"Traditional" regulation doublet?

[JWLC]

Hi all,

Some months ago I picked this vintage doublet on eBay . I've seen on the forum photos of jackets resembling this one, which leads me to wonder whether this might have been some sort of early regulation doublet after all, as opposed to the Prince Charlie facsimile as we know it.

It differs from the 'modern' regulation doublet in that the tashes run across the entire front hem. The lapels and epaulettes are self material and more notably, it has a single-breasted effect (The front buttonholes are false).
It originally came without buttons attached; having eyelets where they were meant to go. I bought those from Three Feathers Pewter. Unfortunately, no waistcoat was included, but I can wear it with a black or white evening waistcoat I already own.

Here is the front and rear:




There's a bit of history to it with the owner's name and the year 1935 on the label. It would make for interesting research. He was obviously a military man based on the loops on the lapel for a medal bar.



For the tidy sum of £26 I really struck gold. It was made by Meyer & Mortimer and obviously bespoke. It really is in outstanding condition at 77 years old. There's only moth-hole on the cuff and the silk cording on the tashes had partly come loose. It's made of rather sturdy barathea or twill with a quilted lining.

More importantly, it literally fits me like a glove! There is no size on the doublet itself but the listing described it as a 38" chest, which I am. The height is perfect with the body (above the tashes) ending at my waistline. Worn with a waistcoat it's rather snug, with the edges barely touching. If anything, the sleeves are rather long, ending almost at my knuckles.

Obviously, it should more than do the job more black-tie; or white-tie functions for that matter.
Here's the catch though; can it pass as Highland morning wear? It bears passing similarity to a black Argyll; and I thought it might do the job were I to swap the buttons for bone or leather ones, and team it with a day waistcoat.

Has anyone ever seen, or owned, a doublet of this sort? Or for that matter, whether something this unique is still produced? It doesn't look like something you can easily purchase off-the-peg, and the fact that it detracts from the whole cookie-cutter look really appealed to me. Because I'm quite ready to spend a fortune on Highland wear I really was quite lucky.

[JSFMACLJR]

Hello,
I'm afraid that none of the photos are viewable.

Meyer & Mortimer is one of the best--perhaps the best-- bespoke tailors that specialise in Highland dress. Going by your description it sounds as if you have a gem of a doublet, made up in the "older" style. I much prefer that form of doublet over the more modern style of regulation doublet, with the front made like a tail coat. Hopefully you can get the photos up and running!

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I'd suggest you have the cuffs raised enough so what when doublet is worn you are able to show about 3/4-inch of cuff. Any photo of HRH the Duke of Windsor, or Fred Astair, in white tie will show you where your cuffs should line up in relation to your wrist/hand.

Although I haven't seen your photos, I suspect that your doublet is strictly an item of formal evening attire, and that for more formal day wear you may want to spend your "surplus" funds on a finely made-to-measure or bespoke Argyll jacket. You might also want to check out the Army Lists for the period 1914 - 1935 to track down a bit of information about the original owner of your doublet.

[CMcG]

...
Obviously, it should more than do the job more black-tie; or white-tie functions for that matter.
Here's the catch though; can it pass as Highland morning wear? It bears passing similarity to a black Argyll; and I thought it might do the job were I to swap the buttons for bone or leather ones, and team it with a day waistcoat.

Has anyone ever seen, or owned, a doublet of this sort? Or for that matter, whether something this unique is still produced? It doesn't look like something you can easily purchase off-the-peg, and the fact that it detracts from the whole cookie-cutter look really appealed to me. Because I'm quite ready to spend a fortune on Highland wear I really was quite lucky.

That is a very nice score indeed... good ol' eBay, eh?

I have seen other Xmarkers with similar, second hand, regulation doublets. There are a number of places to buy a jacket like that and, though the current off-the-rack take on it is a little bit different in terms of button or tash placement, one could always have it made up to resemble yours if they were to go bespoke. It is definitely a sharp looking alternative to the ubiquitous Prince Charlie.

Traditionally, that is is an evening wear jacket and I don't think it would be worn for morning attire. I think the formality of your regulation doublet would clash if you put leather or horn buttons on it Formal day wear would instead be a black, dress Argyll with silver buttons, which can also be found quite cheaply on eBay.

[Downunder Kilt]

JWLC, below is a photo of a modern day regulation doublet that I picked up from Ebay
You will see that the front inverness flap do not meet in the middle of the front as yours do and the front button styling on mine is of the style found on Prince Charlie jackets. In fact when I got mine it was suggested by one of the members here, MOR I think, that I should have it converted to the button closure style that you have on yours. The rear of mine is exactly as your is. I think you got an excellent buy. As others have said, it is strictly a black/white tie jacket

[Jock Scot]

As we are talking "top drawer" and "Rolls Royce" here, the thought occurs to me that you need to have a good look at those buttons. IF they are original, IF, I say again, they could well be silver, have a good look for hallmarks, just in case. Failing that, they could still be older than most buttons on Highland wear, even if they are silver plated(?), or, some shiny silver colour, or quite likely, someone has replaced the originals with modern ones. Shame one is missing just the same.

