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  1. #1
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    A better setting for the Murray of Atholl

    I've been working on the older settings of some military tartans based on the Government sett. I've always found the setting for the 77th tartan (the Atholl Highlanders) and now simply called Murray of Atholl, somewhat unbalanced compared with that of the 78th. Apart from one red strip in the former being white in the latter, the difference between the two is the lack of a black guard to the red in the 77th/Atholl.

    I've recently had a length woven with the K guard added to the R too. I think it makes a more robust and visually pleasing setting. Thoughts?


  2. #2
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    The black guard sets off the red and gives the tartan a more dynamic look. I like it!
    Gu dùbhlanach
    Coinneach Mac Dhòmhnaill

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by figheadair View Post
    I've been working on the older settings of some military tartans based on the Government sett. I've always found the setting for the 77th tartan (the Atholl Highlanders) and now simply called Murray of Atholl, somewhat unbalanced compared with that of the 78th. Apart from one red strip in the former being white in the latter, the difference between the two is the lack of a black guard to the red in the 77th/Atholl.

    I've recently had a length woven with the K guard added to the R too. I think it makes a more robust and visually pleasing setting. Thoughts?

    Peter,

    The fabric looks great. What's the sett size?

    I agree with you and would be loathe to design any new tartan that didn't make use of black guards on red, white, or yellow stripes. The design may appear fine when woven in Modern or WOB colors, but the stripes tend to fade into the underlying color in the Ancient or Weathered color schemes. Yellow stripes on blue are particularly prone to this, although red on green doesn't fair well either.

    Interestingly enough, I had just pointed this out in a similar thread, here:

    http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...68/#post980970

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidlpope View Post
    Peter,

    The fabric looks great. What's the sett size?

    I agree with you and would be loathe to design any new tartan that didn't make use of black guards on red, white, or yellow stripes. The design may appear fine when woven in Modern or WOB colors, but the stripes tend to fade into the underlying color in the Ancient or Weathered color schemes. Yellow stripes on blue are particularly prone to this, although red on green doesn't fair well either.
    It's about a 12" sett complete with black selvedge mark and a coarse handle just like a piece of the period (late C18th).

    I'm toying with making it up but still have some of my own cloth that I'll probably use first so this piece might be up for grabs.

  5. #5
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    Atholl Highlanders Parade in Perthshire

    Greetings,

    I attended the Atholl Highlanders annual parade a couple of years ago at Blair Castle in Perthshire, and for those who haven't had the opportunity to observe this private army in action, they truly are a sight to behold. The Atholl men are spectacular Highland dancers, disciplined at drill, and are excellent pipers. I would highly recommend visiting Blair Atholl and Blair Castle in Perthshire during the summer months, it is a visit you surely would not forget.

    I have posted several photos I took of the Atholl Highlanders (in their very smart uniforms and accessories) and surrounding grounds of Blair Castle, ancestral home of the Dukes of Atholl (Am Moirreach Mor), Chiefs of the Clan Murray. I have always been very fond of the Murray of Atholl tartan, as I think the sett is perfect, the colours are handsome, and the overall effect of the tartan when pleated to the line in true regimental fashion, looks so beautiful with the strong red lines. I would leave the 'black guard' off - I think the addition of it is superfluous, however, this is only my honest opinion in terms of visual aesthetics of the overall sett design. I wouldn't change a thing!

    Please enjoy my photos - also note, many of the Atholl men wear plaids in what has always appeared to me as the weathered colours of the Murray of Atholl tartan (could simply be older tartan from a different mill than the tartan in their kilts), with their kilts in the modern colours (some do wear plaids that match their kilts better in terms of colour tone, and I tend to think they really don't care about matching 'colours' at all - it's what is issued to them, with many of these plaids and kilts being quite old and passed down from one Atholl man to another) - this looks outstanding to me and traditionally is quite correct, since technically, they are the same tartan, same sett, just a different tonality in colour. Personal example, sometime for evening attire I will wear my kilt in the Macpherson red modern tartan, with a 3 button waistcoat of Macpherson red ancient tartan, cut on the bias - I love this look! However, I would not combine different setts of the different Macpherson tartans - example, I wouldn't wear the kilt in the Macpherson dress tartan with a plaid, hose, or waistcoat in the colours of the Macpherson hunting modern, and I certainly wouldn't wear two completely different clan tartans at the same time, since I do have the Chattan (Confederation) tartan in my Highland wardrobe. I prefer to have the same sett throughout, perhaps in different colour variants, for evening/formal attire.












    Slainte mhath,
    Last edited by creagdhubh; 30th May 11 at 03:11 PM.

  6. #6
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    It's six of one ... The black guard certainly gives it a different appeal, but I'm not disappointed by the sett as it sits without the guards. I think I actually prefer it without, but like I say ... half a dozen of the next.

  7. #7
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    Although the current Atholl Highlanders' kilts are modern most of their plaids are still Wilsons' cloth c1840. I went through their chests earlier this year and it's amazing how many variations on a theme there are. Almost all the same setting but is=n widely different shades depending on when they were purchased. There were two main buy, one in about 1832 and another in 1848 for the Eglinton Match. There are also a couple of plaid in Murray Mansfield tartan there too.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by figheadair View Post
    Although the current Atholl Highlanders' kilts are modern most of their plaids are still Wilsons' cloth c1840. I went through their chests earlier this year and it's amazing how many variations on a theme there are. Almost all the same setting but is=n widely different shades depending on when they were purchased. There were two main buy, one in about 1832 and another in 1848 for the Eglinton Match. There are also a couple of plaid in Murray Mansfield tartan there too.
    Interesting indeed, thank you for sharing. The Murray of Atholl sett is one of the most beautiful tartans I know of, and it is quite the most simplest of setts. I just think the overall colour effect works so well - both up close, as well as from a distance. I have seen the Atholl Highlanders' Parade several times and am never disappointed - the fact that the regiment is still in a relatively active existence, truly is a magnificent survival through the centuries, and I am very pleased they are still around.

    Cheers,

  9. #9
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    Interesting to know...

    Quote Originally Posted by figheadair View Post
    Although the current Atholl Highlanders' kilts are modern most of their plaids are still Wilsons' cloth c1840. I went through their chests earlier this year and it's amazing how many variations on a theme there are. Almost all the same setting but is=n widely different shades depending on when they were purchased. There were two main buy, one in about 1832 and another in 1848 for the Eglinton Match. There are also a couple of plaid in Murray Mansfield tartan there too.
    I did notice that the plaids were not the same as the kilts (almost appeared to be a muted or Wilson's colors...I guess they are Wilson's...just not reproduction!) I also noted quite a bit of variation between the plaids even...at the outset I assumed that it might have something to do with the individual's tenure in the unit (like you can tell a seasoned US paratrooper by his faded maroon beret), but now I know that it's not fading from 30 years of wear, rather, possibly, 170+ years! Talk about tradition and lineage!
    "If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." -- Thomas Paine

    Scottish-American Military Society Post 1921

  10. #10
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    Any idea who the mill was that produced this fabric? I really like the shades of blue and green used. Looks like a "light" modern or a "dark" ancient, but the red is still a true red.

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