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8th January 11, 11:04 PM
#1
Irish Saffron Kilt
In earlier times the Highland Scots and Gaelic Irish had the same national dress. This dress consisted of the "léine", which was a linen tunic almost identical to the Greek "foustanella"; it also had the ionar which was a sort of embroidered waistcoat; and it had the brat which was a fringed wool mantle that could be of any color or design but usually a dark color. As well as I understand it, the difference in dress between Ireland and Highland Scotland began when the Scots began to arrange their "brat" in a pleated toga like fashion over the shoulder. So why do I see this saffron colored "Irish Kilt" for sale as if historically accurate? Wouldn't it make more sense to make a great kilt out of a brat, or a skirt version of the brat like they have in Scotland now?
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8th January 11, 11:26 PM
#2
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8th January 11, 11:28 PM
#3
This is always a big discussion topic! 
But my basic belief is that Saffron kilts started popping up at political and musical gatherings in late 19th and early 20th century Ireland. The kilt was adopted in some circles as a symbol of Irish nationalism and Celtic identity during that period.
So "historically accurate" depends on how far back you go.
Order of the Dandelion, The Houston Area Kilt Society, Bald Rabble in Kilts, Kilted Texas Rabble Rousers, The Flatcap Confederation, Kilted Playtron Group.
"If you’re going to talk the talk, you’ve got to walk the walk"
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9th January 11, 12:30 AM
#4
Ain't no "rules." There's only "is."
I like the feeling of pride I have in my saffron kilt - whether or not it meets arbitrary historic standards or not.
Enjoy the freedom!
Ol' Macdonald himself, a proud son of Skye and Cape Breton Island
Lifetime Member STA. Two time winner of Utilikiltarian of the Month.
"I'll have a kilt please, a nice hand sewn tartan, 16 ounce Strome. Oh, and a sporran on the side, with a strap please."
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9th January 11, 01:06 AM
#5
Hmmm, interesting. I just noticed that, according to Matt Newsome's article on the Leine, the Irish may have worn trews before adopting the Leine. I think that's what I read...
http://www.albanach.org/leine.html
I'll double check.
*
Ya, it's down in the section on "The Book of Kells," right past the part about the leine being what the "aristocracy" wore.
Last edited by Bugbear; 9th January 11 at 01:11 AM.
I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…
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9th January 11, 06:05 AM
#6
Welcome to the forum!
You speak of "historical accuracy." What time period? To be "historically accurate" one needs a particular time period to reference. The clothing you describe would be accurate for the sixteenth century.
So, we have to ask, are those who wear the Irish Saffron kilt attempting to recreate sixteenth century Irish dress? If so, then you are correct, it is not historically accurate.
However, if they are rather participating in modern-day kilt wearing, and not attempting any sort of historical costume, then we must approach things from an entirely different point of view.
You may enjoy this article on the history of Irish kilt wearing.
http://www.scottishtartans.org/irish_kilts.htm
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10th January 11, 09:38 PM
#7
[QUOTE=Bugbear;941117]Hmmm, interesting. I just noticed that, according to Matt Newsome's article on the Leine, the Irish may have worn trews before adopting the Leine. I think that's what I read...
http://www.albanach.org/leine.html
I'll double check.
*
Ya, it's down in the section on "The Book of Kells," right past the part about the leine being what the "aristocracy" wore.[/QUOT
All classes wore a léine which means tunic/shirt, the aristocrats wore a long one, and kerns wore short ones.
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10th January 11, 09:47 PM
#8
 Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome
Welcome to the forum!
You speak of "historical accuracy." What time period? To be "historically accurate" one needs a particular time period to reference. The clothing you describe would be accurate for the sixteenth century.
So, we have to ask, are those who wear the Irish Saffron kilt attempting to recreate sixteenth century Irish dress? If so, then you are correct, it is not historically accurate.
However, if they are rather participating in modern-day kilt wearing, and not attempting any sort of historical costume, then we must approach things from an entirely different point of view.
You may enjoy this article on the history of Irish kilt wearing.
http://www.scottishtartans.org/irish_kilts.htm
Well the kilt is a modern adaptation of the breacanbhrait and not the léine, which has been replaced by the modern collared shirt early on in Scotland. So if there is to be a modern adaptation of the léine then I think it would be more correct to be a full tunic, but if there is to be a transpositioning of the arrange of the brat as a kilt than it why not use the brat in a skirt form with a hanging shoulder piece? The léine as a skirt makes absolutely no sense.
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10th January 11, 10:28 PM
#9

In this painting is Colonel Niall O Neill, a Jacobite veteran of the Battle of the Boyne, wearing a traditional brat with the year given as 1680.
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12th January 11, 05:59 AM
#10
This is another one of Michael Wright's portraits - see that of Lord Mungo Murray in other threads, and cannot be taken as in any way an accurate depiction of contemporary dress. He was renowned for pre-painting heroic type portraits and adding the face of the sitter at a later date. They were a sort of political/cultural statement rather than an attempt to record history.
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