Hair Canvas Alternative for PV Kilts

[auld argonian]

Okay...suppose that I have this "friend".....who picked up a very reasonably priced six yard PV kilt for those days when the temperature is above 90 F here in the Midwest...and that my "friend" figured has to have the straps and buckles moved for a better fit and figures that he might as well ask the tailor to put in something to act as a stabilizer while he's at it (no stabilizer or canvas in this puppy to begin with...it was a quickie and a cheapie).

Looking at what I assume is the "right stuff", the Pellon HC110 (fellow darkroom workers will experience the same deja vu that I did here), I note that it's pretty heavy duty...is there another product that will work that's better matched to the lighter weight of the PV?

Best

AA

[Baldybrown]

I agonized over a source for hair canvas for weeks before I stumbled on Vogue Fabrics. I placed the order and two days later was able to finish my xmarks tartan kilt. Good product, great service.

[auld argonian]

Thanks, but it's not a question of being able to obtain the hair canvas, it's more a question of finding something that will do the job adequately but be lighter weight. With the wool the weight of the hair canvas seems right but with the PV it seems to me that it would be too much...sort of like joining two pieces of 1X2 lumber with a piece of 2X4. Just wondering if there's a lighter grade of hair canvas or some other form of interfacing that will work...it just has to be adequate not industrial strength...this is definitely not one of those kilts that will come under that "heirloom" classification, it's more of a knockabout model.

Best

AA

[Paul Henry]

I use the same hair canvas whether I am making a 13 oz wool, 16 oz wool, or 11 oz PV, so I don't think there be much of an issue really. However tailors canvas does come in different weights, I'm inthe UK so not much use regarding suppliers but have a look at this site whihc might give you some ideas, they are the supplier I use mostly. http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/C...loringCanvases

[Aspiringloser]

http://www.bblackandsons.com/heavy-w...ral-p-426.html
This is what I use regardless which fabric I'm making a kilt from. This was suggested to me by Barb T. Perhaps you could find something more lightweight on their website if you wanted to look around.

[auld argonian]

So...there ARE several different weights of hair canvas...I had the impression that there was only one and it was the heavy weight. This makes it easier...I see that Vogue Fabrics carries the stuff and, fortunately, they're in Chicago and very accessible from my train station...there's a rare break! Nice because I can get a look at the stuff and see what the different weights are like...could very well be that the heavy weight is the best choice but I'd like to see some light and medium first...

Best

AA

[David Thorpe]

I'm no expert -- just a beginner, but it seems to me like stiffness is a more important factor than weight in choosing canvas.

[The Wizard of BC]

I posted this same info over on another thread but it is just a appropriate to this question.


There are two components which make up the internal construction of a kilt. They are the stabilizer and the interfacing. The stabilizer is a small strip usually of broadcloth that goes between the two back buckles. The interfacing is the large strip which spans the entire kilt from the left edge of the under-apron all the way to the right edge of the outer-apron. The straps are anchored to the interfacing. It is the interfacing that is normally, today, made from hair canvas.

In the old military kilts that I have been re-conditioning for the Canadian Scottish Regiment both the stabilizer and the interfacing are made from a medium weight cotton canvas. This looks sort of like a cotton gunny sack fabric. It is actually sailcloth. This stuff did its job for almost 60 years just fine.

If you cannot find hair canvas there is no reason you could not make the stabilizer and interfacing both from cotton broadcloth.

The thing you MUST look for is a fabric that does not stretch. Not at all. If you grab the fabric and pull, it should not have any give.

In a pinch you could use an old sheet or pillowcase. I'll warn you though, sheeting is hard stuff to sew through.

Almost every fabric store will carry cotton broadcloth. The price is usually minimal. Many have prints on them. This would allow you to add a personal touch to your kilts. This would also be the same stuff you would use for your liner so if you can find it, get extra.

[flyrod6057]

Pillow ticking is a fair substitute for hair canvas in a pinch. I used it for a stabilizer = no stretch.

For hair canvas:

http://shop.afashionablestitch.com/p...-medium-weight

[Dixiecat]

Just a note for those who might use cotton broadcloth instead of hair canvas.

Cotton broadcloth has a slight stretch along the crosswise or weft, while hair canvas has none. There is a very slight stretch along the lengthwise grain (warp), but that's negligible and only of concern if you were making a long, long garment.

So, if I was using cotton broadcloth, I'd cut the stabilizer and interfacing along the lengthwise grain. If I was using it for lining, then I'd cut it normally.

The hand of cotton broadcloth is also not the same as hair canvas, of course being stiffer and if you compared two kilts made with each, the one with the cotton broadcloth would 'flex' a little easier. Otherwise, both kilts would be identical, although you may find you prefer the fit of one or the other due to the construction, but that's a personal thing and I wouldn't venture an opinion of which one that would be. Make a kilt with both and see for yourself!

I used bright white pillow ticking for the lining of my kilt, it was murder to sew through!