Pleating

[Phil Wright]

I've collected a really attractive looking kilt - but it's actually a tartan skirt! I hadn't noticed the apron when I said I was interested. Now I've had a look to see if I can change round the aprons (not too bad) but the pleats go the 'wrong' way. I'm assuming, as with the direction of shirts and tr*"$er fastenings, that for men, the pleats should point the direction that the underapron goes?! Can anyone confirm/deny this? Thanks.
Phil

[beerbecue]

The fold of the pleats go to the right as they overlap when looking at the kilt from the back (counterclockwise when wearing) ....

>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>

not

<<<<<<<
<<<<<<<
<<<<<<<

where the point is the direction of the fold. This would be the same direction that the free underapron edge points when the kilt is put on.....

I hope that makes sense....

[Blu (Ontario)]

With a traditional kilt, if you slide your left hand across your bum (left to right), you should not be able to slide your fingers between the pleats. If you reach back with your right hand (right to left), you should be able to slide your fingers between the pleats at your bum.

Better yet... get you special lady to do it!

cheers,
blu

[Phil Wright]

Thanks guys..... Anyone want a very nice tartan skirt?
Phil

[Riverkilt]

Saw a guy wearing one at the Camp Verde AZ Highland Games Saturday...don't think he had a clue...kilt pin and everything...maybe he was left handed.

One of the Athletes just had some tartan cloth wrapped around his shorts...sorta the tablecloth look.

So, you can probably sell it...maybe somewhere there's a Catholic girl's school that wears that tartan as a uniform....??

Ron

[Phil Wright]

I thought 'nothing to lose' so managed to take apart the 'skirt', and had enough top edge to remove most of the cut out sections. I pressed the cloth and thought I'd do a recce through Barb's book - on a trial run. As a result I have managed to 're-make' the cloth into a proper kilt. I'm quite pleased, and it was a really worthwhile exercise, especially figuring out the repeat and pleat depth. My only real problem was that I had to increase the depth of the waistband to about 1" to ensure that the last cut out sections were securely covered. As I wear it with a wide belt it's covered.I just loved the tartan colours so didn't want to waste it.I'll hopefully get a picture up when the galleries are sorted.

[GMan]

Way to go Phil, you did a great job in explaining what you did. Thank you.

[Will Macadam]

Just wondering if someone can clear this up.
I have ordered a Kilt from a company in Scotland with pleating to the stripe (Military Pleats) I have also heard this referred to as pleating to the line.
'Back Hame' the 'Civilian' pleat is referred to as pleating to the Sett.
I have seen an example of both pleats and to my mind the Military look is the way to go, because of the way the tatan 'flashes' when walking, and also because it hangs so smartly, and is less 'skirty' looking to me.
On this site I see some posters referring to BOX and KNIFE pleats, I take it BOX = SETT and KNIFE = LINE or STRIPE pleats, am I correct in this assumption?
It might help so we can all be on the same page when using the terms to describe pleats.
Anyone want to clarify, confirm -or corerct?
Ta, Will.

[bubba]

This explains the difference between knife and box pleats. http://costume.dm.net/pleats/
Pleating to the sett means the pattern on the front apron is continued all the way across the pleats and pleating to the stripe means a dominent vertical stripe is centered on each pleat, the sett pattern is not maintained across the pleats. Not all tartans look good pleated to the stripe.

[Phil Wright]

Just got back from a few days in the Highlands so I decided to wear my 're-creation' into Edinburgh. I popped in to Hector Russell's where a very sharp lady managed to tell my that the tartan is Chisholm ancient, and a different assistant said she thought I was wearing " a lovely kilt". Very gratifying!
Phil