More measuring... again and "professional" appearance

[yoippari]

Hello again to everyone as it has been a long time since I posted here. Those who remember me might remember I am a bit long winded.

So, I bought a couple of stillwater kilts, an albanach box pleated, and a UK Mocker. I love three out of the four of them due to one stillwater making my butt look big but that was due to the pleats not being stitched down, which I should be able to fix when I decide it's worth it.

My problem is that I mis-measured when I ordered my Albanach. It is the right length when I wear it sans belt because it falls to my hips like a pair of jeans. With a belt it is a bit short and to keep it in place I need to tighten the belt past where the kilt straps say it should be. I don't expect Matt to do anything with the kilt since it was my fault I've had it quite a while and it really is a bit short. That isn't what this is about.

Most measuring guides say to measure just below the naval and not to suck in your gut. Measuring that way I get 36, 35, 42.5 waist, hip, rear. The problem is that in reality I have to wear things tight to get them to stay at my "natural waist". So 32"-33" pants, which measure at 34" (I just measured around the inside) fit perfectly at my "unnatural waist". In fact the belt that I had made fits perfectly at the 34" mark when tightened at naval height. Do I just adjust my measurments when ordering and lie, or do I explain the fit difference and the company/maker should recommend something, or what?

The second question is about finding an appropriate kilt to maybe wear at work. I'd like another kilt anyway but if it will fly at work all the better.
Dress code is:
Black suit or Black suit with thin stripe and any color shirt and tie.
Or black pants with black jacket and any color shirt and tie
Or black pants and black dress shirt or sweater (tie not required)
any color dress shoes

I work at macy's so dealing with big corporation with a well defined dress code (though oregon and washington are the only district with the black only thing) I may be out of luck. We do get away with a bit like charcoal pants, I only have a charcoal suit, and vests instead of suits most days.

I think that a straight black or dark charcoal is my best bet and wool is definitely preferable to synthetic. Is there anything that would look right with a standard dress shirt and a dark vest or MAYBE a matching jacket.

[TheBlueCow]

About your measuring question, my advice is that you should measure as to how you are going to wear it. So if you're measuring at 35" waist and it's not tight enough for you, then measure yourself as tightly as you are going to wear the garment. This way you get the fit you want. I often measure below traditional waist/true waist because I don't like how little of my torso would show if my kilt went up to my ribs! How or where you measure is how and where your kilt will fit, so measure it how you want it to fit!

As for wearing the kilt at work, with your dress code and them preferring the black/dark scheme, you can possibly get away with a dark Black Watch if you want a tartan. Otherwise you could go with a solid black (traditional) kilt. I would definitely go with a PV or wool kilt. I don't think a UK Mocker is something Macy's would have in mind, but I haven't seen how it looks "dressed up".

[ForresterModern]

Black on black theme? Black barathea crail or argyll jacket
(horn buttons instead of silver) or dark charcoal tweed (with or without waistcoat---I think with looks classier and more traditional). Wear that over a heavyweght tank of either black shadow tartan, dark isle tartan, or black isle tartan, all of which are basic black with the tartan in very and to slightly less black threads in parts of the tartan (black isle), different thread patterns and sheens (dark isle and black shadow). All look very classy and follow your black on black requirement, and all can be dressed up with shirts and ties and hose in various different combos rather than just plain black and white so you don't have to look like scottish "Men in Black". If you can get away with wearing the kilt in lieu of pants these should do nicely.

Unfortunately I am at work and cannot post from photobucket but will post a photo of a well lit view of my kilt in Black Isle from Marton Mills 16 oz fabric later this afternoon when I get home. Search for Shadow tartan or Dark Isle on xmts or other web sites to see what they look like for comparison.

[turpin]

Most makers of traditional kilts have you measure at your natural waist, usually at or slightly above the navel. As you measured below your navel, the maker used that as the waist point and you ended up with a shorter kilt. A good check with a new kiltmaker is to also give them the totla length measurement of a kilt that fits you well (if you have one) as a go-by for the measurements you took using his/her instructions. This helped me avoid getting a too-long kilt recently.

