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casting pewter

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  • 22nd April 08, 03:41 PM
    scotchmaster
    casting pewter
    looking for some advise on casting pewter for a sgian dubh hilt.
  • 22nd April 08, 05:08 PM
    Piper
    I frequently use lead free pewter for the bolsters and pommels on sgians dubh. It melts at a temperature not much higher than lead. I melt it over a small propane stove, and use the same type of ladle that I use for casting round ball for my muzzleloaders. Different ladle though, to avoid cross contamination. I also use the pewter for toy soldiers and wouldn't want to worry about kids and lead.
    I make a collar from stiff paper (file folders work well) and masking tape. The metal cools quickly enough that it doesn't burn through. I've heard of people using strips cut from soda cans, think I'm going to try that next time. I also generally make a keyhole cutout in the hilt and flux the area of the blade adjacent to the hilt to make sure the pewter gets a good grip on both the hilt and the blade.
    Once it cools, it's just a matter of careful work with files and abrasive paper to get the finish you want.
    Hope this has been of help.
  • 22nd April 08, 06:07 PM
    O'Neille
  • 24th April 08, 04:03 PM
    scotchmaster
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Piper View Post
    I frequently use lead free pewter for the bolsters and pommels on sgians dubh. It melts at a temperature not much higher than lead. I melt it over a small propane stove, and use the same type of ladle that I use for casting round ball for my muzzleloaders. Different ladle though, to avoid cross contamination. I also use the pewter for toy soldiers and wouldn't want to worry about kids and lead.
    I make a collar from stiff paper (file folders work well) and masking tape. The metal cools quickly enough that it doesn't burn through. I've heard of people using strips cut from soda cans, think I'm going to try that next time. I also generally make a keyhole cutout in the hilt and flux the area of the blade adjacent to the hilt to make sure the pewter gets a good grip on both the hilt and the blade.
    Once it cools, it's just a matter of careful work with files and abrasive paper to get the finish you want.
    Hope this has been of help.

    Cheers! I did exactly what you described and it worked brilliantly.

    Cheers!

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