Tweed vs. Worsted Weight Wool

[Quart Bernstein]

Going to make this short and sweet.

I can see and have felt the difference between tweed and worsted wool in Lochcarron strome weight.
I realize there is different qualitie's of tweed, but i'm thinking in the range similar to Harris.

Comparing kilt-making tweed's like Harris to D.C. Dalgliesh/Lochcarron, what difference's are there in the fabric?

1) Difference's in durability between the two.
2) Difference's in how the two breath. And swish factor in weight.

[seanachie]

Well, I have just one tweed kilt and it is from Marton Mills tweed and sewn by John Hart of Keltoi. It is a fantastic kilt and I really like it. The hand is different than worsted wool and quite comfortable. I feel confident there are no issues with durability as I bought the kilt for predominantly less dress type functions. If my budget allows I will no doubt add in the future. Also photos generally do not do tweed justice, the subtler colors in the wool do not reveal themselves as nicely as in person.
I have found no differences in the way the different wool breathes and the swish in my tweed is fantastic.

[Paul Henry]

There is a difference in the preparation for the threads of worsted wool yarn from ordinary wool yarn in that the individual strands are combed and all lie in the same direction, and the small lengths are removed. This was a technique developed in a village in England called Worsted in the 12th century.It means that the spun thread and woven cloth is finer and strongerand normally a tighter weave as well. It is generally thought of as a high quality product.
Harris tweed yarn doesn't undergo this technique so the resulting spun thread and cloth are consequently a it thicker and a bit hairier, and appears to be bulkier even for the same weight.Harris tweed is almost a special case as most normal tweed cloth is now made from more prepared yarns with finer and smoother threads, so it's important to realise that there is a big difference between Harris tweed and Marton Mills tweed, for example.
I've made kilts in both Harris and Marton Mills cloth and am happy with using either but there are differences.

Harris tweed because of it's bulk doesn't hold a pleat as well as Marton mill tweed, despite extended steam pressing, and using much more than about 6 yards would make a very bulky and thick kilt. Marton Mills tweed has a softer, thiner, and finer hand to the cloth and although it doesn't take a crease quite as well as a worsted cloth seems to work well.

Another point to note is that Harris cloth can be a little itchy as there are usually loose fibres and some people are sensitive to those,it's a lovely cloth and I enjoy using it, but I'd not really say it was the perfect cloth to make what we think of a classical and traditional 8 yard kilt, but it can be done!


I don't think there is a durabilty issue between the two, but the softer and less tightly woven Harris cloth will acheive a "worn in" look a bit faster and perhaps need a little more care in the upkeep.

There are of course lots of different tweeds available and lots of different weights and finishes from lots of different weavers, I think tweed makes a lovely kilt and I don't believe there is much of a difference in swish between comparable weights.

I think tweeds kitls are lovely and enjoy wearing and making them but the actual cloth is different from a typcial worsted tartan, that isn't a negative thing, and I'd certainly say that they are worth a serious look .


You can clearly see the more open weave and softer feel of the Harris tweed here,this was a traditional knife pleated kilt using about 5 yards of cloth whichI think of a good lenght to work with

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I agree with Paul, given the thickness and softness of the Harris Tweed cloth, I would not want to use much more than 5 or 6 yards myself. This Harris tweed kilt I made uses about 5m of cloth, and it is as heavy as I would want a kilt to be. Any more and I believe it would have been overkill!


Having made and worn both kilts from Harris Tweed and typical worsted wool tartan, here are my observations on the differences.
1. Don't expect as crisp or flat a pleat with the tweed kilt. Be happy with a softer, more rolling pleat.
2. Because of the thickness and softness of the fabric, a tweed kilt will feel warmer and bulkier than a comparable worsted wool kilt (made from the same weight and length of fabric).
3. A tweed kilt will definitely have a more "country" look to it. I love wearing tweed kilts for daywear, but I don't think them especially suited for formal occasions.

I cannot say I have noticed any difference in "durability."

[xman]

I have a six yard Cairngorm (Marton Mills) tweed kilt. It hangs and swings and pleats every bit as well as my worsted kilts. I suspect it breathes slightly more than my worsted kilts, but I could be imagining it. The hand is a little rougher, but not by much really. It does seem a little less durable than worsted wool, again not by much and I could be imagining it. All in all I'm very happy with it and am sure I will have at least one other some day. I suggest you get one for yourself and enjoy the difference personally.