Let's talk about ghillie brogues again: the Highland perspective

**Tobus** · 3rd August 12, 05:21 AM

In past discussions, I've seen remarks made from our Highland residents that ghillie brogues are seen as less than desirable, and they are often referred to as "those dreaded ghillie brogues" or some such. And as I recall, they were never meant as formal shoes or dress shoes (despite the fact that some people today seem to wear them for formal occasions). Rather, their origin was for walking in soggy/rough terrain. The open-top design and holes in the leather were meant to drain water when crossing bogs, and the laces were meant to go up the leg to keep them from pulling off your feet in the mud. They were an evolution from the early Highland moccasins.

They seem to have been quite common in portraits by MacLeay, although I concede that these portraits are not considered the be-all end-all of what Highlanders actually wore. Yet all the evidence seems to suggest that these shoes were quite common in centuries past. Obviously, times have changed.

But what's the real deal with ghillie brogues? Are they ever appropriate in today's Highland traditions? If so, when and where? Can I get a sort of "ghille brogue dos and don'ts" from our Highland brethren, based on Highland tradition as it exists today?

**unixken** · 3rd August 12, 06:04 AM

Here, here! I too, would be interested in learning about this. Great topic, Tobus!

**MacMillan of Rathdown** · 3rd August 12, 09:20 AM

I think we need to make a clear distinction between the ghillie brogues that are sold/rented by Highland outfitters and worn by marching bands, and the formal evening shoes of the same style that were the norm "way back when". And by "way back when" I'm referring to the period of about 1910-1960-ish.

In the first instance what are thought of as modern ghillie brogues are really intended as heavy duty outdoor shoes-- perfect for marching on pavement or clumping about the local Scottish games. They are not well suited to tramping o'er the moors, thru fields, or up the sides of mountains in pursuit of game or delightful views. Even when attached to "commando" soles, there are far better shoes for this than the heavy, leaky, ghillie brogue. Nor are they suited for evening attire...

Evening shoes are supposed to be light (for dancing) and elegant. For the same reason a pair of wing tip Oxfords aren't paired with a tuxedo, modern "marching band" ghillie brogues shouldn't be worn with Highland evening attire. Now if you are fortunate enough to be able to have a proper pair of light weight, thin soled, evening brogues made (preferably in patent leather), then by all means do so. If this is beyond one's means, then the best alternative is a pair of highly polished black shoes, either plain or with a toe cap. Patent leather evening shoes are available from most tuxedo rental shops, and these are perfectly acceptable as well.

The bottom line is that heavy-duty ghillie brogues are fine when worn with a band uniform or tweed jacket, marginal if worn going out in the evening, and inappropriate with formal Highland evening attire.

**creagdhubh** · 3rd August 12, 09:25 AM

I would like to reiterate the fact that Loake (my shoe of choice when wearing Highland attire) makes a rather fine pair of 'Ghillie' brogues with thin, leather soles well suited for evening or day occassions. With either black or red laces, and the addition of optional silver buckles, they look very smart indeed.

Loake L1 Ghillie Brogues. Personally, I prefer for the laces to be a wee bit thinner in overall circumference than what is shown below.

Cheers,

**auld argonian** · 3rd August 12, 10:26 AM

Why do I suspect that the proliferation of ghillie brogues has something to do with the wedding kilt rental thing in the USA...much like the white hose thing...telling you that you have to rent a pair of uncomfortable and unattractive shoes that you could not possibly own just to pad the bill?

Best

AA

**Jackson** · 3rd August 12, 11:02 AM

Good thread and good info. I would like to pose another question, along the same lines, and ask the opinion of all on the tassel fronted loafers for casual dress. In my kilt wearing experience, it seems that folks, here in the States anyway, expect to see the Gillies. I'm often asked about the shoes since I don't have the broques and don't find them particularly attractive, or appropriate, for my locale and typical wearing conditions.

I'll be watching this thread with much interest....... Thanks,

Jackson

**Tobus** · 3rd August 12, 11:21 AM

The bottom line is that heavy-duty ghillie brogues are fine when worn with a band uniform or tweed jacket, marginal if worn going out in the evening, and inappropriate with formal Highland evening attire.

OK, so then do ghillie brogues need to be thought of as two distinct types of shoes? One that's suited for outdoors (i.e. heavy-duty) and one that's suited for indoors (i.e. light and thin-soled)? The tradition would then have two sets of 'rules', one for each type?

If I'm understanding you correctly, the heavy-duty type are perfectly acceptable in Scottish tradition to wear to a Highland Games or other "day wear" type modes of dress, but would raise eyebrows if worn in the evening, and cause outright choking fits if worn formally. That makes perfect sense to me. But would it also mean that the thin-soled lighter ghillie brogues are more acceptable for evening wear (black tie) or even formal wear (white tie)? Or is there a cap on the formality of ghillie brogues, regardless of their construction?

Back to the day wear question. I've seen lots of pictures of native Scots (even clan chiefs) wearing them at Highland Games. Do Highland Scots generally consider this a perfectly acceptable choice of footwear, or do some roll their eyes and snicker when they see them being worn? I'm not trying to stir the pot or anything, but I really would like to know the honest Highland opinion of them as a choice for day wear. Are they considered costumish by some?

I bought a pair of vintage thin-soled ghillie brogues a couple of months ago. I don't know why. I just liked the pair I saw on eBay and thought they looked more classic than most that I've seen. They're well-used, and are made by Keltic - "The Scottish Shoe". They have thinner leather soles than my other shoes, though they are not patent leather. They do not have any rubber on the bottom, nor the metal heel that is often seen on band/military shoes. Here's a pic of them:

I would not wear them in the evening. I bought them strictly as an alternative for day wear. They didn't cost much. I figured I could clean them up, put shoe trees in them for a while to straighten out the wrinkling, polish them well, and make them a decent casual shoe. But I obviously don't want to come across as costumish, which is why I'm interested in when/where they would be appropriate (if at all).