Pleat Curl

[MacBean]

My new (and first) kilt's pleats curl outwards just to the left of the outer apron - but only the first 2-3 pleats. Is this to be expected, or is it related to the way I tighten it or store it? I keep all three buckles tightened the same amount. As far as storage goes, I am laying the kilt face down and rolling it from one side, storing it in a roll in a drawer.

[Paul]

Is the kilt wool?
I normally move my kilts about a bit if they hang up for more than a few weeks to stop that sort of thing happening - but my pleats have never really shifted on any of my wool kilts.

[MacBean]

Yes, it is a wool 5x. I do not hang it at all (instructions on some web site I saw).

[Bugbear]

I've done some experiments, after reading some of The Wizard of BC's advice on this issue, and this could be in the steeking of the kilt just above the bottom of the fell on the inside of the kilt.

The pleats on the left side want to sag outward with the fell stitching being a pivit point at the bottom. The steeking holds them in place on the other edge of the pleats.

It might be a matter of adjusting the steeking so the pleat is held strait. I don't know if your pleats are cut away above the fell on the inside, though.

* Sorry, it took a bit to write that. Someone else should try to explain it better.

[Tartan Hiker]

If several pleats are curling, it may well be a fitting issue. First, be sure that you are wearing it high enough. The top buckles should lie at your natural waist (not your jeans waist). Next, loosen the third (lower) buckle (if you have one) so that it is one hole looser than the top buckle on the right side.

[MacBean]

The steeking holds them in place on the other edge of the pleats. It might be a matter of adjusting the steeking so the pleat is held strait. I don't know if your pleats are cut away above the fell on the inside, though.

Sounds interesting. Can you explain what steeking is, how I find it, and whether this means I should find a taylor, a kilt maker, or a pair of scissors?

[fluter]

Sounds interesting. Can you explain what steeking is, how I find it, and whether this means I should find a taylor, a kilt maker, or a pair of scissors?

Actually a steek is just a Gaelic stitch.

In context of a traditional kilt, it is stitching put in place after the extra material is cut out from the top of the pleats, to stabilize them. An "8 yard" kilt has that extra material removed, a short-yardage kilt may or may not. I probably sound like a broken record (remember those?), but The Art of Kiltmaking shows you exactly what it is and how it's done. Even if you don't want to make your own, you'd learn an enormous amount from the book. If you can borrow a copy for a weekend, you'll see what I mean.

Actually the first thing to do would be to ask the kiltmaker. Is this your very handsome casual kilt that we're discussing?

[MacBean]

Actually the first thing to do would be to ask the kiltmaker. Is this your very handsome casual kilt that we're discussing?

Shucks, flattery will get you everywhere! The kiltmaker has been more than kind and generous, I really don't want to bother them. I really am just trying to learn more about the mysterious kilt, and how to care for them. I think I will get the book though, I'm becoming curious.

Dear Santa...

[St. Amish]

I wouldn't roll a kilt for storage. Any fabric has "memory" and will conform to the shape of what it's stored in.

I used to use safety pins to keep my kilt on a standard wire hanger, but have recently discovered a sturdy hanger from "order of the gael" that is designed just for kilts. It's wooden, with three bars on the bottom, each with two clips. The clip and bar arrangement allows for each apron and the rear to be sturdily kept in place, in a regular suit bag, in the back of my closet.

http://www.orderofthegael.org/kilthanger.htm

[Paul Henry]

Hanging is a better way of storing kilts, which website said to store them rolled?
Short term travelling is really about the only way I'd think of rolling them and it is good when you are packing a case, but long time I'd want to hang them so the pleats can hand down and largely free.
The pleat curl can be lots of things, but I suggest hanging you kilt for a while , and the press carefully with some steam and a damp cloth.