Shortening a heavy leather belt

**cruiser348** · 7th April 12, 12:40 PM

I have a heavy leather oil tanned belt that I would like to wear with my contemporary kilt. The only issue is it's one of the models that's designed to fit between a 30 and 54" waist. This mean that with my 34" waist it looks like I'm a little kid that borrowed daddy's belt with the foot and a half of extra belt. When wearing it as a tool belt it doesn't matter I just tuck the extra in the loop of the tool belt and don't care, but if I'm going to wear it out with my kilt I'd like it to look like it fits properly. What is the best way to cut it giving a crisp edge? It has a stitched edge and what type of thread is generally used for this? I thank the rabble in advance for their help.

**Hachiman** · 7th April 12, 01:05 PM

Hi Cruiser348.

There's a couple of aspects to your question that need to be addressed, so bear with me, ok?

1) Stitching: Typically with leatherwork, a waxed thread is used, however there are several tools that are also required if you wish to replace the lost stitching. Specifically, you would need a diamond-profile stitching awl to make the new hole, a round-profile awl to widen the new hole, a needle (funnily enough) to push/pull the thread through, and if you're as finnicky as I am, you'll want a stitching wheel to measure out the spacing for the holes so that they're evenly spaced. So far I've outlined about $60 if you were to purchase all this from Tandy Leather Factory. You may instead wish to seek a cobbler and see if they'll do the work for you.

2) a clean edge: Any very sharp knife will do the job, although you'll want one with a strong blade. If you're not interested in doing lots of leatherwork, a Stanley utility knife from Home Depot will do the job nicely and can be added to your toolkit for use in other jobs once you're finished altering your belt. I would recommend that you mark where you want to cut and use a straight edge (if you want a straight line) rather than "eye-balling" it. I can speak from experience that "eye-balling" never works out very well. If you want a curved edge, make sure you use something to trace around, and then use your Stanley knife to cut the leather. Also, make several passes. Don't try to cut it off in one go, 'cause you'll inevitably make a mistake and either cut off leather you wanted to keep, or -worse still - cut yourself! Just carefully trace the line with your knife, and then go back through the groove again and again, until you've cut through the belt.

3) finishing the appearance: Look at the edge of the belt as it is now. Is the edge rounded or square? If it's rounded and shiny, you may wish to "burnish" the leather after you've cut it. That is, take a very fine amount off the corner of your cut, and then wet the newly cut leather. While its still wet, take some stiff cloth (eg: denim, canvas, etc) and rapidly rub the wet edge of the leather along the newly cut edge. Done right, this will cause the edge to become smooth and slightly glossy, which is what leatherworkers call "burnished". It can make your work look a little more professional.

If all my rambling above sounds like I'm talking Greek, you could always seek a leatherworker to do the job for you. I'm in PA, so if you exhaust all your resources and still want it done, drop me a line and we'll see what can be done.

regards
Hachiman

**Nighthawk** · 7th April 12, 01:52 PM

Hachiman- seconded! Altering a belt and doing a good job of it is no easy task, if you don't know what you're doing. There are plenty of leatherworkers- myself included- on this board who would be more than happy to lend you a hand.

By the way, Hachiman- do you have a website with pictures of your work? I'd love to see it.

**Elf** · 7th April 12, 02:01 PM

Two thoughts come to my mind; 1: If you are cutting from the end with holes, typically the center hole is where you want it now. Measure from tang to hole for your waiste measurement. Then measure two holes smaller and larger. Use low tack tape and mark with a ruler to get them precise. Then punch through the tape. Then take your tape off and all evidence that you measured so precisely. 2: Most Tandy leather shops are eager to give advice. They often even have class times. Seeing is so much clearer than the proverbial thousand words. Good luck.

**Hachiman** · 7th April 12, 02:14 PM

Hi Nighthawk

Bearing in mind that most of my leatherwork these days goes towards my medieval re-enactment (and that I'm re-building my leatherworking kit after moving to the US from Australia), you can see some of my work on my blog:

http://thefencingfox.blogspot.com/

I used to have images of a sporran I made here on X-Marks, but with the new format it appears that the images have been lost. I will see what I can do to get some pics together and re-post them if anyone is interested.

regards

Hachiman

**Connaughton** · 7th April 12, 02:53 PM

If I am understanding your question, then I had a similar problem. Took it to my local shoe repair. They took it apart at the buckle and did the work there. This will keep the work hidden, below the tongue, when you wear the belt. It will never be seen. Nor will anyone ever know. Belts cut at the tongue, that which is the visible end when worn, often look odd, especially if you have any tooling or the new cut is a different color from the other edges. But my opinion could be wrong.

**Hachiman** · 7th April 12, 02:55 PM

D'oh!!! Connaughton is right!!! That is a FAR better approach!!

Hachiman

**unixken** · 7th April 12, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by Connaughton

If I am understanding your question, then I had a similar problem. Took it to my local shoe repair. They took it apart at the buckle and did the work there. This will keep the work hidden, below the tongue, when you wear the belt. It will never be seen. Nor will anyone ever know. Belts cut at the tongue, that which is the visible end when worn, often look odd, especially if you have any tooling or the new cut is a different color from the other edges. But my opinion could be wrong.

Isn't it funny how we tend to over-think a problem, and then such a brilliantly simple solution is presented! Excellent idea!

**Nighthawk** · 7th April 12, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by Connaughton

If I am understanding your question, then I had a similar problem. Took it to my local shoe repair. They took it apart at the buckle and did the work there. This will keep the work hidden, below the tongue, when you wear the belt. It will never be seen. Nor will anyone ever know. Belts cut at the tongue, that which is the visible end when worn, often look odd, especially if you have any tooling or the new cut is a different color from the other edges. But my opinion could be wrong.

Don't know why I didn't think of that... That's how we size belts at the faires and festivals.

So- cruiser348, I still burnish even that ends that don't get seen. I like the idea that the edges are still moisture sealed. If you're interested, I have a tutorial on FaceBook. It's here if you're interested:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...9169454&type=3

**cruiser348** · 7th April 12, 05:46 PM

Thanks for the responses. I have a few of the tools that you mentioned so that will keep the cost on that part down. This belt actually has sizing holes along almost the entire length so that cuts out the need to redo those. I have actually considered trying my hand at leatherwork since I have been forced to give up woodworking since moving I moved into an apartment. Figured this might not be a bad first projects since I have vary little money into the belt itself.
I hadn't even considered starting at the buckle end. Just another reason why I came here for advice from the start.