Kilt Material Considerations

[slothead]

I know that the tartans are available in both wool as well as Polyviscose fabric, and I know that the PV is generally less expensive and have different pleat-hold characteristics. I also know that (depending on the quality) wool can irritate my skin. I wouldn't call it an allergy so much as an in-familiarity - I don't where wool next to my skin very often. (Back in the days of my hunting, I couldn't wear the 'standard' woolen socks because they felt so uncomfortable.) So my question is: how can I best get an idea of the differences between the materials and how they feel on my skin for a day without acquiring kilts of both fabrics and wearing each of them?

[RSHAW]

I would think a kiltmaker, such as Rocky at USA Kilts could provide samples. I bought a couple of 13 oz wool samples for a considered kilt, and no doubt he has many scraps of pv material in his shop. Would a small sample be enough to essentially patch test your skin? I have 3 casual kilts from USA and especially in a hot Florida climate they are comfortable and trouble free. Good luck.

[Cygnus]

I'd do what RSHAW suggested - get a few small samples and tuck one in each sock for a day to see what each material feels like.

[California Highlander]

... So my question is: how can I best get an idea of the differences between the materials and how they feel on my skin for a day without acquiring kilts of both fabrics and wearing each of them?

Perhaps try renting a couple of kilts to see how it goes? Some hire shops let you rent just the kilt and skip the jacket/hose/etc. You could do some research and find someone with a 13oz, 16oz, maybe even a Marton Mills PV. I remember someone having those, but can't remember if it was Freedom Kilts, USA Kilts, both, or someone else entirely....

[sbevans]

Perhaps try renting a couple of kilts to see how it goes? Some hire shops let you rent just the kilt and skip the jacket/hose/etc. You could do some research and find someone with a 13oz, 16oz, maybe even a Marton Mills PV. I remember someone having those, but can't remember if it was Freedom Kilts, USA Kilts, both, or someone else entirely....

I agree that if you have concerns, try renting one for a trial. With that said, I have A PV kilt, and find it quite comfortable. However, I personally prefer wool. Different mills, and different weights seem to feel different, (at least to me), and perhaps some of the members with more knowledge can comment on which of these might be more suitable for you. If you do rent, try to find out the specifics on the tartan, (which mill, what weight).

[The Wizard of BC]

There are three reasons why people seem to have a problem with wool.

The first is a contact dermatitis caused by the cut ends of the wool 'hairs'. In some woolen fabrics these ends stick out sideways and can 'poke' your skin. This is the itchy or scratchy feeling some report. Kilt wool is 'Worsted" which means the wool fibers are straightened and laid parallel prior to spinning in to yarn. The yarns for kilt fabric are then spun very tightly.
With good quality kilt fabric there are very few cut ends sticking out of the fabric to scratch. Most people have very little feeling of scratchy with kilt wool.

The second is a true sensitivity to lanolin. You will know this because you will be sensitive to all lanolin not just that in wool. Many shampoos and conditioners have lanolin as do almost all hand creams. If you have a true sensitivity to lanolin you will not be able to use hand creams. If you can use hand creams then the chance you have a sensitivity to lanolin is very slim.

Third is a sensitivity to the chemicals that the wool was treated with during the fabric manufacture. The wool is cleaned, bleached and dyed using many different chemicals. This is actually the most common cause of what some people think is a sensitivity to wool.

Wool is like hair, it is a totally natural substance. It has been used and worn by people for many thousands of years. Very, very few people have an actual allergy to wool. In the vast majority of cases it is something on the wool or something the wool was treated with that is causing the problem.

In the case of kilt fabric woven of wool the only thing you can do is to get a sample of the fabric from the same weaver who will produce your kilt fabric. Preferable in the same Tartan as some dyes consist of different chemical compositions. Put this sample next to your skin for at least 10 min. If there is no physical reaction such as a rash you should be fine.

If however you 'feel' that the fabric is itchy then that is probably a subjective thing and you may be more comfortable choosing to forgo wool for a kilt.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Personally, I don't care for synthetic tartans. They just don't seem to have the feel, look and longevity that a real wool tartan has. On the other hand, while not allergic to wool, I do find most of it rather scratchy. For a kilt, the cotton liner does a good job of shielding you from the upper portion, and it seems to me that the obvious solution for the mid and lower portions is simply to wear something under it. I usually wear either a pair of light stretch running shorts or long UnderArmor wicking briefs under my kilts (the same way most of the guys in the heavy athletics at the highland games do). Problem solved. I can have my rich wool tartans without any wool scratchiness. My wife also finds it a bit more refined than the idea of going commando, which she thinks is kind of gross. I'm old enough that I don't need to prove to myself or anyone else how theoretically "macho" I am by going regimental, my kilts stay cleaner and everything works out just fine.



Looks like a guy in a kilt to me, and I don't think anybody with any class would worry about what's under it.

[RSHAW]

Very well said!

[unixken]

The first is a contact dermatitis caused by the cut ends of the wool 'hairs'. In some woolen fabrics these ends stick out sideways and can 'poke' your skin. This is the itchy or scratchy feeling some report.

Think "your father's old army blanket."

Kilt wool is 'Worsted" which means the wool fibers are straightened and laid parallel prior to spinning in to yarn. The yarns for kilt fabric are then spun very tightly.
With good quality kilt fabric there are very few cut ends sticking out of the fabric to scratch. Most people have very little feeling of scratchy with kilt wool.

My wool kilts, from Lochcarron and D.C. Dalgliesh, are the softest wool I've ever felt. They have given me a great appreciation for a high quality worsted wool.

Prior to buying my first wool kilt the only "exposure" I'd had to wool was either cheaply made sweaters (which can be ridiculously "itchy"), or military surplus blankets used for camping. I was stunned and very very pleased by how soft to the skin, my kilt fabrics are. (Though I confess a friend owns a sheep farm and makes very soft wool blankets, and I now use one of them nightly, as well!)

[ForresterModern]

As much as this may rankle a few traditionalists in the rabble, I would recommend wearing a pair of comfortable boxer briefs (briefs like tightie whitey except with form fitting legs of varying lengths, available in varying colors) under a good quality wool kilt. Pick the right color and length for the briefs and they will not be visible in regular wear, and between them and your tucked in shirt beneath the waist band areas your skin should be virtually free from contact with any wool from the kilt, except maybe a little bit above the knees from sitting down and in the back of the knees from quality pleat swing while striding. otherwise the wool will really not be against you skin, certainly not with much pressure or rubbing.

Check your closet for dress suits that likely have some wool in them (no tweeds) as that is the ultimate form of worsted wool that is similar to that found in quality kilt fabric. If those wool jackets and/or unlined pants do not cause you skin problems, then a wool kilt should not either.

Although there is a lot of talk about "the question" and "going regimental" I do not honestly think anybody with half a brain would give you any grief if your undergarments were discovered. I will be the first to admit that I do not wear a kilt without wearing a pair of boxer briefs in medium to long leg length in a dark colored , skin colored, or colored similar to the dominant color in the kilt (i.e. I don't wear bright Kelly green undies with my Ancient Red Douglas tank). It also helps keep your modesty intact in situations where you are obliged to bend over to pick something up (or curtsy like a lady), in windy conditions, when climbing open staircases where your nether-regions may be visible from below, or when you happen to be interacting with children (and others may have some concerns about inadvertent exposure or, worse, intentional flashing).

Personally I would not worry about problems with the wool, that's all I am saying.