Jacket conversion -- how much leeway in size?

[Tim Little]

I've been "needing" a proper daywear jacket for some time now, and recently stumbled across this gem for a modest price:



It's sized as a 38L, which should be just fine across the chest, but the sleeves might be a bit long. (If anything, I'm on the "S" side of "R".)

I'd plan to ask my mother-in-law -- for whom this would be a first, although she's quite skilled as a seamstress -- to perform the surgery, but wanted to double-check with the experts here to make sure this isn't a bigger deal than I anticipate.

Many thanks in advance!

[piperdbh]

It's not really a big deal. The hardest part will be working around the pockets.

[sydnie7]

Overall it's a pretty easy process. Getting the front cutaway to look good is my biggest challenge. If you have to dodge the lower buttonhole (i.e. cut to outer side of it) the angle can look too abrupt. I posted an example recently here where I think my cutaway is too sharply angled.

Shortening the sleeves slightly should not be an issue until it gets to those sleeve buttons -- then you have to start moving buttons to maintain the distance from lowest button to sleeve hem. The jacket I link to has fake buttonholes under the sleeve buttons, which would further complicate the matter.

It's a lovely jacket and I hope it comes out well for you!

[Cygnus]

Actually, the pockets on that jacket seem plenty high for a kilt jacket conversion; though the actual pocket may need to be shortened slightly, they should still be sufficiently deep to keep things in and not look too close to the lower edge.

As for the angle, I've found when I want to make a good rounded edge on anything, the best thing to do is find a cup, plate, bowl, etc. of the right size and trace around the edge of it to make a perfect curve. While this may still leave the separation of the opening a bit low for your kilt jacket, it should prevent the "sharp-angled" look from which many converted jackets suffer.

Good luck, and I'm anxious to see how it turns out!

[sydnie7]

Actually, the pockets on that jacket seem plenty high for a kilt jacket conversion; though the actual pocket may need to be shortened slightly, they should still be sufficiently deep to keep things in and not look too close to the lower edge.

As for the angle, I've found when I want to make a good rounded edge on anything, the best thing to do is find a cup, plate, bowl, etc. of the right size and trace around the edge of it to make a perfect curve. While this may still leave the separation of the opening a bit low for your kilt jacket, it should prevent the "sharp-angled" look from which many converted jackets suffer.

Good luck, and I'm anxious to see how it turns out!

That's a good method for establishing a curve. The challenge comes when that desired curve intersects the lower/lowest buttonhole. While the pictured 2-button jacket appears to have a lot of "meat" available below the second button, OP's description of himself as "on the S side" implies he may need to have that jacket trimmed up significantly.

All guesswork, of course, but those buttonholes can really get in the way of a nice cutaway! I've toyed with ideas for "reweaving" so that I can cut right through one, but several other projects are ahead of that on the roundtoit list.

[Cygnus]

That's a good method for establishing a curve. The challenge comes when that desired curve intersects the lower/lowest buttonhole. While the pictured 2-button jacket appears to have a lot of "meat" available below the second button, OP's description of himself as "on the S side" implies he may need to have that jacket trimmed up significantly.

All guesswork, of course, but those buttonholes can really get in the way of a nice cutaway! I've toyed with ideas for "reweaving" so that I can cut right through one, but several other projects are ahead of that on the roundtoit list.

Indeed, and my recommendation for the curves could have been a bit clearer.

My thinking on this is that if the second buttonhole cannot be cut away completely without ruining the shape of the jacket (that's what chalk is for - use it before cutting!), then a smaller bowl or glass could be used to make a tighter curve. It might make the front of the jacket a bit low, though hopefully not so low that the sporran is covered by it.

The other point I'd like to make is to not modify the curve (at least not significantly) to accommodate the keeping or removal of the second button - if you can cut the button away with a perfect curve, then do it; if not, have the curve start a bit lower so the button can be kept. The cut of the jacket is, in my opinion, the most important thing.

The only way to find out what will happen with that button is to start marking that jacket!

[Bugbear]

Actually, the pockets on that jacket seem plenty high for a kilt jacket conversion; though the actual pocket may need to be shortened slightly, they should still be sufficiently deep to keep things in and not look too close to the lower edge.

As for the angle, I've found when I want to make a good rounded edge on anything, the best thing to do is find a cup, plate, bowl, etc. of the right size and trace around the edge of it to make a perfect curve. While this may still leave the separation of the opening a bit low for your kilt jacket, it should prevent the "sharp-angled" look from which many converted jackets suffer.

Good luck, and I'm anxious to see how it turns out!

For what it's worth, I used a 9 inch diameter disk to make the curve shapes on my jacket conversion.

[SlackerDrummer]

One of the main concerns of a jacket conversion is that the pockets are about an inch-and-a-half to two inches lower on Saxon jackets than on kilt jackets. If this jacket is a Long, it is not just longer in the arms, but taller in the body as well. These pockets look about where all of my jacket pockets are. If you shorten the sleeves, the pockets will be even lower than on a jacket that fits you to start with.

[Cygnus]

One of the main concerns of a jacket conversion is that the pockets are about an inch-and-a-half to two inches lower on Saxon jackets than on kilt jackets. If this jacket is a Long, it is not just longer in the arms, but taller in the body as well. These pockets look about where all of my jacket pockets are. If you shorten the sleeves, the pockets will be even lower than on a jacket that fits you to start with.

The pockets on this one certainly look high enough not to be much of an issue (assuming the lower edge of the jacket is cut to about 1" higher than the cuff). I hadn't considered the need to shorten the sleeves, though. That may present a bit of a problem...

[auld argonian]

I'd sort of frame it up before I cut...While most "saxon" jackets have the hem of the jacket about two inches below the sleeves. most of the photos that I've seen of jackets that look good (to me, anyway) have the hem just about evven with the sleeves BUT with the pronounced cutaway for the sporran. There was some photo reference kicking around...I'd be careful about going too short on the body; it looks more like a bolero jacket than a kilt jacket when the bod is too sort.

Does anybody else remember bolero jackets? Ole!

Look at some of the threads about trad highland dress before you proceed.

Best

AA