Number when pleating to the Sett

[BertMcG]

I'm laying out a kilt I had decided to pleat to the sett, am I correct in assuming that you always have to have an odd number of pleats so that the prominent stripe in the back is centered? My hip split is 19/20 and with the sett I'm using a 1" pleat works the best so it seems the prominent stripe would be off center, any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

[plaid preacher]

I'm laying out a kilt I had decided to pleat to the sett, am I correct in assuming that you always have to have an odd number of pleats so that the prominent stripe in the back is centered? My hip split is 19/20 and with the sett I'm using a 1" pleat works the best so it seems the prominent stripe would be off center, any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

LOL... When I saw the thread title I thought ... odd. The number of pleats is dependent upon the size of the sett and the size of the wearer, but you are correct it must be an odd number so that the centre stripe on the front is also the centre strip on the back. Barb T tends to suggest a slightly smaller pleat is more asthetically pleasing, although when pleating to the stripe you must be careful that you don't lose elements as your taper. Do you have TAoK? Barb explains her method of calculating pleats size. And you may need to make the edge of some of stripes the eddge of your pleat to perserve them in the taper. Again, it's all in the book.

[BertMcG]

but you are correct it must be an odd number so that the centre stripe on the front is also the centre strip on the back.

Thanks, I figured that would be the case, I couldn't see any way around it. I could pleat to the stripe I suppose, I do have Barb's book and I'd like to pleat to the sett so back to the drawing board.

[Barb T]

What tartan are you working with? It IS possible to have an even number of pleats in a kilt pleated to the sett, but the center back element has to be split between two pleats. If both pivots have a narrow stripe in the center, this won't work. But, if one of the pivots is a wide stripe or a color block, you could choose that as the center front and center back and split it down the middle between two pleats. If you tell us what tartan you're working with, I can give you some advice. Also, the size of the sett?

[BertMcG]

Thanks Barb, It's the Irish National

The thin white stripe seemed the obvious choice to me, I can't really picture anything else

[BertMcG]

Sorry forgot, the sett is 7 inches

[Barb T]

Your tartan is actually called "Ireland's National" tartan (see the Register at https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/ta...Image?ref=5289). The "Irish National" tartan is a different tartan (see the register at https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/ta...Image?ref=1855). Subtle difference in name, but a different tartan.

The two pivots are too narrow to split successfully, so you'll need to center either the white stripe or the narrow green stripe in the center front and back and have an odd number of pleats.

So, what you'll need to do is either have 21 pleats, and have each pleat be a little smaller than 1", or 19 pleats, and have each pleat be a little bigger than 1". Or, you could do smaller pleats and have more of them. You are clearly an average size guy, and you have 8 yards of tartan, and the sett is 7", so you ought to be able to get 25 pleats or so out of the tartan you have. Pleats would be about 13/16" at the hips. I can't imagine that you would use up all your tartan if you had only 19 or 21 pleats. You might even get 27 pleats out of the tartan you have.

[BertMcG]

I have a full 8 metres of fabric and it would be a shame to not use most it so I will look at 25 to 27 even 29 pleats which gives me some leeway in the layout.

[Barb T]

Good luck! Holler if you have more questions!

[BertMcG]

Looks like 29 pleats of .7 inches at the hips.

The pleats will taper to .55 inches at the waist and I was worried the wider white stripes would would taper out to spear points but they look to be okay. If it works out I will post some pics (if it doesn't maybe not)