How to attach the Newsome-style left-hand strap?

[sydnie7]

I'm lying awake nights, finishing off the "MacWerner Watch" kilt in my mind (while I slowly stitch pleats during the day). I've gotten to the point where I attach the left-hand buckle to the front apron and the strap to the rear pleat stabilizer/canvas, a la Matt Newsome's style shown here.

My question may arise from differences between box- and knife-pleat construction. I'm making a knife-pleat, and by the time buckles and straps are going on, the stabilizer and canvas will have been thoroughly tacked to the underside of the pleats. Do you just take a lot of care that, while firmly stitching the strap to the canvas, none of your stitches catch on the outermost layer of wool?

The only buckle/strap set I've purchased for kiltmaking had kind of an X-pattern of holes in the leather (for stitching through). I'm thinking it would be better to have holes all around the far (non-buckling) end of the leather strap, and do a lot of whip-stitching around all three sides of that end.

Any insight or tips to be shared here?

[Alan H]

I'm lying awake nights, finishing off the "MacWerner Watch" kilt in my mind (while I slowly stitch pleats during the day). I've gotten to the point where I attach the left-hand buckle to the front apron and the strap to the rear pleat stabilizer/canvas, a la Matt Newsome's style shown here.

Do you just take a lot of care that, while firmly stitching the strap to the canvas, none of your stitches catch on the outermost layer of wool?

Yes, that's exactly what I do.

The only buckle/strap set I've purchased for kiltmaking had kind of an X-pattern of holes in the leather (for stitching through). I'm thinking it would be better to have holes all around the far (non-buckling) end of the leather strap, and do a lot of whip-stitching around all three sides of that end.

I've bought buckles and straps from Stillwater kilts and they were fine, but what I did a while ago was buy some tanned leather....basically a belt blank, and some black leather dye and buckles from Tandy Leather. They sell online, but I'm lucky in that there's a store not too far away from me.

I use a razor blade/box cutter and a straightedge to cut out the strap to the width I want, and then a handheld rotating-head leather punch to punch the buckle tang holes. Then I cut the leading edge of the belt in a "v" shape to make it easier to thread through the buckle. Then I put the leather punch on the next-to-the-smallest hole setting and put

about 8 small holes, about 1/4 inch apart, all around the bottom inch or so of the strap. I use those holes to hand-sew....with black carpet thread, not "regular" thread.... the strap through as many layers of the kilt, just under the waistband as I can without having stitches show on the outside. The thread goes through the holes in the leather, instead of my trying to drive the needle through the leather. The carpet thread is pretty heavy-duty, and so far I've never worn out or pulled out a strap. BAsically, the strap is sewn to every layer in the kilt at that point....overlapping pleats, liner, whatever, except the very outermost layer of tartan.

Any insight or tips to be shared here?

Hope that helps!

[ardchoille]

It kind of looks like, from that photo you linked, that the left strap is secured under a portion of the lining. I'll have to research this too as I'm planning on doing this with my box pleated kilts.

[ardchoille]

I've bought buckles and straps from Stillwater kilts and they were fine, but what I did a while ago was buy some tanned leather....basically a belt blank, and some black leather dye and buckles from Tandy Leather. They sell online, but I'm lucky in that there's a store not too far away from me.

I use a razor blade/box cutter and a straightedge to cut out the strap to the width I want, and then a handheld rotating-head leather punch to punch the buckle tang holes. Then I cut the leading edge of the belt in a "v" shape to make it easier to thread through the buckle. Then I put the leather punch on the next-to-the-smallest hole setting and put

about 8 small holes, about 1/4 inch apart, all around the bottom inch or so of the strap. I use those holes to hand-sew....with black carpet thread, not "regular" thread.... the strap through as many layers of the kilt, just under the waistband as I can without having stitches show on the outside. The thread goes through the holes in the leather, instead of my trying to drive the needle through the leather. The carpet thread is pretty heavy-duty, and so far I've never worn out or pulled out a strap.

Alan, thank you for this idea. I do a lot of shopping at the Tandy store near me and I like the idea of making my own straps.

[sydnie7]

Thanks, Alan! That's pretty much what I had envisioned, but sometimes my vision is skewed

There's a Tandy store not too far from me, too. . . I've just been resisting going there, as I KNOW it will turn into a $200 trip. . . I have some old leather-working tools of my father's, will have to drag that box out and see what goodies lurk within.

ardchoille: Doesn't look to me as if it's under the lining. I think the lining is pulling away a bit as the kilt is held out for photo purposes.

[ardchoille]

ardchoille: Doesn't look to me as if it's under the lining. I think the lining is pulling away a bit as the kilt is held out for photo purposes.

Ok, that must be what I'm seeing.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I'm making a knife-pleat, and by the time buckles and straps are going on, the stabilizer and canvas will have been thoroughly tacked to the underside of the pleats. Do you just take a lot of care that, while firmly stitching the strap to the canvas, none of your stitches catch on the outermost layer of wool?

The only buckle/strap set I've purchased for kiltmaking had kind of an X-pattern of holes in the leather (for stitching through). I'm thinking it would be better to have holes all around the far (non-buckling) end of the leather strap, and do a lot of whip-stitching around all three sides of that end.

That is exactly correct, on both counts. That is just what I do.

When stitching, the key is to ensure that your stitches go through the canvas, but NOT out through to the outside of the kilt.

[sydnie7]

Thanks, Matt. Has anyone tried this using a small curved needle (upholstery needle) or are you able to control the process better with straight needle?

[Carolina Kiltman]

While I have not sewn a kilt (yet) I have sewn a fair amount of leather. I have found that a harness maker's needle (awl) is a good investment. The needle is like a heavy duty sewing machine needle, with the eye near the point. There is a bobbin which hold the thread (between the needle and the handle). For leather, push the needle through, pull up a goodly amount of thread so you have a loose end, then you push the needle through, pass the end of the thread through the loop formed, pull the needle back out and pull the thread tight. Pre drilling or punching the holes ensures that the stitching will be even. Hope this helps.

[sydnie7]

Just finished my first installation of this style strap and made one mis-step that I will pass along in hopes that others might avoid it. Not really a "mistake" or I'd have fixed it

I made a loop and attached buckle to edge of underapron much the way that outer buckle is attached. But I did this before lining the underapron. In retrospect, I'd have waited and stitched in BOTH the buckle and strap after applying kilt lining.

Here's my inner buckle sewn in prior to lining. I then found it difficult to neatly sew the lining underneath the buckle (it's laying cattywhampus in this photo, but correct orientation is easily determined when you are holding all the bits together in your hands).

Other than that, it went in like a charm and seems to be working beautifully. Thanks again to the originator and supporting cast!