Fabric Sizing

[MACKAY]

Okay .. I have a huge piece of Mackay Weathered tartan that my Grandfather (Douglas Mackay) left me about 20 years ago. It is wool, and I am guessing the fabric weight at 13 oz (based on comparison kilts in the closet), but am not sure on this.

The fabric is 54/55 inches wide, and just under 4 yards long. I don't know why he had it, but do have a picture of him at an OSC (Order of Scottish Clans) meeting and it looks like the head table is covered with this piece of tartan. That picture was taken in 1952, so you can tell that the wool is over 50 years old, but is in fantastic condition (kept in a cedar chest for a majority of it's life).

Now the question ... can a decent kilt be made from this? I have used this fabric in the past, without alteration, to make a "Great Kilt', and that looked fine. But since I discovered Xmarks, I was curious as too see if it cannot be utilized in a more formal manner.

And of course the follow up .. If it can be made into a Kilt, can someone recommend a kilt maker who would take this on?

Thanks for any advice...

Brian Mackay -
"Manu Forti'

[Canuck]

You have enough material there to make an 8 yd kilt depending on how long you need it. The kiltmaker will cut it to length and join the two ends to make a run of 8yds.
Cheers
Robert

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Depending on the size of the sett, and the size of your waist you could have one REAL nice kilt! That's just something that I used to LOVE to do when I could. There's NOTHING like taking a family tartan and making it into something useful!!!

Just be REAL careful to get a kiltmaker that knows EXACTLY what they're doing. Your material is a HUGE part of the expense of the kilt, so you "should" be able to have one made for a nice price.

Since it's an older wool, it will need to be conditioned by the kiltmaker prior to the sewing. Eventhough it's been stored nicely, there are "things" that happen to it over time. The sewing and bending process can severely weaken the fibers. If your kiltmaker doesn't know how to do it... than you've DEFINATELY got the wrong kiltmaker!

Wool conditioning is THE FIRST thing that my instructors taught me.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Yes, you definitely have enough for a kilt there. You can get an eight yard kilt out of that easily, by cutting the peice you have in two and seaming the peices together to get a single width length of eight yards.

You can also have a four-yard kilt (like a traditional box pleat) made from it -- or two! Or you can use the extra material for other items.

Anyway, I charge $220 to make a kilt if you provide the cloth. I make the four-yard box pleats. I haven't gotten into making eight yard knife pleats myself, but if you are interested in that option PM me and I'll recommend you to some others.

Aye,
Matt

[MACKAY]

Thank you ALL for the great information. I shudder to think of all the times I was going to modify this to be a bed cover, canopy, or the number of times I thought about slicing and dicing for any number of artistic endeavors. Boy am I glad I never had a rainy day a pair of scissors handy!

Anyhow, I am going forward with the idea of turning this into a full 8-yard kilt. I am now researching who would be the best company / person to do so. As Mr Carbomb indicated, this is an old piece of wool, and if the kilt maker looks at it and decides it is iffy at best to use and refused to make the kilt, I would appreciate that honesty more than someone who is just taking an order and making a buck.

Matt: I appreciate your offer and price on the 4-yard box pleat, but I have my heart set on an 8-yarder.

Any suggestions would be great from those who have been there.

Thanks again to all,
Brian Mackay
'Manu Forti'

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Actually, you can always ask Barb! Other than that, you can inquire with Kathy's Kilts. RiverKilt will attest to her skill and training.

The one thing that you DO NOT want is for that to be machine sewn!!!!! There's no "touch" to feel the integrity of the fabric.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

No problemo. I'd recommend you send the cloth to Bob Martin. He's been making kilts for about 30 years now, and is who trained me to make them. In fact, in 1983, he was the first kiltmaker since the nineteenth century to revive the four yard box pleated kilt. But he makes all kinds of kilts and does it expertly. He's a fellow member of the Guild of Tartan Scholars and knows as much about kilts, and is as skilled a kiltmaker, as probably anyone living.

Anyway, he charges the same as I do for cut, make and trim, and that's $220. I'm sure he wouldn't mind me posting his phone to get him some buisiness, but seeing as this is a very public forum, I'd feel more comfortable if you would PM me if you are interested and I'll give you his number.

Aye,
Matt

PS -- I should also add that he has experience working with old cloth, icnluding restoring a 200 year old kilt for our museum. He's currently working on restoring a kilt that belonged to a woman's grandfather and is probably 100 + years old. So he'd have no problem working with the old cloth.

[MACKAY]

Matt - Tried to PM you and am not sure if it worked, if it did you probably have several copies of this emai by now ... sorry

Matt,

I wanted to PM you so as to not drag out the post, but I am not sure that worked, so onto Plan B.

After reviewing your web site, and reading the comments you posted regarding the 4-yard box pleat, you have my interest up.

I was looking for a traditional 8-yard kilt, but am beginning to think that I can get one made anytime, from any number of kilt makers, at a reasonable price with a readily available tartan (choice of Mackay weathered, modern or hunting/ancient). But how often can I take a piece of heirloom tartan and make something really special out of it, not just your commonly available 8-yard knife pleat?

So, to that point I have some questions:

1) Have you made many commercially available box pleat kilts? If so, is there a reference on the board I can talk to or get a photo of the kilt?

2) Is there still one of the $50 discounts available as you posted a bit ago (hey.. I'm Scottish so I have to ask!)

3) Are the box pleat kilts lined?

4) Can you wear a Fly Plaid with a box pleat? If so, can you make one from my remaining fabric, (total size available little less than 4 yards x 54 inches) so that it matches in consistency?.

5) Would you be able to make flashes out of the same material so that there is a perfect match?

6) If I get this made by you, do I get a free pass to the museum?

Thanks much, I anxiously await your reply,
Brian Mackay

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Brian,

I did get your PM and replied to it just now! Just in case others are curious, to answer your questions:

1. Yes, and you can see pictures on my site:
http://kilts.albanach.org/
Just click on "photos"

MikeinNC has also posted a review of his kilt here in the "traditional kilt" section.

2. All discounts are long gone!

3. Yes, I line them, unless you request otherwise. Go to my site (see above URL) and click on "Kilt details"

4. Yes, you can wear a fly plaid. If you provide the material, I can make one for $75.

5. Yes, I can make matching flashes for $25.

6. Yeah, I'll let you through the museum on me. :-)

See your PM for more details!
Matt[/url]

[bubba]

6. Yeah, I'll let you through the museum on me. :-)Matt[/url]

Anything to make a sale, huh Matt? You didn't tell him it's in the front and out the back in 30 seconds.