How to pleat this tartan?

[ronstew]

So, Rocky at USA Kilts has ordered some Navy Stewart to make me a casual kilt. It looks like this:


The tan colour is brighter than these images would have you think. The red stripe that surrounds the large blue square is also more obvious in real life. I asked him to pleat it like this:

(The pink is just to illustrate the folds.)

He replied (hope you don't mind me quoting you here, Rocky),

I CAN do it that way, but it will not look that good. Stripes are supposed to be centered on the pleat. The way you have it pleated , the stripe would be at the edge of each pleat.

My opinion would be to have it pleated to the Sett OR the brown and white center stripes (which you said you DIDN'T want to emphasize).

So what would it look like if it were properly pleated to stripe?

For those who want to fool around with images, there are larger copies at http://moonset.ca/kiltjacket/bignavy.gif and http://moonset.ca/kiltjacket/pleatstripe.gif

All opinions welcome.

[cloves]

proper or not, I really like the way you want to pleat it. Besides, pleating it your way makes it more yours...if that makes sense.

[bangkok kilt]

I agree. I like the way you originally asked for it to be done. Looking at the tartan (which I quite like by the way), it doesn't seem like you'd want to pleat it to the white stripe, and if you pleated the red stripe in the middle I don't see it looking as good.

There's always another way. . . just get two kilts!

[beerbecue]

I support Rocky 100%. There are certain ways to do things...

If you use that wide area as the pleat, it will be difficult to carry the stripes/pattern through the pleats above the fell, where the pleats taper.

You may think it looks good and is doable from futzing around with images, but they do not reflect reality very well.

In addition, remember that pleat size, number, etc. is directly affected by the size of the sett, and the pleating scheme you have proposed may be unrealistic for those reasons....

Anyway, I say go with pleating to the sett..... I believe it is your best option with this tartan...

There are other tartans that are far more amenable to pleating to the stripe.... have your next kilt made that way....

[KMacT]

I suspect this will look better on paper (or on a computer screen) then it when being worn. On paper the narrow light stripe looks centred between two wider blue stripes, but when wearing it the pleats will open at times and I suspect that will significantly change the look - I'm guessing it will not improve the look when that happens, but it's hard to *know* that without seeing it made and in action.

In addition, I think the reason narrow stripes are typically in the middle of the pleats is because when they are at the edge any slight variation in sewing (or pressing) will show up very clearly by widenning or narrowing that already narrow stripe. This is not the case when the narrow stripe is in the centre.

And finally, while I'm a big fan of doing things in a new way, it's also good to remember that in matters of design it is often done one way because many years of trial and error (based on what is pleasing to the eye) have resulted in certain principles that simply look best. You can go against these basic principles, but just know that you do so with risk.

Kevin MacTavish

[ronstew]

Thanks folks. This isn't about "is Rocky right or wrong" because I have full confidence in him. It is about knowing what to ask for and knowing what to expect.

beerbeque - I thought that pleating to stripe has been around since before pleating to sett, so I though that just about any tartan should be good for pleating to stripe.

I do have a swatch of this cloth, and have folded it - I based the computer image on that, not the other way around. But Kevin is right, I want it folded in the middle of a fairly thin stripe, and that is not going to be at all easy. It is easy to get it right on a swatch - but a kilt is not a swatch. And, as Kevin would point out, swatches don't move when you walk.

My next two kilts, 8-yard Black Stewart and Xmarks are definitely going to be pleated to sett. I was hoping to go the other way on this casual kilt.

Still, if somebody can show me what Rocky means by pleating to the brown and white centre stripes, it would be very kind.

[beerbecue]

beerbeque - I thought that pleating to stripe has been around since before pleating to sett, so I though that just about any tartan should be good for pleating to stripe.

Actually, early on, tartans weren't pleated to anything.....

Any tartan could be pleated to stripe, but some tartans look much better than others when done so. Gordon Modern is great pleated to stripe. Now try to imagine MacDonald pleated to stripe - YIKES!!!!!

I have two kilts pleated to stripe - Gordon Modern and Atlanta - they look great. My next kilt is in Lord MacDonald of the Isles Ancient. It could be to stripe, but I am going with sett....

And I never meant to imply that you didn't trust Rocky. And I should have said "agree" instead of "support". But, listen to your kiltmaker - the experience alone is enough to go with the recommendation given.....

[Colin]

I have to agree with Rocky. I think the tartan would be best pleated to the sett. It's such a nice looking tartan, you don't want to hide the back of it by pleating to the stripe.

[mddock58]

Remember there will be some tapering done in the fell, and the stripe on the edge will be affected!

[Kilted KT]

I once saw a guide to putting on a great kilt. It was old, and based on one of the earlier kilt texts. It made no mention of sett or stripe, just to pleat it as a means to wear that much fabric comfortably. The great kilt was used as a blanket/rain gear/tent/anything you can use a whole lot of woll for.

It wouldn't suprise me if with research it was found that pleating to sett or stripe came from royalty somewhere in efforts to differentiate themselves from the commoners.

As to the question at hand, I would personally follow Rocky's advice.