Question about sleeve length

[Dunlop]

image.jpgMy first jacket arrived today. It's awesome! I bought an ex hire one, but after I placed my order they didn't have one in my size, so they sent me a brand new one. I got a 40 L, and it still seems a bit short in the sleeve length. My American suit jackets show about 1/4" of shirt cuff. This shows 1.5". I have been looking at google images and some show almost no cuff at all, while others show quite a bit. Is there a standard that I should know about?
Here is a pic of what it looks like.

[Jock Scot]

I think by any standard the sleeves are too short, by a good margin and by the look of the "body" of the jacket, that may be too short too. Just so you know Kilt jackets, particularly bespoke ones often have slightly longer sleeves than many might consider necessary. To quote a Highland tailor of repute, long gone now, "who wants wet shirt cuffs?".

[The Wizard of BC]

This question about sleeve length comes up all the time here in my shop when fitting guys for jackets.

When I was young I was taught that the sleeve of a jacket should come between the second and third knuckle of the thumb. Or 1/2" to 1" below the bend of the wrist. I was taught that when the arm is down at a relaxed position there should be no shirt sleeve showing.
Only when you raise your arm to shoulder height should you see shirt sleeve and then only enough of the shirt cuff to allow the cufflink to peek out.

Then some time in the 60's this changed. The story that was in all the men's fashion ariticles said that it was due to Johnny Carson. The story went that the old analog TV cameras in those days could not adjust the white balance quick enough and as Johnny Carson liked to wear bright white shirts when he walked out on stage the cameras would 'bloom'.

So Johnny had all the sleeves of his jackets cut 1" short. Then when he walked out on stage he would 'shoot' his cuffs so the entire white shirt cuff would show and then hold his hands down in front of his body. (You can see him do this on the old Tonight Show recordings from the 60's)

This would give the cameras enough time to adjust the white balance. The story then went on to explain that this was the reason that jacket sleeves began to be cut shorter allowing 1/2" of shirt cuff to show with the arms at the side.

True or not today's jackets are cut to allow 1/4" to 1/2" of shirt cuff to show.

I still do not like shirt cuff showing so all my jackets are cut with the jacket cuff below the wrist.



However many of the current advertisements show the jacket sleeve cut shorter. A quick google image search shows jacket cuffs anywhere imaginable.



I would say that the sleeve length in your photo is far too short for my preference.

[Dunlop]

Thank you both! The jacket is now at the tailor.

[GrainReaper]

Thank you both! The jacket is now at the tailor.

Was it a 40short? That sleeve looks a bit short even to be a 40 regular.

If your Taylor is unable to assist, send it to me, being a 40 short I will dispose of it properly for you.

[Jock Scot]

I don't want to cloud the size issue, but from comments passed over the years on this website seem to imply that The British sizing is not quite the same as American sizing. As I understand it from those comments and for example, a British size 40R is a significant touch smaller than an American size 40R. Perhaps someone has first hand experience of this?

[The Wizard of BC]

The difference Jock is not in the sizing as much as in the 'cut'. In N. American cut jackets are fuller in the armholes, and they are fuller in the body for the same chest size.

I call kilt jackets European but not Italian cuts. They are cut with more taper in the body but not as much as a typical Italian cut coat.

Where this difference is most noticeable is on N. American men with stockier bodies. The chest will be fine but they can't button up the vest due to thicker middles.

I don't really notice much difference in the body shape of N. Americans vs Scots anymore but the cut of kilt jackets is defiantly different.

For example I have compared many 44 reg (my size) kilt jackets with my American cut suit coats. The chest size is the same but the kilt jackets have an armhole 1/2" higher and are 2" to 2.5" smaller, or more tapered, in the waist.

Oh, and as an aside - According to the charts supplied by most of the UK based kilt jacket makers they list that a Tall is simply cut 1" longer in the body and 1" longer in the sleeve than a Regular. A short is 1" less in the body and sleeve length.

A size 40 Long should be 40" in the chest - with a 35" waist. The full length of an Argyle style jacket should be 26.5" measured from the bottom of the collar, down the center of the back, to the hem. For a P/C style the total length, from bottom of collar to bottom of rear tashes, should be 27.75" A 40 Long jacket should have the sleeve Crown to Cuff length @ 25.5"

[Dunlop]

Was it a 40short? That sleeve looks a bit short even to be a 40 regular.

If your Taylor is unable to assist, send it to me, being a 40 short I will dispose of it properly for you.

All the tags, which are handwritten, say 40 long. Luckily, for me, there is plenty of fabric to let out to make the sleeves the right length.

I wear a suit jacket or blazer almost everyday to work, and own a closet full of them. The tailor has to lengthen the sleeves on most of them. They were excited to see this new jacket today!

[Sir Didymous]

The difference Jock is not in the sizing as much as in the 'cut'. In N. American cut jackets are fuller in the armholes, and they are fuller in the body for the same chest size.

I call kilt jackets European but not Italian cuts. They are cut with more taper in the body but not as much as a typical Italian cut coat.

Where this difference is most noticeable is on N. American men with stockier bodies. The chest will be fine but they can't button up the vest due to thicker middles.

I tend to have the opposite problem. If I buy a N. American jacket that properly fits in the chest and shoulders, it tends to fit like a sack around the waist. Just one more reason to kilt up.