Matt's 6yd knife-pleat kilts...

[davidlpope]

There have been several threads recently inquiring about fabric weight and kilt-yardage as they relate to hot weather and comfortable kilt-wearing. I've also received several inquiries asking for a little more info about a kilt style that I like to wear. I thought I'd start this thread to share my thoughts on a type of kilt that addresses both these concerns, while maintaining an appearance that is very attractive IMO.

If you're looking for a kilt that is comfortable, durable, traditionally styled, and crafted with excellent skill consider the 6 yard, heavy-weight knife-pleated kilts made by Matt Newsome. I've owned many of Matt's kilts (4yd BP, 5 and 6yd KP) throughout the years, but these have become my hands-down favorites. Here's why:

1. I really think that 16oz fabric is definitely the best for kilts. The fabric holds pleats better and it is more hard-wearing than lighter weight fabrics. Additionally, it is often available in a wider range of tartans than 13oz. fabrics.

2. I believe that 8yds of 16oz fabric is just too much to put in a kilt that will be worn in hot weather. Figuring 2yds for the overapron/underapron leaves roughly 6yds of fabric to squeeze into 1/2 my hip measurement- approx. 21". The result is that the sheer weight of the back of the kilt is a constant tugging presence. I'm convinced that this is one of the main reasons that most kilts that one sees are worn too low. After 3 hours walking around at a highland games, gravity ultimately wins. The 6yd knife-pleated kilt offers a garment that is balanced and comfortable to wear, whether its walking, sitting, or driving in a car.

3. Because these kilts use less fabric, they are less expensive than an 8yd, 16oz handsewn "tank".

4. They still look like a traditional 8yd knife-pleated kilt (which to my mind is a GOOD thing).

5. Matt's service and craftsmanship are excellent. I have yet to be disappointed with one of his kilts.

In my mind, though, the trick to a really great "low-yardage" knife-pleat kilt is making sure that there are enough pleats across the back of it so that it doesn't stand out from other 8-yd kilts, while removing as much excess fabric as possible to make it more comfortable and balanced. To get the "optimum effect' you'll need to take into account two things: 1) your hip measurement and 2) the sett size of the fabric you're using for the kilt.

If you are larger, you will need more total pleats so that the width of each pleat is not too big. If you are pleating to the line (which is what I recommend for low-yardage knife pleat kilts) then the number of pleats in the back will also be a function of the sett size of the tartan, i.e. a smaller sett size will result in more pleats for the same yardage used. An ideal sett size for a knife pleat would be about 6-7 inches.

My favorite kilt of this type is the Carolina tartan 6-yd knife pleat that Matt made for me. It's in heavyweight Dalgliesh fabric, the tartan has a sett size of 8 inches, and has 18 pleats. My hip measurement is about 43". This combination results in a kilt that is very comfortable to wear but would not be picked out of a crowd as looking any different than an 8-yd knife pleated kilt. To me, that's what you're shooting for.

Here are some photos of the kilt so that you can see for yourself:

[cruiser348]

I don't see a picture.

[davidlpope]

I don't see a picture.

Try it now.

[longhuntr74]

Question for David or Matt...

What size is the reveal on a 6 yard kilt pleat? According to Barb's book, pleats on a 8 yard should be less than an inch...ideally about 5/8" to 3/4" if I recall correctly. I'm guessing that the reveal on a 6 yarder ends up being more like 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches?

How many pleats do your six yard kilts typically have?

I understand that the reveal and number of pleats is largely a function of the size of the sett and the type of pleating, but I'm trying to get a sense of the norm, as my next kilt that I make will most likely be a lower yardage kilt. Don't get me wrong...I love my 8 yard tank, but I prefer to wear my 4 yard box pleat for casual/games wear. I totally agree with David's thoughts about the weight of 6 yards of fabric on your backside.

[cdarwin]

That kilt is stunning.

[azwildcat96]

David, great review of Matts' kilts. One thing that really sticks out in your pictures is that the kilt doesn't appear to have any wrinkles or creases (it looks pristine), yet the jacket does, indicating to me that you were at some point sitting down (probably on the drive to whereever you were). This speaks volumes to the fact that the added weight of a 16oz wool fabric helps pull the wrinkles out.

[Dale Seago]

One thing that really sticks out in your pictures is that the kilt doesn't appear to have any wrinkles or creases (it looks pristine), yet the jacket does, indicating to me that you were at some point sitting down (probably on the drive to whereever you were). This speaks volumes to the fact that the added weight of a 16oz wool fabric helps pull the wrinkles out.

I've had two of Matt's 6-yard knife pleat kilts in 16-oz fabric for a couple of months now and have been wearing one or the other (because they're my favorite and newest) every weekend and sometimes a bit during the week as well. This has also included a good deal of driving, sitting through dinners or movies, etc. I'm of course careful about how I sit down; still, I have yet to see a single wrinkled or creased pleat on either kilt upon taking it off.

[creagdhubh]

I've had two of Matt's 6-yard knife pleat kilts in 16-oz fabric for a couple of months now and have been wearing one or the other (because they're my favorite and newest) every weekend and sometimes a bit during the week as well. This has also included a good deal of driving, sitting through dinners or movies, etc. I'm of course careful about how I sit down; still, I have yet to see a single wrinkled or creased pleat on either kilt upon taking it off.

Wonderful! Yes, heavyweight worsted wool is always the way to go for outstanding kilting fabric!!! I would never wear anything else!

[creagdhubh]

David, great review of Matts' kilts. One thing that really sticks out in your pictures is that the kilt doesn't appear to have any wrinkles or creases (it looks pristine), yet the jacket does, indicating to me that you were at some point sitting down (probably on the drive to whereever you were). This speaks volumes to the fact that the added weight of a 16oz wool fabric helps pull the wrinkles out.

I hope David brings a nice wooden, suit hanger for his jacket and hangs it in his car on the drive in to various Highland games and gatherings! Just kidding with you David, however, that is precisely what I do. I realize this is a bit off topic, but I never wear my tweed, barathea, or velvet jackets/doublets whilst driving - I always hang the jacket or doublet in the rear of my car, then put it on upon arriving to my destination. Now, if I am wearing a waistcoat as well (and I usually am - naturally depending on the weather, yet always with evening attire), then yes, I will wear that whilst driving as it seldom becomes wrinkled.

So David, where did those wrinkles in your smart tweed come from?!

Cheers,

[azwildcat96]

I hope David brings a nice wooden, suit hanger for his jacket and hangs it in his car on the drive in to various Highland games and gatherings! Just kidding with you David, however, that is precisely what I do. I realize this is a bit off topic, but I never wear my tweed, barathea, or velvet jackets/doublets whilst driving - I always hang the jacket or doublet in the rear of my car, then put it on upon arriving to my destination. Now, if I am wearing a waistcoat as well (and I usually am - naturally depending on the weather, yet always with evening attire), then yes, I will wear that whilst driving as it seldom becomes wrinkled.

So David, where did those wrinkles in your smart tweed come from?!

Cheers,

Wow! Rough crowd! I wasn't pointing out the jacket wrinkles for any other reason than to show that the kilt fabric relaxed under its' own weight! No offense was implied.