattern (and I happened to have the cloth left over from another project) I like simple clothing so I was wary of a tartan doublet in the first place because I didn't want to look over the top but it turned out so nice I would like to try it with other tartans as I have the chance.

(anyone think that a pv doublet in X-marks tartan would be exceptionally pleasing?)

**longhuntr74** · 22nd July 10, 07:07 PM

Ok...I have questions!!! I'm close to getting started on my doublet project...I'm going to be making something open fronted and collarless like these. My questions are:

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

At risk of sidelining this thread, I'd ask anyone else with tailoring knowledge to provide inputs on these questions also...either here...or via PM. Thanks. No issues with your posts on my thread Gabe...we're all friends here...discussion is welcome!

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 22nd July 10, 07:29 PM

Anyone is free to post thoughts and experience it won't be limited to my project only.

**fluter** · 23rd July 10, 08:05 PM

Originally Posted by longhuntr74

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

I have not done so, but I'd say "yes" to all.

Here's a very accessible book that describes 3 levels of construction (fusible interfacing, machine sewing, hand sewing). Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 24th July 10, 06:06 AM

Originally Posted by longhuntr74

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

I did not use shoulder pads. The pattern didn't allow for them and I was unsure if they were historical so I didn't bother.

I used lightweight fusible interfacing on every pattern piece to keep them from stretching out of shape. I also used heavy kiltmaking hair canvas on the front pieces.

**longhuntr74** · 24th July 10, 07:11 AM

Good thoughts on fuseable...I'm certain I'll be using a combination for the vest and coat I will be making as well. I know that 18th century jackets did not have shoulder pads...which is why I asked. Curious about modern tux and dinner jackets...I'm thinking that formal jackets may not use them today either. I see them as more of a sportcoat/suitcoat type of thing...perhaps some very thin ones of felt might be appropriate. I'm pretty broad shouldered as it is...so anything I put in the shoulder will simply be for smooth lines and to fill the clavicle area vs. trying to create a broad shouldered look. Does anybody have any thoughts or knowledge of tailoring that could confirm or deny shoulder construction in most modern doublets?

On a separate note, I made a pressing ham last night...turned out great, cost me nothing, let me get rid of a bunch of wool and cotton scraps I had been saving for no reason, and only took about 45 mins or so to make. I love fast simple projects!