Why hand-sewn?

[GTRMAN]

From what I've seen observed is that hand-sewn kilts cost many times that of those which are machine stitched.. How much better is the quality, really? Is it really worth all of that extra cost? If so, then why?

[macwilkin]

From what I've seen observed is that hand-sewn kilts cost many times that of those which are machine stitched.. How much better is the quality, really? Is it really worth all of that extra cost? If so, then why?

It's really not that much, and yes, it is worth the extra you pay - the satisfaction alone of knowing that your garment was personally made by a skilled kilt maker is worth it.

I had a choice of machine-sewn or hand-sewn when I ordered from Hector Russell's Canadian branch, and the difference was under $50, if I remember correctly. I actually talked to the kilt maker who made my kilt, and Darren was a certified Scottish kilt maker, so that made my kilt even more special.

My wife noticed the difference in quality in my hand-sewn kilt when I first wore it.

Regards,

Todd

[GTRMAN]

It's really not that much, and yes, it is worth the extra you pay - the satisfaction alone of knowing that your garment was personally made by a skilled kilt maker is worth it.

I had a choice of machine-sewn or hand-sewn when I ordered from Hector Russell's Canadian branch, and the difference was under $50, if I remember correctly. I actually talked to the kilt maker who made my kilt, and Darren was a certified Scottish kilt maker, so that made my kilt even more special.

My wife noticed the difference in quality in my hand-sewn kilt when I first wore it.

Regards,

Todd

So the major difference is not "real", per se, but mostly perception? Why is it more satisfying to have a kilt made from a "certified Scottish kilt maker" than any other tailor? Is it more satisfying to have a pair of blue-jeans that are made in America than those made in Canada or China? Overall, wouldn't the quality of a machine stitched garment be superior, or at least more uniform than that of something done by a person?

This is just me, but it would seem that it all boils down to "bragging rights"...

[Schultz]

So the major difference is not "real", per se, but mostly perception? Why is it more satisfying to have a kilt made from a "certified Scottish kilt maker" than any other tailor? Is it more satisfying to have a pair of blue-jeans that are made in America than those made in Canada or China? Overall, wouldn't the quality of a machine stitched garment be superior, or at least more uniform than that of something done by a person?

This is just me, but it would seem that it all boils down to "bragging rights"...

It's far more than bragging rights. There truly is a difference in quality. No matter how well a garment is machine sewn, there are definitely little things that a properly trained tailor (or, in this case, kilt maker) can do that with a needle and thread by hand that simply makes a garment fit better than if its done by hand.

For one thing, in kiltmaking, the stitching of the fell can (and should!) look invisible with a handsewn, something that's impossible with a machine sewn garment. The pulling and skewing that comes with properly shaping a kilt can't really be done while using a machine. It would at least take the same amount of time and probably be more difficult with a machine.

I have a number of hand tailored garments aside from kilts that make most everything else I have pale in comparison in quality, sustainability, and comfort. There really is a difference, but also only if you care about such things. I'm one of those people who does, unfortunately, for my bank account! ;)

[David Dalglish]

Yeh--Bragging Rights--Its nice to say your kilt is hand sewn, but its more than that, your hand sewn kilt has been given the personal touch that a machine sewn one does not

[RockyR]

For one thing, in kiltmaking, the stitching of the fell can (and should!) look invisible with a handsewn, something that's impossible with a machine sewn garment. The pulling and skewing that comes with properly shaping a kilt can't really be done while using a machine. It would at least take the same amount of time and probably be more difficult with a machine.

I have to disagree with you there. You CAN machine sew a kilt (a mojority of it anyway) so that you don't see any stitches and taper it properly... When we sew our Premiers, we sew the pleats INSIDE OUT so that none of the stitches show. It's just takes a lot of time and pinning to get each pleat right. If you TOPSTITCH a kilt (like we do with our other models), you CAN see the stitching.

As per a discussion I had with Barb Tewksbury a couple weeks ago... it takes her about 20 hours or so to hand sew an 8 yard kilt. It takes us about the same ammount of time to machine and hand sew it so that you don't see any stitches.

