Cut Off Point

[xman]

I'm getting ready to sew a casual style kilt I've had in mind and have narrowed it down to a few different design elements. One thing I definitely want to avoid with it is having to cut away the fabric in the fell. My question is, at what point do I have to start cutting. Assuming an average waisted man, is 3 yards in the back too much to not cut? four yard box pleats manage well without cutting any, but the 6 yarders I have sewn seem to benefit from it. What say the more experienced? Could I get away with not cutting a 5 yard kilt?

X

[Paul Henry]

On my 5 or 6 yard kilts, I seldom cut out the excess if i am using a plain fabric,largely because I will make the pleat depth will be a little less, with a tartan cloth that is not always an option , and then I might trim a few pleats on each side of the pleat group, say the 2nd and 4th pleats. I've found that doing this keeps a little of the bulk in the rear, which helps the swing, especially when using less fabric.
If am making a machine stitched kilt, I will make sure that I sew thorugh all the layers, whihc means that I don't need to worry about stabilisers or canvas, as the whole back portion is effectively "one piece" now!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Assuming the kilt is for an average sized man (hips/waist under 46") I never cut out the fabric in a four yard kilt. I rarely cut out the fabric in a five yard kilt. I almost always cut out the fabric in a six yard kilt.

So my rule of thumb is that I expect to cut out the inside of the pleats on anything six yards or greater. But the final decision is really my judgment call after sewing up the pleats. I can feel the bulk of the cloth and just tell if it's going to be too bulky for wear without cutting out the pleats.

[RockyR]

Assuming the kilt is for an average sized man (hips/waist under 46") I never cut out the fabric in a four yard kilt. I rarely cut out the fabric in a five yard kilt. I almost always cut out the fabric in a six yard kilt.

So my rule of thumb is that I expect to cut out the inside of the pleats on anything six yards or greater. But the final decision is really my judgment call after sewing up the pleats. I can feel the bulk of the cloth and just tell if it's going to be too bulky for wear without cutting out the pleats.

Ditto Matt and Paul. Our 5 yarders are never cut out 7 and 8 yarders are. 6 yarders I rarely get requests for (unless it's a big guy in one of our 5 yarders, in which case I don't cut it out).

[xman]

I guess fabric weight would come in to play as well. 12oz fabric might not need cutting where a 16oz may.

[Pleater]

Also, some materials can be hammered flat with enough pressure from the iron, others which are less dense, or contain man made fibres which would be spoilt by the treatment need to be cut out if they are not to impart an inflated look to the fell.(AKA 'pillow butt)

Anne the Pleater :ootd: