An X-Kilt deep pleat question

[CavScout19D]

I am almost done with my first X-Kilt, however I have a question regarding the deep pleat and I'm hoping someone might have the answer. I have a portion (corner) of the deep pleat that extends below the hem of the over apron. What can I do to get rid of it so the hem is even straight across the bottom?

Thank you

[The Wizard of BC]

These are called 'apron tips'. You fold these up and sew a small angled hem here.

[Pleater]

I'd recommend that you tack the top of the kilt and put it on to see if those pleats roll out. I think it all depends on quirks of anatomy combined with where the pleat is made on the circumference, but sometimes the pleat is pushed out. It happens with just about every kilt I have made for myself, so I pull the inner fold up above the line of the top of the kilt so there is a long thin triangle visible, which is then hidden in the waist band.

It is a technique used in bias cut garments to correct the outline of skirts and sleeves.

Another way to do the same thing would be to sew vertically along the inner fold two or three lines of stitches to make a slight gathering and so shorten the fabric. A wool could be pressed to make the shortening permanent. That could be done after the band was sewn, if the fault were only found then.

Anne the Pleater

[ratspike]

Dealing with the tips of the deep pleats is one of the last things I do on a kilt. I do it before edge stitching the reverse pleat. Cut along the edge of the pleat, about an inch and a half or so, press the raw edges under, then sew. It's a nice finishing detail that's part of the difference between homemade and handmade.

[ImperialPint]

I just finished dealing with that deep pleat under the apron. I must have read the instructions 20 times trying to measure and fold different combinations. I am extremely gratefully to the author, but I would like to see more photos to go along with the text. My pleat measurements and layout went very well, and the pleats with the edges sewn look amazing. But I struggled with the amount of fabric between the #1 pleat and the A shaped apron. I'm not sure if the length of fabric between the two should have been shortened to accommodate my 9 inch apron. The Deep Pleat looks great when ironed down and hangs nicely, but when opened up it certainly looks strange.

But overall the first attempt has been fun. This one is for my son for Christmas. He wanted one and agreed to let his be the first with all the learning faults and rusty sewing techniques.

Cheers