DIY - First Kilt

**Dilbert16588** · 18th April 12, 01:23 PM

Hi everyone, after months of using this site and Barb's book for references and learning, I'm finally digging in and sewing my first kilt.

DISCLAIMER: So there's no confusion, a quick clarification. This first kilt is not for me, but my brother as a gift. I have plenty of material and will be making myself one once I finish his first. (Mine will be pleated to the sett however) My brother does not sew, has no inclination to sew, and lastly it is a Christmas gift for him last year (I'm a bit behind on time!) Yes, I have a part-time costume business, however this kilt has nothing to do with the business, is not being sold, nor I do not advertize myself as a kilt maker either. It simply places me in a unique situation and just wanted to state it up front.

The fabric I am using is a plaid I found at Walmart for about $2/yd, so I grabbed a good bit with the intent of using it as a cheaper material to attempt sewing a kilt for myself and my brother. It is not a true tartan, as it has a slight rectangular shape to the plaid but I felt it worked well to start. Here's a picture of it. The other major thing is the full repeat is incredibly tiny - just shy "3. It's a very busy semi-tartan but I felt the price was right for learning to sew a kilt.

This kilt, I've decided to pleat to the red stripe, but since it's such a light-weight material (appears to be a wool, or possibly cotton/wool blend) I'm adding a full repeat in each pleat to add some depth and weight to the pleats.

Once I figured out the measurements, the splits, and such, I began the basting and laying out of the tartan last weekend. I started stitching the pleats down and have 10 pleats done so far, with 21 left to go! Thankfully they're getting faster as I go and my fingers learn the steps. Here's a pic of the progress so far. Note, there is about a 1/32" shaping to the pleats which has been tricky because it's almost equal.

Note - I just realized that the one pleat about midway across is not perfect... the perfectionist in me is screaming to go back and restitch but I'm really wanting to let it be as in the overall pleats I think it will blend in and might relax some after pressing. Ideas? Suggestions?

**Aspiringloser** · 18th April 12, 04:31 PM

I say rip it and go back and do that pleat over. You won't be sorry, I promise.

**Dilbert16588** · 18th April 12, 06:27 PM

If I hadn't pointed it out, would it be that noticeable? Then again, I'm wondering if I could go back and rip just that one out and resew instead of everyone since... hmmm...

**David Thorpe** · 18th April 12, 06:46 PM

I got my second pleat in after seven rip-outs. Discovered that the problem was the first pleat.

There's a steep learning curve in pleating, but it's worth the ride. Practice is only useful if you're doing it right, IMHO.

**Elf** · 19th April 12, 02:41 PM

Yes, ditto to all the above. Best wishes for a successful venture. Just to add my moral support, I just ripped out pleats again myself. It takes a while to sew the kilt, but nothing compared to the time one will spend enjoying it (or regretting not having made it the best possible). What you have shared so far looks excellent.

**Dilbert16588** · 19th April 12, 04:05 PM

I'm glad for the advice and I know they take time to perfect, I'm just irritated I didn't notice it until now! I think I'll make an attempt to pick out and resew just the one pleat that tapers inversely and try that before undoing each one.

The other thing that keeps me wondering is - how far do you go before you're over-analyzing and nit-picking? I see other smaller mistakes that aren't visible unless you're almost 3" away from the pleat but look fine from a normal viewing distance. Do I go back and redo those to make it as perfect as possible (what my perfectionist is telling me) or do I be realistic and let them slide, making sure I don't make the same mistake in the other pleats? It's like the comic image of the devil on one shoulder and the angel on the other!

Regardless, it's time to relax with a cold beer and work more on the kilt!

**Elf** · 20th April 12, 12:37 PM

Originally Posted by Dilbert16588

The other thing that keeps me wondering is - how far do you go before you're over-analyzing and nit-picking? I see other smaller mistakes that aren't visible unless you're almost 3" away from the pleat but look fine from a normal viewing distance. Do I go back and redo those to make it as perfect as possible (what my perfectionist is telling me) or do I be realistic and let them slide, making sure I don't make the same mistake in the other pleats? It's like the comic image of the devil on one shoulder and the angel on the other!

In my regular life as a historical re-enactor, the arch-question is to handsew or use a machine. Many use the latter on hidden seams. I tend to completely handsew since I can work without electricity. I was however given the ultimate reality check:

"If the public are close enough to tell; they are just too close."

I agree, the overall effect, particularly of the stripes when viewed from a distance is the most crucial thing. I have to let little things go, yet I am kicking myself for this morning's discovery that I'd bought buckles that are too small. If it's not one thing it's another. (pardon, if i'm using your thread for my venting)

Keep up the good fight.

**Dixiecat** · 20th April 12, 01:47 PM

I know that the opinion has been offered to let that one pleat slide, but I'm going to have to go with the rip it out view. A wonky pleat doesn't just look wonky, it can affect the overall measurement if it's too wide or too narrow. It sometimes can be more work trying to compensate for that one pleat. Ask me how I know.....

Looks good though!

**Aspiringloser** · 19th April 12, 04:10 PM

You have to let some things slide. Don't sweat each pleat. As long as the overall effect is pleasing, you've done a good job. I still have slightly wandering pleat edges or even slightly wandering stripes. As long as the appearance is that the stripes are evenly spaced, I usually let it go. No one should have they're nose on your *** inspecting your pleats. You can be as anal as you'd like about your pleats, you're making the kilt, but there will come a point when your work won't improve and you'll just be frustrating yourself. You have to decide for yourself when you've reached that point, no one can really make that decision for you. Keep at it, it gets a little easier each time you do it.

**Alan H** · 6th June 12, 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by Aspiringloser

You have to let some things slide. Don't sweat each pleat. As long as the overall effect is pleasing, you've done a good job. I still have slightly wandering pleat edges or even slightly wandering stripes. As long as the appearance is that the stripes are evenly spaced, I usually let it go. No one should have they're nose on your *** inspecting your pleats. You can be as anal as you'd like about your pleats, you're making the kilt, but there will come a point when your work won't improve and you'll just be frustrating yourself. You have to decide for yourself when you've reached that point, no one can really make that decision for you. Keep at it, it gets a little easier each time you do it.

This. Perfectly said.....two thumbs up.