Jacket 3.0 Open Source Design

[kevinkinney]

Hello All,

I'd like to open this thread with an introduction- My new best friends:

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The red one is my new Ardis Tailoring Form. ($150- get one now!), and the black one is an Ebay mannequin that will double as me for a contest. The red container in the background is my rolling garment rack- the one that keeps our fine clothing safe from Beeswax (a.k.a. Thorfinn #96), our house cat. Today's Ebay fishing netted me a school of vintage patterns in most jacket sizes.

Here's what arrived in my shop today

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Left is Matt Newsome's Harris Tweed for his new jacket.

The middle is a stout woolen slated for Operation Kilts-vs-Quilts: 2009 (2008? ) MN State Fair Craft Competition.

The right one is a lovely worsted suiting wool that drew a passionate "Pencil skirt! Pencil skirt! Pencil skirt...with a jacket..." pleading from the resident female.

I've been greatly encouraged by the feedback from the jackets I posted. Thank you all. I pursued them because that's how my brain is wired. I like the idea of a classy look. I love to work with wool. And my tail really wags furiously when I'm doing something new and weird. I'm planning to make an updated coat for myself, then one for Matt. Should the process go smoothly, I' may offer them as bespoke garments through the Scottish Tartans Museum.

I'm looking at a few weeks of solid ECW production work before I can put pencil to tag board, so I'd like to get some feedback in the interim. What would appeal to you in a jacket? Where would you wear one? What would you be doing in it, and how should I be building it to accommodate you?

First, some Kevin sporting jacket design philosophy:

1. I dislike washing garments, only slightly less than I loathe dry cleaning. That's why I love wool. I've worn some of our ECW insulation layers for years without any real care, and they still look and smell fresh. But most fine woolen suits, blazers, and vests are lined with synthetics. It's not the shell of your business suit that starts to smell from the pressure of you job, it's the lining. I'd like to avoid using synthetics, and line jackets with a sheer woolen suiting material, something that moves, acts, and breathes like the rest of the garment.

2. Good looking stuff is nice, but a good range of motion is more critical to me. I've spent plenty of time in street garments and uniforms. My business is about playing outside. I'd like to forsake the pinched fit and feel of the gentleman's tweed, and strive for utility. You may have figured this out already without my mentioning it.



This was a good start, but I'd like to add adjustable closures on the cuffs to accept gloves, allow you to ventilate. If this jacket would fit over an Aran knit, it would be killer. The Bi-Swing back stays. It's just too practical.

I like the look and durability of the leather, but I'd probably get more day to day use without the shooting pad on the shoulder. I've sketched a removable one that anchors at the shoulder seam, at the armpit, and under the collar. I like epaulets. Not the frilly kind, but stout and functional ones with snaps. I wear a shoulder bag daily when I'm out, and lashing it in place while casting, shooting pictures, and hiking has some appeal.

3. Real tailoring is a art. I'm not an artist. I'm a technician, designer, and manufacturer. Altering Tuxedos and other coats is pretty easy. Most of the hard work was done by the patient hands that built the canvas of the chest and grafted it to the shell fabric. They shaped the roll of the collar, and stuffed the cap of the sleeves while stitching multiple layers of lining and shell together in a manner that I just can't seem to simplify. Tailoring cost good money for a reason. Those guys are nuts.

Given my druthers, I'd work without adding structure to the fabric. That means minimal chest canvas, top stitched seams, and as little lining as possible. I'm in love with the wool, and willing to let it work as the sheep intended. Granted, soft shoulder construction would stink on your doublet, but a slight reinforcement of extra shell fabric would still breathe well, and keep you looking smart on the field. Only the guys are looking at your jacket anyway, and what do they know...

So, I'll yield the thread, don some bifurcated flannel, and go curl up with Thorfinn #96 and read a book while waiting for the redhead to return from work.

Cheers,

Kevin.

[Fedgunner]

I really like the looks of that jacket!!

[Finn]

Kevin,
I LOVE the one pictured above. A removable shoulder pad would also be fantastic. I think its great as is.
Daily wear & outdoor activities.
I must disgree with you on one point- this jacket proves you to be an artist.

[kmaclea]

What would appeal to you in a jacket? Where would you wear one? What would you be doing in it, and how should I be building it to accommodate you?

Kevin,

My Jacket desires are pretty minimal. Looking at the jacket you put up, I REALLY like it and think you did an excellent job. Since I have no need of the shoulder shooting pad, I think the idea of having an optional or addable shoulder pad would be great. Personally, I think your jacket without the leather at all would probably look great too.

My normal use of such a jacket would be just for general day wear, no special considerations. If you charge a reasonable rate on such a jacket, though, I would be most interested! It's a work of art whether you believe it or not!

Beautiful job, looking forward to hearing more!

Kyle=

[McFarkus]

Looks like you're set for production!

[BluesDoxieGa]

Kevin,
I like the fact that you designed the jacket for movement. I also like the leather trim, but it will also look great as a dress jacket without the leather trim. I also like the green wool, as it will go with almost all my kilts.

I already have money set aside to buy a jacket when you go into production. I will work the runway if you need a male model! LOL

[starbkjrus]

I don't know much about the construction of jackets but I do agree that I like to be able to move around in it. I don't shoot but I do a lot of other outdoor type activities so I'd wear it for hiking etc. as well as just a casual jacket down to the pub.

If the pricing works out I'll certainly buy one. (perhaps with a side of wool Inverness? )

[JerseyLawyer]

I'm still jonesing for one. I haven't gotten around to buying a shooting jacket yet for my novice shotgunning self, but I would definitely go kilted and wear one of these if I could.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Kevin,

I've already shared some of my thoughts with you, but just to chime in. I really like the look of the shooting jacket, and I am not into shooting or firearms or any of that. I just think it's a real classic look and it works great for any kind of outdoor activity.

I like the leather accents. I wouldn't be upset if you were to remove or scale down some of them, but I think it adds to the outdoor look of the jacket.

Can't wait to see how you continue to refine this design!
Aye,
Matt

[RobertParker]

I think it looks great as is but since you asked, I personally would prefer a couple things different:

1. I don't care for the leather strap in the back. I know it's supposed to give the jacket shape and stuff, but for my own self, I don't care for the look and would just as soon have the jacket shaped by darts/tailoring or whatever. I know that probably adds more work, but if we're talking about bespoke...then that's what I'd like.

2. Slash pockets in the front. The big well pockets for shells are great, but I like slash pockets to put my hands in. Especially if they're lined with something like fleece, shearling, etc.

3. No lapels. I personally think lapels belong on things like suit-coats, sport-coats, etc., and that outdoor wear is a different animal. And despite their origin as "gentleman's sporting wear," I don't think of sport-coats as actually the best option for outdoor activities. Rather, just a regular straight front with buttons or snaps, or whatever and a normal collar like a bomber jacket, so that it can be fastened all the way up for chilly days. Perhaps a leather collar to match the shooting patch, though.

4. I actually like the shooting patch as is. I see what you mean about detaching it, but as a frequent shooter, I kinda like it to be a subtle (or not-so-subtle) indicator of my interest.

5. The epaulettes are a great idea, for lots of reasons: keeping straps for bags, binoculars, etc. in place; also in keeping the the tradition of kilt jackets and shooting apparel being quasi-military in nature.

As I said before, it's a great looking jacket as is, but as I prefer a more rugged, safari/quasi-military kind of a look, its general appearance resembles more of a sport jacket than what I consider a serious shooting jacket. Still, it's pretty cool. I'm looking forward to seeing new versions, whatever they may be.