Tartan waiscoat design and fabric

**longhuntr74** · 17th July 10, 04:33 AM

I asked for input a couple of weeks ago regarding the jacket that Mackenzie Frain terms the 1822 commemorative coatee...rest assured that I haven't abandoned that project. I'm actually conceptually building an entire ensemble...and since I'm so busy with work at the moment, it will remain a concept for the time being. Anyways...the reason for this thread...

I'm looking to make a 4-6 button waistcoat made of wool tartan and have looked through several pics on several threads. I've noted several variants of cut on collar and bottom and also want to solicit feedback on fabric weight.

Firstly, on the weight of fabric and sett: What are the thoughts of the masses on the best weight of tartan to make a waistcoat? I'm thinking that 11oz would be ideal...perhaps 13oz. If I were to go with a lighter weight, I realize this means a smaller sett. Does anybody have thoughts about how a smaller set on a waistcoat looks in contrast to a kilt made of the same tartan in a 16oz? This will be cut on the bias, by the way.

Secondly, I'm a bit torn between a straight cut bottom or a notched bottom (I'm not sure the proper terms...but I hope you know what I'm talking about). I think a straight cut bottom looks best if one intends to wear a belt over it, but since I don't, I think I'm leaning towards the more traditional v notch at the bottom of the button seam. What are your thoughts?

Thirdly, I'm torn on putting lapels on the vest. Is there any guidance on when lapels on a vest would be appropriate or not? I'd like this vest to be as all purpose as possible...for wear with a formal doublet, a black argyle, or as a standalone vest with a regular 4 in hand necktie.

Finally, I'm going on the assumption that a satin back is a definite for heat and bulk issues when worn under a jacket. Is there anybody out there that would advocate for a full tartan back on a vest? Just curious.

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 17th July 10, 05:14 AM

Well I think varying sett sizes in a single outfit look smashing so I wouldn't worry about that as long as the waistcoat is cut on the bias.

I would go with the shaped bottom and no lapels.

A satin back is good if you want it to be cooler. I am only making a full back vest for my tweed ensemble because I intend to wear it when it's colder.

Here are some pictures that show how sett sizes compare when worn together.

**fluter** · 17th July 10, 05:52 PM

I have plans for two such vests, myself: one in 13-ounce wool, one in Marton Mills poly-viscose (11-ounce)---and possibly a 16 ounce later. I'm going to look at a couple of patterns for guidance, such as Folkwear #222, Laughing Moon #109 plus lots of photos here and some examples in my closet.

I will avoid lapels, on the grounds that matching them in any meaningful way to a bias-cut tartan would be beyond me! If I can get the tartan to look decent at the front, I'll be ecstatic.

Satin back or tartan? could go either way. A tartan back lends itself to being worn without a jacket, and I believe it would look dressier alone. Satin might be cooler, either with or without jacket.

In one case, this may be decided for me by the amount of tartan fabric available. I have about a meter of tartan to match my muted Wallace. That may not be enough for a bias-cut front and full back.

**longhuntr74** · 17th July 10, 06:36 PM

I think you're both right on the collar and the bottom. I was looking around on the web this evening after getting home from work...and found this.

Brocade Waistcoat

It's the style I'm going for...and in fact, I may buy one very similar to this for some variety as well...I could picture either looking very nice with my jacket that I have in mind.

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 17th July 10, 07:56 PM

To match the tartan on the front align the center line of the waistcoat (usually marked as a button or buttonhole line on the pattern) straight through the corner of the sett. Cut one side out then place it right sides together with your remaining tartan and line it up exactly at all edges pinning it in place so that it doesn't move then cut the second piece out. You should end up with perfectly mirrored front pieces. make sure you mark the right side of each piece because you can very easily lose track of it when everything is cut out at crazy angles.

That is a wonderful brocade waistcoat I was going for that look when I made my regency outfit but the waistcoat came out a bit large so I wore my doublet buttoned up and went without it.

**longhuntr74** · 17th July 10, 08:43 PM

Oh no...for regency, you need something like this...

Regency Waiscoat

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 18th July 10, 05:05 AM

Well that's what I meant I was talking more about fabric choice than the cut of the pattern.

I did make it with a high collar and flat bottom.

**okiwen** · 18th July 10, 10:30 PM

That coat is cool as hell! I have to have one!!! Is this a pattern you made and tailored yourself?

**Hothir Ethelnor** · 19th July 10, 06:54 PM

My coat is based on McCall's pattern M4864

Changes I made were to totally recut each pattern piece along the bottom adding ten inches to the back and side pieces and making a smooth curve from the edge of the front piece down to the back pieces. I ignored the sleeve caps and the peplum (waistbandish pieces)

I made cuffs using a different pattern for an Argyle jacket although they are a very simple shape and easy to make. I also pinned the darts together before cutting the jacket out as I didn't want darts interrupting the tartan pattern on the front of the jacket.

One thing I did was to fuse lightweight interfacing to each piece so that they didn't skew out of shape as woven fabric is stretchy on the bias.

You could PM me for more details if you want.

back on topic... I think lightweight wool in a different sett size as long as the colours match is a very good idea,.

**scotchmaster** · 20th July 10, 09:22 AM

Hothir Ethelnor,

Can you post some more in depth pics of this jacket? and a more complete explanation? It is intruiging... I would like to see and know more.

Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor

My coat is based on McCall's pattern M4864

Changes I made were to totally recut each pattern piece along the bottom adding ten inches to the back and side pieces and making a smooth curve from the edge of the front piece down to the back pieces. I ignored the sleeve caps and the peplum (waistbandish pieces)

I made cuffs using a different pattern for an Argyle jacket although they are a very simple shape and easy to make. I also pinned the darts together before cutting the jacket out as I didn't want darts interrupting the tartan pattern on the front of the jacket.

One thing I did was to fuse lightweight interfacing to each piece so that they didn't skew out of shape as woven fabric is stretchy on the bias.

You could PM me for more details if you want.

back on topic... I think lightweight wool in a different sett size as long as the colours match is a very good idea,.