Size up from St. Kilda?

**Silmakhor** · 24th January 23, 09:07 AM

Considering a tweed jacket order.

I normally wear a size 44r. At the USAkilts site, it's recommended to size up (for me, to a 46). I also tried a jacket at a store in my state and found the 46 to fit better.

Would it be smart to size up an order from St. Kilda ?

Any info appreciated.

**Vikingnephilim** · 24th January 23, 02:00 PM

I would say spend the little bit extra and get a made to measure. Doesn't cost that much extra, but you'll know it is made to your spec.

**OC Richard** · 26th January 23, 05:44 AM

The best thing with any maker is to try on jackets they've made, find the size that fits you, and order that.

Made-to-measure is fraught with problems because each maker has different ways of interpreting measurements. Sometimes it's worse to give a maker too much information, if you don't know how they will interpret it.

I had a horrible experience purchasing a jacket directly from St Kilda.

I know better! What I should have done is bought an off-the-peg jacket and saw how it fit BEFORE ordering a bespoke jacket.

But no, like a newbie I ordered a Standard Size jacket and even then they made a mess of the sizing.

I know my size. I've bought numerous vintage and new jackets over the years and whether from House of Edgar or Geoffrey Tailor or anyone else the same size always fits fine.

But like an idiot when I filled out the form I stated my height. I know better! Because when I've ordered waistcoats from J Higgins, if I state my actual height they send me a vest that's far too long, so I have to state a shorter height than I am.

So, even though I ordered a 50, St Kilda made it a 50 Long. Yes they changed the size without asking.

When I contacted Alister Dunn he refused to do anything about it.

I should say it wasn't only that. They made the jacket enormous in the body. Their own size chart says the jacket should have a 46 inch waist (which is in line with the other makers I know about) but my jacket came with a 54 inch waist. Yes they added 8 inches for no reason whatever.

So now, after 3 trips to my local tailor to have the body taken in and shortened, the jacket almost looks right.

But the tailor says that he can't fix the odd bagginess around the shoulders, which no jacket from any maker from any time period has been like.

I'm 100% sure that if I had bought an off-the-peg size 50 jacket it would have been fine.

**Jock Scot** · 26th January 23, 06:37 AM

Personally I would NEVER purchase any bespoke clothing without being measured by the tailor who is going to make it and going for fittings during the process.To do otherwise, is pure folly in my humble opinion.

**Tobus** · 26th January 23, 07:10 AM

As I recall, the reason many vendors such as USA Kilts recommend sizing up is not because the correct size won't fit you properly. It's because Americans are not used to wearing waistcoats and jackets like they do in the UK, where they fit much more snugly. Americans prefer the "potato sack" fit, apparently, with extra room in the chest, shoulders that are much too wide, and sleeves that cover their knuckles. So instead of having people order the correct size and then complaining that it's too tight, they just tell people to size up.

So the real question is whether you want your jacket to fit closely or loosely. Obviously, there will be some variation in fit between makers, but the sizing-up issue shouldn't be done if you want a proper fit. There should be enough ease in the design based on your chest measurement. If you want a loose/sloppy fit, then size up, but I dare say it will not look as good as wearing the correct size for your chest.

**Silmakhor** · 26th January 23, 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

The best thing with any maker is to try on jackets they've made, find the size that fits you, and order that.

I know better! What I should have done is bought an off-the-peg jacket and saw how it fit BEFORE ordering a bespoke jacket.

[snip]
I'm 100% sure that if I had bought an off-the-peg size 50 jacket it would have been fine.

That's a sensible strategy. I tried a jacket on locally (ish) and it fit fine in a 46. So the idea is to find a different, cheaper vendor online for the same item.

**Kitfoxdave** · 26th January 23, 09:11 PM

I bought a 50 long tweed argyl from St kilda on clearance, fits decent may have my daughter work her tailor magic on it. When I order from Europe I go up one size, usually works out great.

**kilted2000** · 26th January 23, 10:06 PM

I ordered a tweed jacket and waistcoat/vest from St. Kilda last year made to measure. It seems to fit well enough.

**jthk** · 27th January 23, 05:20 AM

My usual chest measurement comes in at 40 in. I have a waistcoat/jacket from Gaelic Themes (via USAK) and it's a 42 -- according to USAK, that should fit fine but it's too big. So, ignoring their "size-up" instructions, I ordered my typical size of a 40 in chest. That fits fine.

Guluck,
Jonathan

Originally Posted by Tobus

As I recall, the reason many vendors such as USA Kilts recommend sizing up is not because the correct size won't fit you properly. It's because Americans are not used to wearing waistcoats and jackets like they do in the UK, where they fit much more snugly. Americans prefer the "potato sack" fit, apparently, with extra room in the chest, shoulders that are much too wide, and sleeves that cover their knuckles. So instead of having people order the correct size and then complaining that it's too tight, they just tell people to size up.

So the real question is whether you want your jacket to fit closely or loosely. Obviously, there will be some variation in fit between makers, but the sizing-up issue shouldn't be done if you want a proper fit. There should be enough ease in the design based on your chest measurement. If you want a loose/sloppy fit, then size up, but I dare say it will not look as good as wearing the correct size for your chest.

**OC Richard** · 27th January 23, 05:51 AM

I too generally find that UK made jackets fit fine, no "size up" needed.

By the way, for those that aren't aware the firm the St Kilda Group includes Gaelic Themes, RG Hardie, Peter Henderson, and I'm not sure what else.

What I didn't mention in my post above is that I do believe I would have had a better experience had I ordered through USAKilts rather than directly from St Kilda/Gaelic Themes.

It's often helpful to have a filter so to speak, someone who knows how the maker operates and what sort of information the maker does, and doesn't, require.