[Schultz]

Rocky,

I stand corrected then. However, you are the only kiltmaker I've ever come across who machine sews pleats like that and, as you said, it takes quite some time to do so.

As for practicality, I wear my hand sewn (as in sewn by MY own hand) Stuart of Bute to do just about everything in, much to the chagrin of my mother who is constantly asking me "Aren't you afraid of messing it up?". I've changed a tire in it, pulled weeds in it, etc.

People wear clothes for a variety of reasons and practicality is just one of them. Do you not pick out certain clothes for their color, pattern, slogan emblazoned on it, what have you? I don't espouse the idea that form must follow function, because function (aka practicality) is a form of its own.

If you're feeling masochistic, wade through any of the writings of Claude Levi-Strauss on structualism, or, better yet, look for "In Small Things Forgotten" by Jim Deetz. Before reading Deetz, I was a die hard processualist (form follows function) archaeology student, who, I must confess, didn't "get" Levi-Strauss because I was reading a translation from an already dense French. Deetz opened my eyes to a whole new world and one that I've carried over into my everyday life, especially in the how and why of clothing.

But I digress. So long as those of us who prefer a handsewn garment from a trained professional don't look down on those who prefer a machine sewn one, who cares? I've been through this time and time again with fanatic homebrewers who are so in love with real ale that they can practically look with scorn on a fellow who just might like a pint of Budweiser every now and again (such as myself). Arrogance is the enemy here, not who sews your kilt and how!

[arrogcow]

This thread details my comparison with my tank and my 5 yard hand sewn.
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=14828

But in response to Schultz, the stitching on the fell of my tank is very visible, while it is not on the machine sewn. however the sett matches perfectly on the fell of the tank while it is slightly off on the machine sewn.

Adam

[macwilkin]

So the major difference is not "real", per se, but mostly perception? Why is it more satisfying to have a kilt made from a "certified Scottish kilt maker" than any other tailor? Is it more satisfying to have a pair of blue-jeans that are made in America than those made in Canada or China? Overall, wouldn't the quality of a machine stitched garment be superior, or at least more uniform than that of something done by a person?

This is just me, but it would seem that it all boils down to "bragging rights"...

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, of course. So what if it is "perception", "bragging rights", etc? If that makes a particular kilt special to someone, then that's great, particularly if the kilt symbolises their family heritage. Horses for courses and all that.

Personally, I like knowing that my kilt was made by someone who was trained and certified in Scotland, since the kilt has its origins there. But that won't stop me from ordering a kilt from someone who has a good reputation for making kilts and is not certified in Scotland either. My kilt is special to me for family heritage, it is not a pair of Jeans, so I want it to be special in every way. If that's "bragging rights", then so be it.

My hand-sewn is of far-better quality then the two machine-sewn kilts I owned from J. Higgins, btw. Yes, that machine-sewn kilt may be more "uniform", but it's only as good as the person running that machine, and I would much rather have the knowledge of someone who has been trained and schooled by someone who knows the craft.

Regards,

Todd

[GTRMAN]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, of course. So what if it is "perception", "bragging rights", etc? If that makes a particular kilt special to someone, then that's great, particularly if the kilt symbolises their family heritage. Horses for courses and all that.

Personally, I like knowing that my kilt was made by someone who was trained and certified in Scotland, since the kilt has its origins there. But that won't stop me from ordering a kilt from someone who has a good reputation for making kilts and is not certified in Scotland either. My kilt is special to me for family heritage, it is not a pair of Jeans, so I want it to be special in every way. If that's "bragging rights", then so be it.

My hand-sewn is of far-better quality then the two machine-sewn kilts I owned from J. Higgins, btw. Yes, that machine-sewn kilt may be more "uniform", but it's only as good as the person running that machine, and I would much rather have the knowledge of someone who has been trained and schooled by someone who knows the craft.

Regards,

Todd

Not trying to offend anyone here.. Just trying to undestand the phenomenon..

You all talk about the the invisibility of the thread and the fell, etc.. How many people are actually looking for these things? Are those really PRACTICAL considerations?