Inverness Cape-The History/Whys

[Mr.Charles Anthony]

X-Markers:
Enquireing minds ask: why is the over-coat for the Kilt called a "Inverness Cape" & not "Coat"? ; should it not be ab Inverness Caped Coat? A Cape is a collar; Dracular wears a cloak. The Inverness has two collars, one short, one to the wrist.{the 2nd collar is sometimes called a caplete}
Next, how did we come by its use in circa 2011? It was 'standard issue' for most of the 19th Century in men's wear. breeks, trowsers, or kilt. Is its use a continuation of that fashion, or did its use fall off and then come back again? And what is this insistance on 'no sleeves'? historically, the coat could/did/or not/ use sleeves.
And is the name of 'Inverness' also the town of origin, or the name of the man who could not sew a sleeve into a coat, and thus sold a 'new fashion trend'?
Lastly, I use my Repro Civil War GreatCoat, or my Repro 1770 GreatCoat:both with sleeves & both with the elbow lenght capes, for kilt use. Is this a Major Social Infraction of Kilt Fashion, to wear a neo Inverness coat with its sleeves?? I do know it is a deal warmer.
I heard some malarky about the sleevless overcoat being easier to find your sporran. A man in a long, funny looking coat fumbling near his 'courting-tackle' in public does not seem like a good idea! LOL!
Ergo! Can any one weigh in on the Origins & Use of the Inverness Caped Coat in Scots useage??

[Sir William]

I can't answer your question concerning the why and wherefores of the Inverness cape, but I own one as well as a colonial greatcoat.

When I wear a kilt jacket I actually prefer the Inverness cape as I have more freedom of movement for my arms and I'm usually more than warm enough, especially if I'm moving about.

My greatcoat has plenty of room to accept the sleeves of a kilt jacket or frock coat, but I just find the Inverness cape to be a bit more comfortable when wearing a coat or jacket underneath it.

I personally don't have any issues with the greatcoat being worn with a kilt. Its a good looking garment and warm when its cold out. Most people probably wouldn't notice the difference, let alone care.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

An Inverness, as you have pointed out, has no arms. If it did, it would be called an Ulster. Both have remained in fashion down to this very day, although the use of water proof fabrics (Gore-Tex, waxed cotton, etc.) and synthetic insulation materials have relegated both these styles of outer garment nearly obsolete as far as off the peg sales are concerned. That said, Burberry used to sell an Ulster made from the light weight material used in their ubiquitous trench coats.

As an owner of both an Inverness and an Ulster, I find the Inverness less restricting (rather like a poncho) and the Ulster to be warmer. Neither is particularly useful in the rain as they get soggy and tend to weigh one down. For general rain wear I find that a wax jacket with shoulder cape (such as a Drizabone drover's jacket) is the best option for wear with a kilt.

[fluter]

An Inverness, as you have pointed out, has no arms. If it did, it would be called an Ulster.

I seem to recall reading---subject to correction from anyone with better memory/sources---that the Inverness evolved from the Ulster circa 1880.

At mid-century (nineteenth), I think the Ulster could be said to have been "standard issue."

[Riverkilt]

Wear my replica Union cavalry greatcoat with my kilts...have thought about removing the sleeves to make it more of an Inverness look - but decided it would just look silly then and I do enjoy the warmth of the sleeves.

[ForresterModern]

Older styles of capes and cloaks were simply designed and not specifically sized garments that utilized one (or occasionally two) front closure devices (clasps or ornate hook and ring) near but well below the neck, but whose front was otherwise unadorned and unfastened and relied on redundant hanging fabric overlap of the left and right front edges for coverage and warmth in the slower days of walking or riding in a carriage. Coats seem to have come into more common usage with true crossover and formal multiple button closures over time, probably because they could be made lighter and with more efficient use of fabric due to the more effective coverage of fixed, reliable, long rows of closure buttons, as well as more likely being more functionally suitable for actual necessary activities, such as loading rifles and such. Cloaks with their inherently redundant fabric nature likely simply got in the way of necessary functions over time.
Wool fabric has an inherent repellence to water at least in part due to its natural oils/lanolin content, expecially the relatively unwashed of olden days, something that was lost through the years as fabric manufacture became more refined and the natural oils got washed out in fabric preparation. Its remaining inherent water repellancy became less than ideal for all but the lightest of precipitation necessitating the later switch to more truly waterproof materials such as the oilskin of a cowboy's rain duster or rubberized Mackintosh type materials, eventually leading to modern gortex type materials. Cloaks in their latter days with their extra redundant wool fabric soaking up water and becoming heavy, but still warm, simply lost their original functional advantage over time, first to buttoned and subsequently zippered closure designs utilizing more waterpoof materials more efficiently. But IMHO along the way they lost a lot in style, another example of form versus function.

[Sir William]

Older styles of capes and cloaks were simply designed and not specifically sized garments that utilized one (or occasionally two) front closure devices (clasps or ornate hook and ring) near but well below the neck, but whose front was otherwise unadorned and unfastened and relied on redundant hanging fabric overlap of the left and right front edges for coverage and warmth in the slower days of walking or riding in a carriage. Coats seem to have come into more common usage with true crossover and formal multiple button closures over time, probably because they could be made lighter and with more efficient use of fabric due to the more effective coverage of fixed, reliable, long rows of closure buttons, as well as more likely being more functionally suitable for actual necessary activities, such as loading rifles and such. Cloaks with their inherently redundant fabric nature likely simply got in the way of necessary functions over time.
....

Very well put. I began wondering (after I sent my post) if perhaps the "Inverness Cape" style coat developed as an "improvement" on the plain cape, in that it allowed more freedom to use the arms while being worn, while still keeping the body warm and dry.

[creagdhubh]

I like both the Inverness and the Ulster. Kinloch-Anderson sells Inverness capes in a large variety of tweeds and your choice of button style. Very smart indeed!

Cheers,