help with tartan weight

[Leoghan]

hello all,
i am in need of some help.
i am thinking of getting some tartan from the Scotweb store. i will pry be getting a weather Gordon my problem is deciding between the 10oz and the 8 oz fabric.
i would like to have a feel of them before ordering.
i have a few stillwater standard kilts does anyone know the weight of that fabric?
i am going for the mid to light weight stuff because up state NY has brutal humidity during the summer but i also don't want it so light that a breeze on a chill day makes my nethers cringe .
any help will be greatly appreciated .

[M. A. C. Newsome]

If you are thinking of making a kilt from this, do NOT get the 8 oz spring weight. That is a tie weight and not suitable for kilts at all. It's also likely to be a plain weave, not a twill, as most 8 oz tartan fabric I am familiar with is a plain weave.

A 10 oz twill weave is the absolute lightest cloth I would make a kilt from, and even then it is very light weight.

[Leoghan]

i have been doing some digging around the forum, and was coming to the idea that both would be light, so maybe the 13oz would be better and take some abuse?

[Father Bill]

To be honest, just the other side of the lakes from you, I wear 16 oz with great comfort and coolness, and if I could have gotten it, I would have ordered 18 or even 22 oz. The heavier it is, the less it clings and the more it waves to create a breeze. The only place it's warm is over your lower belly, and that hasn't bothered me any.

[Leoghan]

thank you, i may consider the 16oz now,lol, on another question what is a tucked in selvedge ? does this mean it is folded over and stitched?
at the web site all the weathered gordon in the 13 and 16 oz say they have this edge.

[sailortats]

I have 2 kilts in 13oz weight wool and find them perfect for all kinds of weather. I am in San Francisco and our temps can go from 52F in the morning to 78F or even higher in the early afternoon. My 13 oz are perfect for the entire day. I also have a USA Kilts pv, but I am not sure of the weight on that one, but it is also good for all day wear.
If I lived farther north, as Father Bill does, I too would probably prefer a 16 or 18 oz kilt.

[Father Bill]

Not as much farther north as most folks think! The southernmost tip of Canada (Pelee island - 1 1/2 hr drive from here, mostly west) is actually farther south than the northern border of California if you check on lines of latitude! Now your climate is admittedly much sunnier than ours, but we do have the humidity to deal with.

[fcgeil]

For a kilt (which it seems is your desired end product), 13 oz is the minimum I would use. I've had an 11 oz, and it just isn't enough. Frankly, I don't think I'll ever get cloth lighter than 16 oz again.

Tuck in selvedge?

From Anne the Pleater:

I have some tartan fabrics made with a tuck in selvage, and it is perfectly neat and acceptable.

It is done so that each thread of the weft is cut, rather than being continuous with the next thread in that colour. The end of the thread is run back into the fabric so it effectively makes the fabric twice as thick just at the very edge.

You'd need to get very close to see that this was the case, and perhaps even have to feel it to be sure. The tiny tufts of the ends can be felt, but they must be pressed down in processing, because they are not very obvious, at least on the fabric I have.

I have read that one firm has got custom made looms which make a true kilting selvage, which is commendable, but for most purposes a tartan with a tucked selvage isn't going to be in any way detrimental to the kilt.

Anne the Pleater

[Leoghan]

oops ya my intent is to make either a great kilt or another casual box pleat one.
thank you on the tuck in selvage , when i saw it listed like that i began to worry, i have had a few kilts over the years wear the bottom was folded and hemmed with about and inch or so folded under and hemmed, and never really like how the bottom of the pleats sit.
would anyone have a photo of a kilt made like this or a good pict of fabric with this edge?
not wanting to be a bother, it is just a lot of money to drop and id like to know exactly what id be getting.
on another side note, is there a better place to order good tartan from (with comparable prices) as Scotweb?
many.many thanks to all.

[jhockin]

.... a lot of money to drop and id like to know exactly what id be getting.
on another side note, is there a better place to order good tartan from (with comparable prices) as Scotweb?
.

as far as price is concerned, you might like to check-out Fraser & Kirkbright ( I've made a number of kilts from their fabric):
http://www.wooltartan.com/index.htm