Xmarks Tartan Pleated to Yellow Stripe

**O'Neille** · 30th October 07, 01:05 AM

I had some remnant Xmarks tartan so I used the most damaged selvedge side to make my first handsewn kilt. I figured it would be less tragic if I flubbed it. Blind Hemmed first. Then I followed the Art of Kiltmaking instructions to complete the kilt. The logic of the book becomes very clear if you stray from it.

I pleated it a few different ways and decided I liked the yellow stripe. I experimented with pleating to the set but decided against it. My orthopedic doc allowed me to start running again and pleating to the stripe allows easier reduction in girth.

Here it is with all the pleats sewn and basted. I basted it early to keep it compact while moving it around.

Getting ready to do surgery on the pleats.

After a deep breath.

Cutting Steeking and stabilizing done.

Canvassing, aprons, buckles and lining were done as per instructions, I was on a roll and didn't stop for pictures. I think obsessed would be an adequate term. The hem and apron finishing were great because every step got me closer to a finished kilt.

And here it is. And after an hour I finally have it presentable. Tried it on and the hem was a little stiff (think heiroglyphic) so I had to do some shaping to get it where I could tollerate it. I need to take it out for a hike to get it to conform and relax a little.

And with some accessories. I did not put on sporran/belt loops. With the flare above the waist the belt stays put just fine.

**Moosedog** · 30th October 07, 01:17 AM

Wow, it looks great! Thanks for posting the pictures.

Moosedog

**O'Neille** · 30th October 07, 01:55 AM

A few pics of it layed out before I removed the basting. I put on the and Arizona ironwood kilt pin. Then I swapped it for the ivory for more contrast.

**James MacMillan** · 30th October 07, 03:52 AM

That is one fine kilt!

How many hours do you have in the project? By that I mean, just how long does it take to sew a kilt?

**O'Neille** · 30th October 07, 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by James MacMillan

That is one fine kilt!

How many hours do you have in the project? By that I mean, just how long does it take to sew a kilt?

I would estimate that It took me ten hours to lay out the kilt and get the pleats sewn and basted. It took an additional five hours to finish the inside and another five to comlete the aprons. Add in another five to Ten for searching for lost scissors and needles and head scratching.

On a side note, The Art of Kiltmaking is a lot like a pharmacology text. The first time you read it it doesn't make sense. After a while you learn a new language and get some practical hands on experience. When I went back and read the book it all made perfect sense. The book is written to guide you through the process. Let it!

**James MacMillan** · 31st October 07, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by O'Neille

I would estimate that It took me ten hours to lay out the kilt and get the pleats sewn and basted. It took an additional five hours to finish the inside and another five to comlete the aprons. Add in another five to Ten for searching for lost scissors and needles and head scratching.

On a side note, The Art of Kiltmaking is a lot like a pharmacology text. The first time you read it it doesn't make sense. After a while you learn a new language and get some practical hands on experience. When I went back and read the book it all made perfect sense. The book is written to guide you through the process. Let it!

Well, I now have Barb's book, and I'm reading it through slowly. But I have little confidence in my ability to sew. But I'm learning things!

**O'Neille** · 31st October 07, 09:43 PM

Get some small amounts of tartan that matches some of your kilts that don't have flashes. Then practice sewing some flashes. The stitching required to sew the back hidden seam on one is the same as the amount of sewing for one pleat. It's hidden so it doesn't have to be perfect. Once you've completed a couple sets you'll have some stitching experience equal to sewing eight pleats. When you attach them to some garters you'll have experience with another type of stitch you'll be doing on the kilt. Flashes don't require that level of sewing but it's a great way to practice your sewing skills.

**McMurdo** · 30th October 07, 05:38 AM

Very nicely done, I wish I had the talent.

**Chase** · 30th October 07, 06:08 AM

That is nice...It's also the first time I've seen the XMTS kilt all around...Does anyone sell them already made or do I have to buy the tartan material and find a kiltmaker to have it done and what is the average cost?

My apologies, but being a new kilt member is difficult for me to learn all the different weights, pleates, setts, fabrics, etc...I'm learning, but truthfully, I'm having a hard time with the lingo.

Chase

**McMurdo** · 30th October 07, 06:13 AM

Originally Posted by Chase

That is nice...It's also the first time I've seen the XMTS kilt all around...Does anyone sell them already made or do I have to buy the tartan material and find a kiltmaker to have it done and what is the average cost?

My apologies, but being a new kilt member is difficult for me to learn all the different weights, pleates, setts, fabrics, etc...I'm learning, but truthfully, I'm having a hard time with the lingo.

Chase

Chase
I know you said you were talking to Pete from Canadian Casual Kilts about the Maple Leaf, he made up my x-marks tartan kilt here is my review and pictures. I was talking to him on Saturday and he still has some of the x-marks tartan left.

You might want to talk to him about it.