In search of the meaning of the term "bespoke".

[David Thorpe]

I have seen this term bandied about, quite liberally I think, here on Xmarks and elsewhere online, notably on vendor websites. I have seen it applied to everything from jackets and kilts to kilt pins and sgian dubhs.

A Google search using “define:bespoke” yielded some interesting material. According to various sources, the term originates with the fine tailoring business and refers to garments made not from a pattern, but solely from actual measurements of the wearer. In this context, bespoke is differentiated from both “off the rack” and “made to measure” where a pattern is modified or adapted for a custom fit.

The definition is fairly clear for jackets, but with kilts, it would seem that since patterns are not normally a part of the kilt making process, any made-to-measure kilt could be termed as “bespoke”. But is “bespoke”, in this context, the same as “tank”? Does a “bespoke kilt” imply a 16-ounce, worsted wool, 8-yard kilt? Could a 5-yarder, a 4-yard box pleated, a 13-ounce or a (gasp) PV be rightly called “bespoke”?

With non-fabric items, it gets even fuzzier. Is the term properly applied to a made-to-order, original design sporran? How about a kilt pin, brooch, sgian dubh, belt and/or buckle specifically designed and made to order for the wearer?

Back to other fabric items, what about Balmorals, hose, garters or flashes?

I understand that a consensus among Xmarks posters is a mission impossible, but I think some discussion might possibly be helpful.

[RogerWS76]

Etymology Dictionary

bespoke "custom or custom-made, made to order," of goods, as distinguished from ready-made, 1755, the same sense found earlier in bespoken (c.1600), pp. of bespeak, in a sense of "to speak for, to arrange beforehand," a sense attested in bespeak from 1580s. Now usually of tailored suits.

[longhuntr74]

From my view, David...a bespoke jacket would be one in which the "commissioner" has his say in any and every aspect of the design (ie. he gets to choose the buttons, cuff style, pocket style, buttons, etc) and that the jacket is a one of a kind piece made specifically to the measurements of the commissioner. This varies from made to measure cases where you are ordering a standard style jacket (with perhaps some choices in cuff style and number of front buttons) made to some fairly common pattern sizes.

As far as kilts go...any kilt that is made to your measurement and from your chosen fabric would qualify as "Bespoke" in my book.

Bonnets, etc are a hard sell in the "bespoke" realm...styles are fairly standard. You may choose a color and have some say in the size of the crown, etc...but I'm not sure I'd classify that as bespoke.

[artificer]

The term Bespoke itself is thought to have come from the fabric "Being Spoken For".

In most proper Savile Row terms a "bespoke" item of clothing is built from a pattern made directly from YOUR measurements, and requires three fittings at specific stages of the garment's construction.

When ordering a bespoke garment the commissioner should rightly have say in every detail of the garment- overall fit, venting, button configuration, lining, etc, etc.

The best traditionally made kilts are obviously hand made to a commissioner's measurements but don't use an actual pattern, or the under-structure required in jackets.
In Savile Row terms I don't know that a kilt would technically qualify. In practical terms a custom kilt certainly could be considered bespoke.


ith:

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Kilts, for which the customer selects the fabric and tartan, and for which the customer is measured for a precise fit, and which are made by a single tailor, are bespoke garments.

[Tobus]

Yes, a 4- or 5- yard kilt can be bespoke, even when made from PV or other materials. It is not synonymous with the term "tank". The term "tank" (which as I understand it, was coined on this forum) refers specifically to a kilt that it is made from 16-oz wool, 8 yards (or thereabouts), and hand-sewn. It should also have an internal stabilizer and interfacing, as well as other details which make it "built like a tank". These are usually bespoke, but I don't think they necessarily have to be in order to be considered tanks.

So while a kilt may be bespoke, it isn't necessarily a tank. And while a tank may be bespoke, it doesn't have to be in order to be a tank.

[David Thorpe]

So does the term properly apply to made-to-order items other than kilts and jackets?
For example, my brother is currently knitting a pair of hose for me. He had me choose the yarns and the (cable) knitting pattern. He also knit and felted me a bonnet of my chosen color. The hunting sporran I just finished (for myself) is to my knowledge unique and built exactly as I wanted.
Are any of these items "bespoke"? Or does the term properly apply strictly to garments?

[CDNSushi]

So does the term properly apply to made-to-order items other than kilts and jackets?
For example, my brother is currently knitting a pair of hose for me. He had me choose the yarns and the (cable) knitting pattern. He also knit and felted me a bonnet of my chosen color. The hunting sporran I just finished (for myself) is to my knowledge unique and built exactly as I wanted.
Are any of these items "bespoke"? Or does the term properly apply strictly to garments?

I would say yes. Although this IS in the strictest sense, a tailoring industry word... Here's a clip from the appropriate article on Wikipedia:

Once a fashion industry-specific term, bespoke is increasingly being applied to custom specification in other industries, including:

• custom software, in which it refers to software designed and written for a single company and/or task
• telecommunications, referring to non-standard solutions tailored for specific customers
• finance, including individually tailored mutual fund portfolios and structured finance products
• furniture
• interior design
• music customised music projects, and production
• luxury automobile interior appointments and coachbuilding.
• Bristol Cars in England is one of the rare remaining truly bespoke car manufacturers, as its cars are only made on order, not made on an assembly line, and in making some cars the body parts are still made on an English Wheel (noting however, that its Chrysler engine & transmission are not bespoke).
• firearms, particularly luxury sporting arms such as shotguns and rifles, which may include custom appointments (stocks made of rare woods, custom engraving, case colouring or other metalwork) and custom fitting
• shoemaking, generally provided by small manufacturers working by hand
• perfume, a custom made scent composed specifically for an individual
• porcelain
• jewellery, including timepieces
• travel planning
• customisation of a particular product or service (e.g. envelopes)
• Internet Marketing, or "Bespoke Strategy" a custom internet marketing strategy usually related to SEO or SEM
• essays purchased from third parties for the purpose of illicitly submitting them to school courses as one's own work.
• Surgery, bespoke intraoperative ultrasound systems that can optimize the compromise between removing tumor and sparing healthy tissue. ARDMS Updates and Headlines in the News Ultrasound Guided Liver Surgery.
• bicycles, where the customer can fully customize the build of a bike, common in larger U.S. cities with bicycling culture.

[Downunder Kilt]

My understanding of the term bespoke is that the main criteria, is that you do not start with any kind of existing pattern. A pattern is made/created from your requirements and specifications. This can apply to anything from clothes to furniture through to IT systems and machinery. It is not an adaption of an existing item

[OC Richard]

So does the term properly apply to made-to-order items other than kilts and jackets?

Can be anything.

A friend who is a sword collector contacted a sword maker in England, inquiring about purchasing a particular sword he had seen. He received the pithy reply "Sorry, sword bespoke". My friend came to me about it and I explained that it meant that the sword was a "one-off" or custom-made as we say here.

The opposite of bespoke BTW is off-the-peg. Here it's custom-made and off-the-rack.

Another interesting phrase I've seen British shops use is to hand, which here is in stock.