Regimental weight box pleats?

[Kid Cossack]

Gents:

I am in serious jonesing mode now. I am in receipt of a FedEx tracking number for my charcoal tweed four yard box pleated kilt from Matt Newsome, and I have the jonesy-jones real bad.

So I've been thinking about box pleated kilts more. As we know, a box pleated kilt uses less material than a knife pleated kilt (generally speaking). Less material (and better "balance" front to rear") seems to imply to me that you could use heavier material, and STILL have a lighter kilt.

So, here's the question. The tweed kilt Matt made for me is, I believe, sixteen ounce, but has anyone made a box pleated kilt out of "regimental-weight" wool? I.e., 20 or 22 ounce wool? It would seem that it would work, but then a lot of things that seem so to me "ain't necessarily so."

Comments?

[Tattoo Bradley]

I'm VERY glad your kilt is complete. I'm ecstatic! Why? Might you ask. Because that mean's he's one kilt closer to starting on MY box pleat kilt!!! Seriously, congrats. I don't have any info to offer on the regimental weight box pleats.

[O'Neille]

It should be great, Anything you can make a knife pleat kilt w/ should work well for a box w/in reason. I just might have to track some down and sew one up. I've got a Gordon Highlanders Regimental kilt and I think it would make a great box pleated kilt. O'Neille

[Dirk Skene]

I'm VERY glad your kilt is complete. I'm ecstatic! Why? Might you ask. Because that mean's he's one kilt closer to starting on MY box pleat kilt!!! ..... .

Now that's a bit selfish :rolleyes:

I'd feel the same way

[switchblade5984]

hahaha! hey at least the man is honest!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Lee,

Your charcoal kilt is actually 13 oz, but because it's a tweed, rather than a worsted wool, it's going to feel "thicker" than standard 13 oz worsted.

But to answer your question about regimental weight cloth, I've made a few box pelated kilts from 18 oz regimental weight (which is the weight it's made in these days) and it does absolutely beautifully! I think a few members of this board actually have regimental weight kilts I've made for them.

I can get regimental weight cloth in Gordon, Hunting Stewart, Royal Stewart, MacKenzie, and Cameron of Erracht, and it's priced the same as "rare select" heavy weight, which means $375 for a kilt for an average sized man.

Aye,
Matt

[Kid Cossack]

Ha ha! Just kidding. The only thing you got wrong was my name---it's Lewis vice Lee.

Since I have the jones so bad, and since I'm still a (theoretical) fan of the box pleated kilt, I would like to ask a couple more questions. (The reason I posted this, instead of sending you a PM, was to "spread the word" so to speak.)

From one of the links on your "tartans and tweeds" page, I see that some tweed is available in 19/20 ounce weight. Would this be suitable for a kilt?

Second, how great is the difference between a 16 ounce and an 18 ounce tartan wool? (Easy answer: "Two ounces!") Reason being, I'm pretty sure that I'll be ordering another box pleated kilt. I'm slowly evolving in my appreciation of the kilt, and I'm planning on stepping up to a higher grade of kilt. I'm torn---I like the idea of a regimental weight box pleated kilt, but there are some other tartans that just DEMAND that I buy them, like the Leatherneck, and Scotland Forever. (For some reason, the violet/purple just leaps out at me.)

Oooooh, I did just look at the Cameron of Erracht, and that's a mighty tempting tartan too!

As we stand or sit now, what's the approximate lead time on one of your kilts? I've got a feeling I might as well get right back in line.

Please to note, fellow X-markers----my queries and thoughts are directed mostly at Matt Newsome, but ye are all welcome to jump in with thoughts, jeers and huzzahs as you fancy.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

From one of the links on your "tartans and tweeds" page, I see that some tweed is available in 19/20 ounce weight. Would this be suitable for a kilt?

Yes, very suitable!

Second, how great is the difference between a 16 ounce and an 18 ounce tartan wool? (Easy answer: "Two ounces!")

The short answer is that they both make very excellent kilts, especially so (in my opinion) in a box pleated four yarder. Both have good weight, good hang, hold a pleat well, and will last forever. I wouldn't hesitate buying a kilt in either weight.

In addition to the two onces per yard of extra weight, there is one other difference between regimental weight and standard heavy kilt weight. Regimental cloth is woven with a worsted weft and a saxony warp (or vice versa, I can never remember) which is why regimental kilts always have a softer, "fuzzier" feel than the usual worsted wool. So there will be a textural difference between the two kilts as well.

Like I said, they both make fine kilts. If the tartan you want is available in either weight (like Cameron of Erracht, for example), my personal preference would be to go ahead and get the regimental weight. Otherwise, have no hesitation about getting the standard 16 oz worsted. It's really great stuff.

Oh, and my turn around time at the moment is going to be at least 12 weeks.

Aye,
Matt

[g koch]

I've got one of Matt's 4 yder's in the 18oz Hunting Stewart. This will be it's second winter.

That weave Matt was talking about gives that extra 2 oz a much more substantial feel than the 16 oz worsted.

Wear it almost exclusively once it gets cool. Just got back from the woods with it.

Still, it would be neat to get some of What Price Glory's 22oz made up into a 4 yder.

[Kid Cossack]

G Koch:

It finally got cold enough (a truly brutal 49 degrees, whee doggies) for me to justify dragging out the WPG 22 oz. Gordon. I'd had it restrapped with straps and buckles from SWK (which I vastly prefer) and ONLY LAST NIGHT did I find myself wishing it was a four yard box pleat, vice an eight yard knife pleat . . .