Adjusting Kilt Length? URGENT

[scotsuru94]

I have a kilt that comes down too far over my knees and i'd like to adjust it, but im told it's improper to hem a kilt from some people and that it'll make it impossible for the pleats to hang correctly. what do i do?

[davidlpope]

First off, are you sure that you are wearing the top of your kilt at your bellybutton or higher?

How tall are you and what is the measurement from the waistband of your kilt down to the selvedge in the middle of the outer apron?

Often new kilt wears will wear the kilt too low, so just want to be sure. You can adjust the length of a kilt by hemming or taking length of the top of the kilt, but it would be best done by a professional kiltmaker, if needed.

Cordially,

David

[thescot]

There are two answers. Both will work; the first is best.

1. Get a real kilt maker to tear the waist loose and redo the whole thing. It's quite a job of actually rebuilding the kilt, but it actually moves the waist line down, making the result a shorter kilt.

2. Ever so carefully cutting the selvege end. This is a tedious process and not for the faint of heart or shaky of hand. There are some very good instructions online about running a zig-zag stich and using some fray stopping stuff. It is my understanding that the regiments used this method.

I know, I know. You can hem it, but a kilt is not hemmed, and there is no way on earth that I will ever believe that a hem doesn't adversly affect the hang of the kilt. So let the slings and arrows of outrageous hemmers commence. I still would never hem my kilt, only my wife's skirt.

[Paul Henry]

There are two answers. Both will work; the first is best.

1. Get a real kilt maker to tear the waist loose and redo the whole thing. It's quite a job of actually rebuilding the kilt, but it actually moves the waist line down, making the result a shorter kilt.

2. Ever so carefully cutting the selvege end. This is a tedious process and not for the faint of heart or shaky of hand. There are some very good instructions online about running a zig-zag stich and using some fray stopping stuff. It is my understanding that the regiments used this method.

I know, I know. You can hem it, but a kilt is not hemmed, and there is no way on earth that I will ever believe that a hem doesn't adversly affect the hang of the kilt. So let the slings and arrows of outrageous hemmers commence. I still would never hem my kilt, only my wife's skirt.

my emboldening


As others have said already, kilts can be hemmed, it's best if you know what you are doing, but Anne and Barb have given their advice , and given their comments. I have recently repaired a 40 year old kilt, and guess what it was hemmed, and it was almost impossible to tell.

Almost all the kilts from the Welsh Tartan Centre are hemmed as their weaver doesn't provide a good selvedge edge.
Some of Marton mills fabric doesn't have a selvedge edge(as Chas has said) and very fine kilts are made from their cloth

I don't think that we would ever call Barb an outrageous hemmer

Of course in an ideal world hemless kilts would be the best option, it's a lot less work for a start!

[Ozark Ridge Rider]

Wonderful advice. Now, the one I need 2" shorter is a Stillwater standard. I suppose that makes it acrylic, or some other synthetic. I don't wear it much since I got wool kilts, but would still use it for situations where I don't want to expose the better ones to any abuse.

Does the same advice still hold true, except maybe pressing with a lot cooler iron?

Dan

[fluter]

Wonderful advice. Now, the one I need 2" shorter is a Stillwater standard. I suppose that makes it acrylic...

Does the same advice still hold true, except maybe pressing with a lot cooler iron?

That's right, Dan. Since the Stillwaters come in one length, doing a hem is pretty commonplace.

In my experience, the SWK fabric has a decent selvedge, so you don't want to cut it. Just fold once & hem. The herringbone stitch is illustrated here by Barb.

For extra credit, you can turn up an extra 3/8 inch at the corner of the under-apron and the fold of the deep pleat, as Barb mentions above. Go ahead and undo the facings to make it pretty: it'll be worth it.

[Dixiecat]

There are two answers. Both will work; the first is best.

1. Get a real kilt maker to tear the waist loose and redo the whole thing. It's quite a job of actually rebuilding the kilt, but it actually moves the waist line down, making the result a shorter kilt.

2. Ever so carefully cutting the selvege end. This is a tedious process and not for the faint of heart or shaky of hand. There are some very good instructions online about running a zig-zag stich and using some fray stopping stuff. It is my understanding that the regiments used this method.

1. That is a huge job that a real kilt maker would not do. If a kilt has been made to measure, the waist line is the (generally) narrowest part. It's where the kilt hangs from! Hemming from the top would mean that you'd have to redo all the pleats to get the kilt hanging properly. Certainly can be done, but why would you? It's less expensive to get a new kilt!

2. Cutting or tearing the kilting selvedge is just WRONG!! Using fray stopping stuff would RUIN the kilt. You'd never get it out, it'll add a ridge that you can't press out, it'll scratch your skin, and as it ages, it will flake and turn white.
Running a zig-zag will actually stretch the fabric ever so slightly and make the hem wavy. No kilt maker in their right mind would ever, ever consider these methods.

I know, I know. You can hem it, but a kilt is not hemmed, and there is no way on earth that I will ever believe that a hem doesn't adversly affect the hang of the kilt. So let the slings and arrows of outrageous hemmers commence. I still would never hem my kilt, only my wife's skirt.

From the number of posts to the contrary, you've definitely been proven wrong. Why would you ever think a kilt can't be hemmed? Kilts have been passed from one family member to others and have probably been hemmed since their 'invention'. And, call me outrageous but, I think the comment about hemming being only for women's garments is just plain rude.

[Tobus]

How much are we talking about here? Half an inch? Two inches? I suspect the best solution will depend on how much needs to be adjusted.

[Chas]

The last batch of XMarks fabric was delivered without a kilting selfedge - so it was hemmed. I have not heard of any one complaining that their kilt does not hang properly. I own and wear a MacLeod with a 2" hem. It hangs and swishes just like a kilt with a selfedge.

I would not cut anything off the bottom a kilt.

Regards

Chas

[Pleater]

On a lightweight kilt a hem can give the pleats more swish - and where a fabric has to be cut across - when using a pinstripe or corduroy for instance, then a hem is a required feature.

Having a kilting selvage as the lower edge of the kilt is - realistically - a council of perfection, and in a situation where having a hem means the difference between a wearable kilt and not - then I'd go for the hem every time.

I had to look to see if the kilt I am wearing has a hem - it does - but it is certainly not obvious from a distance of a couple of feet.

First, make sure the kilt is clean, then press the lower edge using a pressing cloth and lots of steam and weight to make the part turned up lay flat. Work from the inside of the kilt.

Do not cut off the selvage - you can make a hem with just two layers with the selvage intact, but you risk unraveling if working with an open edge.

Turn up the edge and press it along the right line, then fold each pleat and press them individually just at the lower edge - it is easier to do this with a sleeve board or something improvised.

Because the folds of the pleats require the fabric to be wrapped around itself the pattern will be slightly pushed or pulled to one side depending on which part of the pleat you are sewing - it is correct to allow this rather than try to keep it aligned, and it will keep the pleats in shape rather than try to unfold them.

Herringbone stitch is recomended. I have always used whip stitch on my kilts as it is faster and I am usually short of time.

When selecting thread it is usually better to use a darker than a lighter shade, as the darker one will show less.

When all is sewn give a final light pressing but be aware that the edge of the hem can show through on the outside, so it is best avoided when doing an overall press of the kilt.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: