Formal Buckle Shoes

[CMcG]

There appear to be two main types of shoes specifically geared towards formal Highland attire: the bar and buckle (mess) brogue vs. the buckle shoe. My super-polished black cap toe oxfords are great and can also be worn with a suit but I'm investigating other options. Ghille brogues are out of the question. I'm currently favouring the buckle shoe.

Is there any difference in formality between the two main styles (pictures below)? Are there other styles that I'm not aware of? What levels of formality are these shoes appropriate to? What is your preference?

I've been reading a few of the older threads about buckle shoes and found one that showed a DIY way of getting into a pair. The process is simply to acquire a pair of formal slip-on shoes and then attach buckles to them. Hopefully I can gather a few more details from the experts before starting this project and any advice would be much appreciated.

I have been looking on eBay at some fancier buckles made from iron or silver with patterns on them or else cut steel. The buckles I've seen from retailers, however, seem to be universally flat, shiney, and plain. Is there any problem with buckles that have a pattern on them?

Here are two images from our sponsor Keltoi Gaelic Clothing. I'm interested in cobbling together something like the first pair. The second pair is just for reference in any discussion.

[Cygnus]

The first pair (the Highlander Kilt Shoe or Glenfinnan) tends to appeal to those with more modern tastes, while the second is by far the more traditional.

In Scottish Tartans and Highland Dress, one can find examples of both kinds of shoes (though the closed shoe has a rounder toe). That could just be the illustrator taking liberties, though.

The two evening shoes endorsed by MacKinnon in the above book are the buckle-and-strap shoe and the ghillie brogue, though he recommends the ghillie with red laces and with a silver buckle. I might consider evening ghillie brogues in this style, though I much prefer the buckle-and-strap shoe.

There is no problem with patterned buckles, in fact, I much prefer them to the simple buckles supplied with most shoes; though they're often quite expensive. I'm very fond of those offered by MacKenzie Frain.

[CMcG]

<snip> I'm very fond of those offered by MacKenzie Frain.

Those are some nice buckles! They deserve a hot link:

[DWFII]

Those are some nice buckles! They deserve a hot link:

the problem is that they are not really buckles. They're just ornaments pretending to be buckles.

[CMcG]

the problem is that they are not really buckles. They're just ornaments pretending to be buckles.

Not necessarily a problem for me, although I understand that you are a shoe maker and have different interests.

I'm not too concerned with historical authenticity and more interested in the ornamentation factor. Working buckles could present quite a problem for me in my stated goal of a semi-DIY evening shoe for Highland attire. For this purpose, slip on shoes with decorative buckles are fine...

Or is there an important distinction I'm missing?

[DWFII]

Or is there an important distinction I'm missing?

For your stated purposes, probably not. But anyone who knows anything about shoes will know the difference. Just as anyone who knows anything about kilts can literally see the difference between a 16 ounce wool and a 13 ounce wool...nevermind acryllic.

Of course, aside from the fact that most people don't know much about shoes, such subtlties may not make any difference to you.

I'm not trying to tell you what you should like or wear. I'm just giving you some background information so that you can make a better...perhaps even informed...decision.

[Joshua]

The first pair (the Highlander Kilt Shoe or Glenfinnan) tends to appeal to those with more modern tastes, while the second is by far the more traditional.

And for the even more modern, a dress loafer with an offset buckle, as made by Clarks...



http://www.clarksusa.com/eng/product/un_morris/82585

These are what I have, and love (mostly because Clarks are some of the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned, second to my docs). They are still quite new to me but fit like a sock and look great - they'll be getting a proper shine this weekend.

[MacLowlife]

MoR, I can tell you that stepping into a puddle with both feet is no picnic, either. My "velvet" slippers are ectually suede, which is just a little sturdier- and it smells even worse when you get it wet.




But calling me a gentleman is usually either an act of generosity or sarcasm...

[Matt Richards]

I'm interesting in getting a pair of the men's buckle shoes made by Jas. Townsend & Sons. Has anyone had any experience with them? How do they stack up against the Fugawee shoes? How is the fit -- do they run small or large as far as standard shoe sizes go? I see that Townsend only do straight last -- how hard are they to break in?

[Downunder Kilt]

I have a pair of the Jas Townsends straight lasted and find them fine to wear.
When I ordered them I told them my shoe size in Australian sizes and they knew the size to send. When you first get them and set the buckle they feel snug, after wearing them just once I found that I had to reset the buckle tighter as they do loosen up somewhat (about a quarter inch adjustment in my case) As for the straight last, yes it does feel weird a first, but I find no discomfort when wearing them. One word of caution, they are not a dress shoe, as in dancing pump. They are an outdoor shoe and are as heavy as good quality leather soled ghillie brogue. I also had the local cobbler put rubber heal soles on mine. I have also spit polished the toe area on mine without too much hassel