A very special Doublet

**Ancienne Alliance** · 3rd September 10, 11:25 PM

It's been a few years now that I've been pondering upon the matter of getting a new formal evening jacket made for myself. A decade ago, the vast majority were into the Prince Charlie Coatee, but I confess I was lurking elsewhere, feeling half guilty... Indeed, I was once more leaving the safe, comfortable road of established social conventions for the risky razor's edge path of the unwonted.

Exactly eleven years ago, I had a vision of what I thought would be a rather nice Doublet for me to wear for my wedding, and Chrystel, my fiancée at the time, made it for me... A labour of love. Recently, just a few years ago, thanks to this Forum, I was able to meet our Hamish, who then daringly but enthusiastically pointed out the uniqueness of the Montrose Doublet and its superiority over the “Prince Charlie” for evening wear. Seeing him wear such a Doublet on Burn's night at Ferintosh House in Dumfries was a revelation to many, including myself. The pics posted pacified me greatly: there could be a life outside P. C.

Quite coincidently, in the years that followed, more and more online boutiques and vendors offered a variety of “Kilt Doublets”: Montrose Doublets, of course, but also Kenmore Doublets, Appin Doublets, Sheriffmuir Doublets, Regulation Doublets, Balmoral Doublets, and even Special Doublets like the Achara Doublet, “...a magnificent reproduction of an article made for David Stewart of Achara”. Whilst Tartan Doublets were hardly being worn but by a very few gentlemen (considered almost as “tartan freaks”), tartan doublets and coatees are now commonly sold on the Internet.

It is now obvious that black Barathea isn't the only fabric suitable for formal evening wear, and visionary scholars like our Matt Newsome opened new paths by getting himself made a gorgeous blue Harris Tweed Doublet. These aren't novelties per se and were found in museums around the world, but very few feel confident enough to risk something different when it comes to innovation in formal Highland wear.

I recently had the opportunity to meet a handful of very creative Scottish gentlemen who have decided to go their own inspired way and show up at formal events in rather extravagant, almost eccentric, attire. Nonetheless, their excellent taste and long experience made them come up with something refined, original and in all ways refreshing, simply by analyzing and combining period garments of the eighteenth century with the Romantic views of the nineteenth century.

This, plus our previous pondering of historical paintings and prints of artists such as Richard Waitt, Martin Englebrecht, Richard Wilson, Allan Ramsay, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Thomas Faed, David Morier, H. Alken, Felix Philip-poteaux, David Allan, David Wilkie, Dennis Dighton, Kenneth MacLeay, R.R. McIan and William Semple, finally convinced Lady Chrystel to take an important step by creating a very, very special Doublet for her husband - a modern, avant-garde, finely tailored garment, almost provocative in some ways by its “Period” and Romantic influences, and yet deeply rooted. The ripe fruit of years of brainstorming.

Ironically, it is very close to the wedding Doublet Chrystel had made for me years back, but with different fabric, different buttons, and cuffs à la R.R. McIan...

It was offered to me today, as a gift to celebrate our eleventh wedding anniversary. It is one of a kind. The Lovat blue Alcantara fabric and 22 carats gold plated buttons give it this French-exiled Scottish gentleman's flavour I so cherish as being part of my personal, family story and heritage.

With Robertson Modern tantan kilt and bias cut waistcoat.

With MacKinnon tartan kilt and fly plaid à la Great Belted Plaid.

(foot note) With a little imagination, you can easily guess how smart this could also be in black or dark navy, with silver buttons; or in green velvet with antiqued brass buttons, or burgundy.

Here is my wedding Doublet. Dark brown tweed; Turtle shell buttons.

Best,

Robert

**Downunder Kilt** · 4th September 10, 12:14 AM

Absolutely breathtaking Robert and you wear it as an gentleman should. The buttons alone are something to behold. I gather the presentation of it was made by Lady Chrystel, which makes you a very lucky man.
Congratulations to the both of you on your anniversary

**denmcdough** · 4th September 10, 03:57 AM

Robert, that's is a wonderful look!! The jacket is very nice. Ah, we should all be as photogenic as you!

**longhuntr74** · 4th September 10, 04:15 AM

As someone who is on a similar quest to produce a custom, one of a kind doublet made just for me, you thread title caught my attention. Yours is absolutely splendid! Lady Chrystel's garments are a work of art and you are a very lucky man to be married to her. I'm currently about 3-4 hours work away from finishing my first kilt (which I made for a good friend of mine) and need to finish stitching in the lining and sewing the buttonholes on a tartan waistcoat. When those two projects are done, I'll be starting work on my velvet doublet!

As for your photos....I always love seeing them so...your house is lovely. It reminds me of a museum. Keep the pics coming!!

**artificer** · 4th September 10, 04:24 AM

Simply amazing!

I continue to be dumbfounded by your good wife's skill with cloth of all sorts.
The doublet is a thing of beauty, and fits exactly your description- both French and Scottish.

I was lusting after one of your waistcoats (which MAY be the one you're wearing with the MacKinnon tartan and plaid), now I've got to add yet another item of your wardrobe to my "green list":mrgreen:

Contratulations also on your 11th anniversary. Many happy and healthy years to you both.

BTW: My wife and I just celebrated our 11th as well.

**Tartan Tess** · 4th September 10, 04:35 AM

I wish Lady Chrystel would write a book on sewing. With chapters on making doublets, vests, shirts and of course, double box pleat directions.
She is one talented lady. Thanks for the pictures