[CMcG]

...
It originally came without buttons attached; having eyelets where they were meant to go. I bought those from Three Feathers Pewter.

As we are talking "top drawer" and "Rolls Royce" here, the thought occurs to me that you need to have a good look at those buttons. IF they are original, IF, I say again, they could well be silver, have a good look for hallmarks, just in case. Failing that, they could still be older than most buttons on Highland wear, even if they are silver plated(?), or, some shiny silver colour, or quite likely, someone has replaced the originals with modern ones. Shame one is missing just the same.

As per what JWLC wrote in his OP, I think he added those buttons afterwards and that they are not silver. Good eye on the missing one at the back though, which apparently he overlooked

[MacLowlife]

JWLC,

You are a lucky man, indeed. I hope that you will either have your own set of gongs to hang on those loops or that you can carefully remove them. You might contact M&M and see what they would charge to re-face the lapels. Unless you are older than 35, I am afraid it is traditional in many places for middle aged weight gain to make this jacket too small for you- keep that in mind when you start indulging. The open front will carry you for a while, but you may find your shoulders will outgrow it. Until then- may you wear it in good health.

[Glen]

I think it is a wonderful jacket. The facings don't need to be changed for black, or white, tie, unless you want.

As you put it lapels and epaulettes are self material, I do think it would work for day wear as well.

JWLC,

You are a lucky man, indeed. I hope that you will either have your own set of gongs to hang on those loops or that you can carefully remove them. You might contact M&M and see what they would charge to re-face the lapels. Unless you are older than 35, I am afraid it is traditional in many places for middle aged weight gain to make this jacket too small for you- keep that in mind when you start indulging. The open front will carry you for a while, but you may find your shoulders will outgrow it. Until then- may you wear it in good health.

And, if you should suffer middle aged weight gain, I am sure that there will be willing xmarkers to take it off your hands...

[JWLC]

Oops, apologies to those who read the thread first but I finally managed to get the photos up!

JWLC, below is a photo of a modern day regulation doublet that I picked up from Ebay
You will see that the front inverness flap do not meet in the middle of the front as yours do and the front button styling on mine is of the style found on Prince Charlie jackets. In fact when I got mine it was suggested by one of the members here, MOR I think, that I should have it converted to the button closure style that you have on yours. The rear of mine is exactly as your is. I think you got an excellent buy. As others have said, it is strictly a black/white tie jacket

Downunder, even that style of regulation doublet seems to be rather scare on eBay; you did well to find yours too! To be honest, I was a bit suspicious of mine as it was listed as a "Bonne Prince Charlie jacket" but was thrown off by the differences in detail. I'm glad I ended up with this rather than "another"

As per what JWLC wrote in his OP, I think he added those buttons afterwards and that they are not silver. Good eye on the missing one at the back though, which apparently he overlooked

CMcG is correct, Jock Scot, unfortunately the buttons aren't original real silver; but replacements that I purchased from Three Feathers Pewter and attached with split rings. I imagine it would've upped the value considerably otherwise!
I did overlook one of them, which is still packed away, thanks for noticing.

You are a lucky man, indeed. I hope that you will either have your own set of gongs to hang on those loops or that you can carefully remove them. You might contact M&M and see what they would charge to re-face the lapels. Unless you are older than 35, I am afraid it is traditional in many places for middle aged weight gain to make this jacket too small for you- keep that in mind when you start indulging. The open front will carry you for a while, but you may find your shoulders will outgrow it. Until then- may you wear it in good health.

Thanks for the kind words MacLowlife. Hopefully it will eventually be the former as I'd hate to destroy a piece of history by removing the loops! I've only been to one black-tie event where decorations (and Highland wear!) were worn.
I could contact M&M about a lapel re-facing, as you suggested. I'm not sure whether the lapels should be done in silk, for example.
I'm only 23 and rather slightly-built at that, so hopefully it'll last me quite some time. As it is the armholes are rather high, and I don't expect to fill out even the shoulders for another 2 decades, fingers crossed. :S

Thanks to everyone for your feedback so far. Turns out there has been different opinions about the whole day/evening wear appropriateness for this jacket. I won't be attending any day events of that formality so it on't be an issue yet.
I've always cringed at the idea of wearing of evening wear during the day; I hope it wouldn't apply in this case.

I have a few black-tie dos coming up in the next few months; so photo of me wearing it should be on its way!