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6th September 09, 08:18 PM
#1
plotting the next kilt
I let slip in another thread that I'm planning my next kilt design. Since it doesn't have much to do with what the thread is supposed to be about, I've started a new one. This kilt is a few things down my sewing pile, and several things down my "round tuit" pile. So it'll be a while before I actually do much more than sketch.
 Originally Posted by Pleater
Oh! Interesting - it has a yoke at the top rather than shaped fell - normal for women's pleated garments - it saves a lot of fiddling about, time, exasperation and fabric too.
I might try that with some nice but narrow fabric - but I'd do the yoke double, to enclose the top edge completely.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
 Originally Posted by vorpallemur
I'm working on a pattern to do this for my next kilt. (I'm drafting an actual pattern for this one. Doubled, with a split at the center back back (so the yoke is four pieces), continuing around and tapering to the just-forward-of-the-side side seams, where the front pocket openings will be. I'm rather unlikely to work in lightweight nylon, though!
 Originally Posted by Ted Crocker
How wide would this yoke be?
My plan is for it to be about four inches at the center back, tapering to about one inch at the side-seam. (Which, for slash pockets to work properly, actually needs to be a bit forward of the sides. ) That, plus the waistband, and having the kilt at the low waist (where most modern dressy pants sit, higher than Levi's, below the true waist), means that much of the tapering that needs to happen from the hips to the waist band is in yoke, and not the pleats. That's a bit easier to make (requires more pattern drafting than tapered kilt, but less work in building), and can save a bunch of fabric, depending.
I've got this piece of green-black denim fabric that's just perfect for a fall kilt, which is part of my thinking for this.

It's really green in that picture (it's on top of my black Utilikilt(TM) mocker). It's a dark green warp, with black weft. I thought it was black when I bought it, and when I looked at it in daylight, I saw it was green. It was silly cheap, though, so it's okay (it was on sale, and it's flawed, so it was discounted further (the flaw is a stain that rinsed out on the part I checked)). There's not quite enough with the flaws to do a kilt to the pattern of the duck kilt I did a while ago. (which I really like, though it's bit heavy. Might like it better when it cools down.) So, if the yoke saves a bit of fabric, I'll still get a kilt out of it.
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