Australian Highland Dress in 1898

[neloon]

I thought our Aussie friends and others might be interested in this quaint newspaper report from the "Goulburn Herald" of 24 September 1898.

..." Amongst the adults present on the night of my visit was one who by reason of his height, his commanding appearance, and his magnificent costume, stood out prominently from all others. This was Mr. D. C. Mc Donald, the elected chief of the McDonald clan in Argyle. Dave is a native of the colony, but is as fine a specimen of the "braw John Hielanman" as ever donned a kilt, or buckled on a sporran. I am not much of a judge of tartans nor of Highland costumes; but one glance was sufficient to convince me that the costume worn that evening by Mr. Mc Donald was one of unusual beauty and importance. On making inquiries I found that it was a complete Highland costume which Mr. McDonald had just received from Scotland, where it had been specially made for him by Mr. William Ferrier, the great Carnoustie tailor, who has gained a very enviable fame in ths making of these costumes. The complete costume consists of a full-dress Highland doublet and vest, full kilt, shoulder plaid, pair kilt drawers, pair diced tartan hose, pair clan hose, Glengarry bonnet with silver crest, pair garters with silk bows attached, shoulder brooch, sporran, skean dhu, black leather shoulder bolt, waist bolt, and pair shoes with buckles. The kilt and plaid are composed of course of that beautiful combination of colours known as the McDonald tartan. The plaid is twelve feet long by six feet wide, and is a magnificent article. The doublet and vest is of the best dress cloth, and is excellently made, and embellished with silver buttons. The massive and artistically engraved shoulder-brooch is of solid silver, in which is set a magnificent cairngorm. The buckle of the waist bolt, and the sporran plate are also of silver, and are artistically inscribed with the Mc Donald crest and motto. The crest consists of a hand fesswise proper, holding a cross crosslet fitchie; encircling this is a bolt bearing the motto, "per mare, per terrares.' The same crest and motto is also on a silver shield on the Glengarry bonnet. The skean dhu is encased in a beautifully silver mounted scabbard, set with a fine cairngorm stone. The shoe-buckles and the various clasps connected with the costume are all of silver, and are engraved with the thistle and other emblems of tho land o' cakes. The whole costume is particularly well made, and as may be supposed is of great value. It is exceedingly beautiful, and I am credibly in formed-indeed by a brawny Scot, who has seen perhaps all the best Scotch costumes in the colony--that Mr. McDonald's is unquestionably the most handsome and costly in Australia. I trust he may long be spared to display it, and to reign as chief of the McDonald's. "...

[Tarheel]

I believe this journalist could have presented a running commentary on any of the current "red-carpet" affairs that are shown today. What a well described (and detailed) account. I can visualize the attire completely. If he had included colors of the cloth, any one would "see" it in their minds eye.

[MacEanruig]

Always a pleasure to read a nice historical account. Thank you sharing this!

[MinusHD]

Great article! This is the first mention I've seen of "kilt drawers". I believe I can imagine what these are, but I tried a little searching and I stumbled across an older thread that mentioned "kilt drawers". The conversation went along the lines that these were provided by kilt makers, and that they may have been issued in the military for certain situations/environments. Does anyone have any additional info, description, photos, etc. of these "kilt drawers"? When did they gain popularity, and when did they fall out of use? Perhaps the advent of more modern undergarments? Or the desire, or military custom, to "man up" and go regimental?

[neloon]

Minus,
They were just shorts with a fitted waist and button fly made in the same tartan as the kilt.
http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-ph...ng-out-of-kilt
They were originally part of Officers uniform in the Highland regiments but two pairs came to be supplied automatically by civilian kiltmakers up until WW2 and to order thereafter. They were not, of course, very hygienic because they could not be washed very frequently and they were not very comfortable even by the comfort standards of those days. They were usually just called "(under)trews".
The "regimental" rule applied only to Privates (the lowest rank of soldier) when on active service but, by WW1, even they were issued with plain "drawers, short" against the extreme cold of the trenches and for civilian wear - my father was one such soldier.
Alan

[tpa]

Minus,
They were not, of course, very hygienic because they could not be washed very frequently and they were not very comfortable even by the comfort standards of those days. They were usually just called "(under)trews".
Alan

I will second that. My first kilt came complete with a pair. I very quickly and conveniently "lost" them.

[OC Richard]

This is the first mention I've seen of "kilt drawers".

I'd never heard of them until I started collecting vintage Highland Dress catalogues.

A while back I poste the entire Anderson 1936 catalogue

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...talogue-74888/

Here's the page which mentions kilt drawers, part of the "Highland Dress in the Evening" section



About that article, thanks for posting! An interesting insight into a different time and place.

There are a number of 19th century photographic portraits taken in the USA showing quite elaborate Highland Dress, the American equivalent of the Mr MacDonald of that article.

I notice the term "full kilt" which my old Pipe Major found highly amusing:

"People are always calling to hire me, asking if I'm going to wear my 'full kilt'. One of these days I'm going to say 'no, I think for your event I'm going to wear my half kilt'."

He could not imagine what a 'half kilt' might be, but if there's a 'full kilt' there must also exist a partial one.

[neloon]

I will second that. My first kilt came complete with a pair. I very quickly and conveniently "lost" them.

As youngsters, we didn't always have that option!
Alan

[Jock Scot]

The 'washing linen", cotton as I recall, ones were definitely a better option!

[HootinHoller]

Doublet and vest? Isn't the doublet the military style jacket that buttons to the neck?

Um, why the vest then? Other than making the tailor more money that is.