Uk taper

[dana]

Do the Utilikilts have a taper like a traditional?
It seems to me that the taper is the most difficult part of kilt making.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

It's VERY different in every aspect.

1). The material just doesn't have the "give" that it takes to work it by hand and produce a seamless bend in the hips. Wool, on the other hand, has the ability to be "molded" into a certain shape while maintaining the pattern's integrity. They merely angle the pleats instead of creating a "slow bend" with sewing.

2). The design utilized the wider pleats to gather-up the differences in hip width. If you look at the inside, they use a simple angle measurement to compensate for the difference from waist to hip. This is one reason why the pleats will wander around. If the pleats were thinner (like a traditional) they would be a mess!

3). Since the UtiliKilts are machine-sewn, they don't really have the flexibility to create the "bend" that handsewing can. The UK philosophy appears to be one that allows the material to drape in order to cover the taper. A traditional will use the sewing and "bend" to create the waterfall-like effect that you want.

4). Their front apron (or lack of one) also allows the pleats to taper the entire circumference of hte garment. With a traditional, you're compensating in a MUCH smaller area.

~Then there's the SportKilts that merely sew the material at the waist and let the pleats fall or taper where they will.

[dana]

~Then there's the SportKilts that merely sew the material at the waist and let the pleats fall or taper where they will.

Is that really a bad thing? Isn't that how the kilt originated? Just being gathered arouund the waist and belted in place.

Not trying to side one way or another, just trying to understand all this.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Not trying to side one way or another, just trying to understand all this.

Absolutely. Who was going to take the time to lay down and make sure the pleats are all in a nice little pattern? Not someone that doesn't care. I'm trying to picture some Celt asking his buddy, "Does this arrangement make my **** look big?"

We're living in modern times where appearances are important... well, to some anyway. Taking pride in the way the kilt looks is like paying homage to the heritage. It's also respectful to the tartan to have it displayed properly. Just as Hamish will tell you about "what to wear" and "how to look presentable", there's also a certain care that should be taken in the presentation of the tartan and the kilt itself.

Fortunately, we're living in the times when there are options and manufacturers that do the work FOR YOU. Rather than rely on you own abilities to gather pleats, there are kiltmakers who make it their business to ensure that the tartan and the kilt are "pre-straightened".

Of ALL the kiltmakers and kilt companies out there, I only know of ONE that doesn't provide that consideration for the tartan... nor do they necessarily have to. They're not intended to impress anyone with their looks. They're intended to provide "coverage".

This is a GREAT example of why I'm so envious and appreciative of the trained and educated kiltmakers. Their understanding of the construction, heritage, meaning, tradition and importance of uniformity is WELL worth the adoration and respect that we can all afford.

Solids just don't have the problems that tartans do... as in the UKs, PKs, AK, okay.

Now that you mention it, I would probably HOWL laughing if I ever saw a Great Kilt that was perfectly pleated to the sett. I might wonder about the a***-retentive nature of the wearer!

[dana]

Hi Jimmy,

I know exactly what you're saying. When I finally get the chance to wear a kilt, I want to do it respectfully and tastefully. I'm just trying to see the pros and cons of the different kilt makes.

I thought about sewing down the pleats of my Sport Kilt, but after pinning it down and slipping it on I saw how terrible it looked. Although it could have been how I did it. I did realize as I was trying to pin down each pleat how unconcerned they are about the tartan pattern.

I liked your review of the Stillwater kilts, it goes to show that we don't have to pay huge amounts of money to get a nice looking kilt. And i do greatly respect your opinions, you have proven yourself to be very knowledgeable.

Thanks for putting up with what seem like trivial questions.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I liked your review of the Stillwater kilts, it goes to show that we don't have to pay huge amounts of money to get a nice looking kilt.

They've come a LONG way from the StillWater of old, and their work and devotion to supplying what we're asking for is to be commended. Are StillWater Kilts a replacement for a more "traditional" wool kilt? Not really. Are they a FANTASTIC alternative to what's in their price range? Absolutely. I'm VERY impressed that a company will make the changes WITHOUT slapping a price increase on the consumer.

Thanks for putting up with what seem like trivial questions.

That's why Hank started this little mess. There are no trivial questions. What seems small to one may be a revelation to another. Geesh! Half the stuff that Matt and Todd post on the site is an education to us all. I've NEVER had any interest in the military side of this, and now know more than I could have ever imagined.

Fun, ain't it?!

[dana]

Loads of fun Jimmy

Todd and Matt, they're in a whole other catagory, and we're all better for their posts.