For black, consider a Stillwater heavyweight black shadow tartan.

[Barb T]

I often measure below traditional waist/true waist because I don't like how little of my torso would show if my kilt went up to my ribs! How or where you measure is how and where your kilt will fit, so measure it how you want it to fit!

Whether this is a good idea depends on the type of kilt you're ordering and how it's designed to fit. For example, Steve Ashton offers his contemporary kilts with a choice of "rises", and you can choose where you want your kilt to "ride".

A traditional kilt, on the other hand, is built to ride with the top 2" above the natural waist. A well-made trad kilt tapers from the bottom of the fell at the hips to the center of the top buckle, then flares toward the top of the kilt. That allows you to buckle the kilt tightly at the true waist and not have it slip down. If you wear such a kilt too low, it just doesn't fit right. The taper and the flare are just not in the right places. It will look funny and feel funny.

If you want to see people wearing trad kilts properly, see the post that McMurdo and Panache collaborated on recently ("1 kilt, 10 looks", link below). They show how a kilt should be properly worn. There's not "a lot of torso" showing, and this is exactly how a trad kilt should be worn.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/1...888/index.html

Bottom line - it you want a lot of torso to show above the top of your kilt, then you don't want a trad kilt. It's not meant to show lots of torso above the top edge. The _center_ of your kilt belt buckle rides at your true waist (which is at least as high as your navel, if not somewhat above). That's just the design of the garment. It's designed that way because it was traditionally worn with a short jacket, and the rise on a modern kilt is actually at least an inch shorter than early 20th century kilts (look at WWI kilts, and you'll see a rise of 3-4" above the waist).

And don't try to second-guess a kiltmaker's measuring instructions!

[fluter]

SWK's black shadow tartan looks very sharp. It ought to fit in well with black hose, black shoes, and a black jacket or vest. IF it works out, you could order a hand-made kilt in one of the "nicer" shadow tartans, or sound out management about subdued tartans (Black Watch modern?).

Always follow your kiltmaker's measuring instructions. Find out whether they're asking you for the drop or the total length. It makes a huge (2 inch) difference!

or do I explain the fit difference and the company/maker should recommend something, or what?

You have the idea: talk to your kilt maker!

[David H]

What don't you look into the Northumberland Tartan? Sounds like this tartan would fit perfectly into the black and white theme the company has laid out.

[The Barry]

I would be a bit weary of wearing a black shadow tartan with black hose, black jacket, etc.

People might start asking you when and where the wake is.

[The Wizard of BC]

There are quite a few options available for a Black Kilt to conform with your Dress Code.
The Black on Black Tartans have been discussed. The Ben Dubh is my favorite. 13 oz. Wool and very smart looking.

But if you want a Kilt more like a good pair of slacks may I offer my Casual Model Kilt as a good alternative.

One of my Stock Black fabrics is a 65% Cotton/35% Polyester blend that resists wrinkling well and looks good right out of the dryer.

The Casual Model can be made to fit you at the waist height you specify. Full Rise, at the natural Waist. Or where the Waistband cinches into the hollow at the Kidneys.
Mid Rise, where the Waistband rides on top of the Hip Bones.
Or Low Rise, where the Waistband goes down over the Hip Bones, or where Blue Jeans fit.

Think of the Casual Model as the "Dockers" of Kilts. When outfitted with a pair of Side Slash Pockets and one or two Rear Welt Pockets this Kilt is suitable anywhere slacks would be appropriate.


If you would like more information you can phone, email, or Skype me and we can discuss what you need.

[Rex_Tremende]

So 32"-33" pants, which measure at 34" (I just measured around the inside) fit perfectly at my "unnatural waist".

I think it's rather not a good idea to provide measurements taken from other garments to write the specs for a kilt - the exception being perhaps the length of one kilt compared to a desired length. You should measure your body in the places where the kiltmaker instructs you to.

I work at macy's so dealing with big corporation with a well defined dress code (though oregon and washington are the only district with the black only thing) I may be out of luck.

Not quite the only places. Here in Cincinnati, home of Macy's headquarters, the retail staff wear black.

Regards,
Rex.