How Long To Weave 8 Yards Of Tartan?

[Downunder Kilt]

I was just going through my kilts and got to wonder about the time differece in the weaving process, that is, how long does it take to weave 8 yards of tartan by the vararious means that are used today?

1 - Hand weave as done by Peter MacDonald of the STA
2 - Custom weave as done by D C Dalgliesh on a older style loom
3 - Standard weave on a high speed rapier loom as done by a majority of mills

I realise that there will be difference due to some fabrics being double width and only 4 yards needed, but just want to get an idea.

Thanks for any input that maybe forthcomming

[piperdbh]

I think I've read that a weaver of Harris tweed can weave 8 meters a day, so Dalgliesh's looms probably can weave a little faster than that, and the big rapier-style looms even faster. Peter will know.

[figheadair]

I think I've read that a weaver of Harris tweed can weave 8 meters a day, so Dalgliesh's looms probably can weave a little faster than that, and the big rapier-style looms even faster. Peter will know.

Well I know how much I can weave for certain. The rest is a bit of guess work but I'll have a bash. The common question to all of these is how long does it take to set the loom? More and more of the process has become automated and so overall things have become faster and therefore cheaper which is why hand woven cloth is no longer generally available like so much else that's traditional and labour intensive.

Another factor is whereas I would normally set a loom for a single length, max two for one run a power loom, accepting that Dalgliesh will do short runs at a premium) is normally set for a half or a full piece - 30 and 60 yds respectively.

Let me quash one myth for ever. Harris Tweed is not, and generally has not been 'Handwoven' for over 100 years despite what it says on the label. It's at best being economical with the truth. Marion Campbell's (now deceased) cloth was hand spun, dyed and woven on a wooden handloom. Most traditional tweed was woven on a semi-automatic Hattersley were the weaver provided the power by means of a treadle. A Harris tweed weaver, well most, would have been incapable of using a true handloom.

And so the the OP

I was just going through my kilts and got to wonder about the time differece in the weaving process, that is, how long does it take to weave 8 yards of tartan by the vararious means that are used today?

1 - Hand weave as done by Peter MacDonald of the STA
2 - Custom weave as done by D C Dalgliesh on a older style loom
3 - Standard weave on a high speed rapier loom as done by a majority of mills

I realise that there will be difference due to some fabrics being double width and only 4 yards needed, but just want to get an idea.

1 - It takes me a 1-2 days to set my loom depending on the complexity of the sett and then 4-6 yards for a 10 hr weaving day, again depending on the complexity of the sett. The best I've managed was 8 yards, the least 2. If I were to use natural dyes that process would extend to about 2 weeks all up and the resulting length be a one off.

2 - It probably takes 4-6 hrs to set up one of Dalgliesh's old looms after which they would probably weave something like 16-20 yards a day, single of double. I'm not too sure but they would be able to tell you.

3 - Anything I said about the modern rapier looms would be pure guess work but I will ask some of the STA trade members and see if they are prepared to give an answer.

[Downunder Kilt]

Thankyou for the most informative reply Peter. I can certaily see where the cost of a true handwoven length of tartan comes from (and most deservedly so) and as I have several one off runs by Dalgliesh, I consider their cost most reasonable as well. Cheers and thanks again

[piperdbh]

Let me quash one myth for ever. Harris Tweed is not, and generally has not been 'Handwoven' for over 100 years despite what it says on the label. It's at best being economical with the truth. Marion Campbell's (now deceased) cloth was hand spun, dyed and woven on a wooden handloom. Most traditional tweed was woven on a semi-automatic Hattersley were the weaver provided the power by means of a treadle. A Harris tweed weaver, well most, would have been incapable of using a true handloom.

I had read the advertising stuff about HT being "handwoven", then saw a video clip of one of the weavers whose loom was powered by the pedals off of an exercise bicycle. He sat at the loom pedaling away. I suppose he could have pedaled with his hands instead of his feet.

[Riverkilt]

I had Kathy Lare arrange for Dalgliesh to weave the fabric for my last kilt. I didn't wait any longer than my usual 3 month wait for it. While I was waiting my turn she had it woven up. So not sure how long it actually took - if you're looking to sew it up yourself. But if you're ordering through a full time kiltmaker guess it wouldn't take any longer than an easily obtainable tartan since the deciding time factor is waiting your turn in line at the kiltmaker. Hope that makes sense....

[sydnie7]

That's an interesting answer, Peter, thanks! When I read the OP it sounded like a "how high is up" sort of question but should have known there would be expertise enough on this forum to answer it.