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17th August 12, 06:34 PM
#1
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17th August 12, 08:18 PM
#2
I couldn't begin to answer, but great job on asking. I don't know that I will ever attempt making a kilt. I will read the answer though.
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17th August 12, 08:36 PM
#3
 Originally Posted by Taj
I couldn't begin to answer, but great job on asking. I don't know that I will ever attempt making a kilt. I will read the answer though.
Ummmm....yes, exactly. I am convinced that I will never endeavor to make a kilt. I am still trying to work up the nerve to make my own hose--or find the time to actually learn, either way...great question. I look forward to the responses.
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17th August 12, 08:48 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by Taj
I couldn't begin to answer, but great job on asking. I don't know that I will ever attempt making a kilt. I will read the answer though.
 Originally Posted by Spartan Tartan
Ummmm....yes, exactly. I am convinced that I will never endeavor to make a kilt. I am still trying to work up the nerve to make my own hose--or find the time to actually learn, either way...great question. I look forward to the responses.
Taj and Spartan Tartan making a kilt is not that hard. The general direction for an X-Kilt are simple for a solid color cloth. Try it and you will be hooked.
Spartan Tartan if you can knit, purl, increase and decrease you can knit kilt hose. Add a few cables and impress your friends and fellow kilties. My thought would to used sport or even worsted weight yarn for the first few. "Sock" weight yarn just has toooooooo many stitches for my size 13 (US) feet, 18 inch calves and long legs. Don't let anyone tell you that knitting socks is hard there are knitters here and on knitting forums that will help you ever stitch along the way.
As for time I take my knitting with me and can often be found knitting, kilted at Wal-Mart waiting for my wife. I have never figured out how "I'm just going in for one item" can always take over an hour.
Last edited by Friday; 17th August 12 at 08:50 PM.
If you see abbreviations, initials or acronyms you do not know the Xmarks FAQ section on abbreviations may help.
www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/faq.php?faq=xmarks_faq#faq_faq_abbr
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18th August 12, 03:25 AM
#5
Having likewise long ago upgraded from a 6 pack to a pony keg, I understand the dilemma, and would love to read the answer. Great job "illustrating" the point.
KEN CORMACK
Clan Buchanan
U.S. Coast Guard, Retired
Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, USA
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18th August 12, 04:17 AM
#6
Let me just say first that I am happy that you think I have 6 pack abs. Most people wouldn't notice, as I have lately been keeping my 6-pack protected in a large styrofoam cooler -- just to keep 'em cool, you know. :-) I also think it's funny you named your 12-pack guy Sam, as that's my brother's name, and he's thinner than I am.
As to the issue at hand, I think you are overthinking this somewhat. One thing you are missing is that cloth is more flexible and drapes entirely different than cardboard or posterboard.
When making a kilt for someone whose waist is larger than their hips, there is no "negative taper." You essentially ignore the hip measurement in that case, and more or less carry the waist measurement down. So, for instance, if a person's waist is 47" and their hips only 44", then I use the 47" measurement on their hip, as well.
And actually, I still make the hips a bit larger. I still add the 2" increase to the apron, to maintain the proper apron shape, but then in the pleats, I just make them the same measurements at waist and hip. So there is no taper at all in the pleats.
This has always worked well for me, though I suppose I may have to adjust my method somewhat if I had a client who had a "bubble butt" (where your seat comes out quite a bit from the small of your back). Most men I find don't have that much junk in their trunk (if I may), and so it's not an issue.
In fact the issue I have to deal with most in men of substance is the exact opposite. All of the extra girth is in the front, in their stomach, and their rear ends are rather non-existent by comparison. I drew some lines on your graphic to illustrate what I mean.

You can see in 6-pack man that the median line down the center of his profile essentially bisects the kilt. You want the pleats to start and end at this line, meaning in this case about half the kilt will be pleats, and half apron. Now, in Mr. 12-pack, if we draw a bisecting line down the same place in his body, he has much more of his kilt in the front than in the back. This means if we want the pleats to begin at this mid-point, we actually should make the apron larger than the pleated portion of the kilt. And so often when making kilts for men of substance, I will make the aprons larger than the pleats to maintain this balanced look when the kilt is being worn.
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