Hems

[BCAC]

I've seen two contradictory statements, both by very well known (on here) and well respected kilt makers.

One said that that a traditional kilt is not supposed to be hemmed and the other essentially said that other kilt makers don't hem their kilts because they're too lazy and that this kilt maker estimates that their clients merit that the extra work is done to hem the kilt by hand to favorise swing, fluidity and esthetic equality.

Who's right?

These are two very respected kilt makers. I'll NOT name names (this is not a slanging match (my kilt makers better than yours, sort of thing)).

I've got a hemmed kilt and a non hemmed kilt and I don't think that it makes much difference but it just surprised me to see two very good, well respected kilt makers saying dramatically opposed things.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Well, I can attest to the fact that traditionally and historically, Scottish Highland kilts have not been hemmed. They are made from fabric that is woven with a selvage and the kilt is made using the woven selvage of the fabric as the bottom edge of the kilt.

Historical note: Once upon a time, the TOP of the kilt also was made using the selvage of the cloth. The length of the kilt was the entire width of the cloth (typically about 25"), selvage-to-selvage, irrespective of the wearer's height. The bottom of the kilt was always worn knee length, and shorter men simply wore the kilt higher on the waist.

Today, however, the kilt is made to length, meaning the top of the kilt now has a waist band to cover the cut end of the cloth. The bottom of the kilt, however, is still traditionally made with the selvage of the cloth.

Reasons your kilt may be hemmed:
1) If it is made from cloth that was not woven with a selvage. If you kilt is made from cloth that was not specifically woven for kilt making, this is likely to happen. For example, I've had to put hems in kilts made from certain tweeds that did not have a woven selvage.
2) If your kilt has had to be shortened in length by you or a previous owner. The best (and most diffucult/costly) way to shorten a kilt is from the top down, but this is very labor intensive. So many people choose the quicker and less costly alternative of hemming the bottom of the kilt.

[xman]

I've also heard that dancers, who traditionally wear lighter weight wool, can benefit from a hem because it does add weight and improve the 'bounce' of the kilt which may be more attractive to judges. Not knowing anything about judging Highland Dance I cannot personally corroborate that notion, but it seems quite sound to me.

[Pleater]

It seems a little foolish to try to lay down the rules when it might prove impossible to follow them.

A fabric might require a hem if it has no selvedge or one that couldn't be shown, or if the edge of the fabric just didn't look right.

If the fabric has a perfect selvedge then it would be a waste of effort to hem it, except when it might give some other benefit such as the extra swing on a dancer's kilt.

Also if a man has a tall son, it might be worth having a kilt with a hem made, so it could be let down. Kilts being quite sturdy garments it would be wise to think of the next generation.

The old adage that you must cut your coat according to the cloth applies just as well to kilts.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Dixiecat]

I've also heard that dancers, who traditionally wear lighter weight wool, can benefit from a hem because it does add weight and improve the 'bounce' of the kilt which may be more attractive to judges. Not knowing anything about judging Highland Dance I cannot personally corroborate that notion, but it seems quite sound to me.

Just because you asked, I'll say that judges don't care about the swing or bounce of a kilt other than answering the question of 'does the dancer's attire confirm with the dress code?' The code only states that any clan, family or district tartan can be worn; length is to top of the knee, and males may (if they wish) wear a kilt pin. Even still, if the answer to this question is no, a judge may only take 5 points from a dancer.

Dancers are judged on Technique, Timing and Deportment.

But, even though a lighter weight kilt does benefit from a hem, the most common reason you'll see hems on a dancer's kilt, is growing room. Most dancer's these days start young and would like to get a few years worth of use out of a kilt. It's pretty common to see 2"-6" of hem.

[ForresterModern]

One other reason to hem a kilt is if it is being buit in anticipation of needing to be "let out" over time as a youngster grows. Bonnie Heather Greene built my 3 year old's custom kilt with several built in features that would allow for it to be easily altered over time as he grows, such that it may fit him for another 8-10 years only with some relatively simple alterations using the flexibility of those built in features, one of which is a hem of several inches.

[BCAC]

Thanks for these replies.

It seems that my kilt maker made me a kilt (with a rather large hem) and then lied to me when I asked a question about the hem.

It's not a big problem. The kilt is OK, but because it was a prestige kilt maker with a VERY good reputation (and, consequently, a very long jones and a relatively high price) it's just surprising.

You live and learn.

[davidg]

It looks like your kilt maker may not be as reputable as you thought unless he can come up with a better reason than he has done for hemming the kilt

Whilst a hem is standard for children's kilts it is not so for adult kilts, as Matt has already said. It suggests that there is something you are not being told by your supplier. Perhaps they got the length wrong and decided to hem it up hoping you wouldn't notice. Perhaps there was a problem with the selvedge (as can happen with the cheaper mills) and they decided to hem in order to disguise that. Whatever the reason you should have been properly informed

If it were me, and assuming this is a made to measure quality garment, I would insist that they rectify the problem which is not impossible to do even at this stage (although it will be a lot of work for them)

[Hothir Ethelnor]

I have heard that some kiltmakers like to hem their kilts to achieve a more pleasing layout of colours at the hem so that you don't have a bright thin stripe at the bottom of your kilt or something of that sort.

Also some people are picky about the tuck in selvage and would prefer a hemmed kilt over the line of fuzz seen.

[davidg]

I have heard that some kiltmakers like to hem their kilts to achieve a more pleasing layout of colours at the hem so that you don't have a bright thin stripe at the bottom of your kilt or something of that sort.

Also some people are picky about the tuck in selvage and would prefer a hemmed kilt over the line of fuzz seen.

Perhaps it's different in the US but here in Scotland I would expect a traditional kilt maker to make a traditional kilt, which means no hem. If I was picky about the selvedge then I would say so, not expect the kilt maker to make the decision on my behalf

There is actually nothing wrong with a hem if that's what you want, although it does make the bottom of the kilt somewhat bulkier and can interfere slightly with the pleating, especially on heavyweight cloth, But, as a kilt maker myself, I would not dream of changing tradition without asking the customer first