Question on swords

[beloitpiper]

This is a two-part question.

Part 1:
I have come into possession of a good quality basket hilt. There is a little rust at the tip and I want to know the proper way of removing the rust without damaging the blade. I also would like to know of tips to keeping the blade clean and rust-free.

Part 2:
Is there any historical example of a one-handed claymore? I know of the huge two-handed, 5 ft. long claymores, but are there any museum pieces of smaller, one-handed ones?


Thanks guys.

[dfmacliam]

as for cleaning the tip... I have always been told to use a very fine steel wool and buff it out...then keep a bit of oil on the blade..light coat..

[Charlie Mc.]

Scotchbrite pads work great assuming it isn't highly polished. As for clean and rust free just keep it very lightly oiled and it should be fine.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

This is a two-part question.

Part 1:
I have come into possession of a good quality basket hilt. There is a little rust at the tip and I want to know the proper way of removing the rust without damaging the blade. I also would like to know of tips to keeping the blade clean and rust-free.

Part 2:
Is there any historical example of a one-handed claymore? I know of the huge two-handed, 5 ft. long claymores, but are there any museum pieces of smaller, one-handed ones?


Thanks guys.

Part 1: Before you set about removing the rust with steel wool, first ascertain that the blade isn't plated. If it is, or if you are not sure, then the best way to proceed would be to scrape the rust off with an old credit card. The plastic is tougher than the rust, but not hard enough to scratch the blade. Use a light oil-- 3-in-1, etc.-- and carefully scrape toward the tip of the blade. With patience you should be able to remove the rust, unless it is quite severe. In that instance I would suggest using a very fine jewelers rouge and a thick polishing cloth, being careful not to damage the rest of the blade. Again, polish toward the tip of the blade, and avoid scrubbing at it with "back and forth" strokes.

When finished, wash the blade with liquid detergent. Rinse it off, being careful to keep the blade pointed down so no water can seep into the hilt. Dry the bade carefully with a thick cloth and then let it air dry over night. In the morning check it carefully for any signs of rust and then apply a thin coat of oil to the blade. Check the condition of the blade every thirty days, and at that time apply another thin coat of oil.

Part 2: Yes, there are examples of one-handed "claymores" that date from the 15th century. In fact, they are the precursors of what we think of as the traditional, two-handed Highland claymore, which are by and large an invention of the 16th century--

Hope that answers you questions!

[JRB]

There are several examples of specifically Scottish single handed swords whose hilt design and aesthetics are noticeably different from their contemporaries in other parts of Europe and the British Isles. They range in time from about the 12th-15th century. They are generally not, however, referred to as claymores even though several aspects of their design have clearly influenced the later period Scottish claymore “grete swerds”. Albion Armorers of Wisconsin, Del Tin Armi Antiche of Italy and Armour Class Swords of Scotland make examples of such swords.

Here are a few examples…

Albion Armorers Caithness. With downward sloping guard with central beak. This particular sword has a pommel very similar to earlier period Viking swords. It is an earlier example of about the late 12th century.


Albion Armorers Laird. This sword has the central beaked downward sloping guard that terminate in flattened spatulate ends. From the 12th-14th century. These may be what developed into the quatrefoil spatulate guard on the two handed Scottish Claymore.


Del Tin Scottish single handed sword. Again, the downward sloping guard with central beak. This sword is a bit later period (say 15th c.)


Armour Class Hand and a Half sword. Again we see a downward sloping spatulate ended guard and central beak. This is not a true single handed sword but is still much smaller than a claymore. Dated around 15th century.


There is also another type of large two handed Scottish claymore that is much less well known yet seems to be just as prevalant historically. It is referred to commonly as the clamshell hilted claymore because of it's large clam shell shaped hand guards. At least one historical example of this sword can be seen in the book "Culloden The Swords And The Sorrows". Armour Class makes a version which I happen to own.

[Pleater]

I stick rusty ferrous metal into really strong tea for an hour or so, really bad I leave overnight - the tannin seems to react with it, but they are all working for their living items, not flashy show off stuff so I am not certain you would be pleased with the results. My concept of cleaned and polished might not meet your standards.


I find the image of the swords stuck into or touching the ground really unsettling. It feels so wrong and I can't think why - well it might make the tips go rusty, but it is verging on superstitious dread.

Maybe the soul of the blade will seep away into the earth, or perhaps something unkind will climb into it.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[beloitpiper]

Thanks guys! The sword is really nice. High carbon, unplated, well made, etc. But I think the previous owner had it stuck in the ground, as Anne feared.

I ask about the short claymore because of a painting of MacDonald.

See, the sword looks like a claymore but is also significantly shorter than (what I think) a claymore should be. Just wondering if something like this is real.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Thanks guys! The sword is really nice. High carbon, unplated, well made, etc. But I think the previous owner had it stuck in the ground, as Anne feared.

I ask about the short claymore because of a painting of MacDonald.

See, the sword looks like a claymore but is also significantly shorter than (what I think) a claymore should be. Just wondering if something like this is real.

There are two types of two handed swords encountered in Scotland; the large two handed sword (quite often with clam shell guards) which was popular in the Lowlands until the 17th century, and the Highland two handed sword with its characteristic drooping cross guard terminating in an open quatrefoil at each end. It is generally agreed that these developed from the smaller Highland swords. These Highland two-handed swords are somewhat smaller than the Lowland varieties, which accounts for the size of the sword in the MacIain print. Like the Lowland sword these "claidheamhmors" remained in use until the 17th century.

The use of a Highland claymore in McIan's picture of the Lord of the Isles is probably anachronistic, but pretty much accurate as to its size. Most one-handed swords have blades that range in length from 30-34 inches while the blade of a Highland claymore would be about 10 inches longer. The hilt would add another 12-14 inches to the overall length of the sword. Generally speaking a Highland claymore would probably have been be something between 54 and 62 inches long from pommel to point. Writing in 1899, Lord Archibald Campbell described the example in Dunrobbin Castle, which dates from this period, as being in 5ft 1in in length and weighing in at just over 4.5 pounds.

These swords were made to suit the stature of a specific individual, and would have been no taller than the middle to top of the shoulder, at a time when most men would have been well under six foot in height.

The figure in the background (to the right of the sword) is seen with his hand resting on the hilt of a sword probably no larger than that held by McIan's Lord of the Isles, which should give you a better idea as to the size of the Highland claymore in relation to the men who used them.

[McMurdo]

Greg
Congratulations on the sword, I'd have to say I've got no experience with this so I'll leave the rust removal to the experts. I hope you'll consider putting photos in this thread:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...526/index.html

[BEEDEE]

Greg - out of interest are there any markings at the top of the blade just under the basket? That's where maker's typically put their marks.

brian