Going the custom shirt route...

[Tobus]

I think I've finally reached the point where I'm sick and tired of trying to fit into off-the-rack shirts that never fit me quite right. Being a smaller guy, it's hard enough just to find shirts that fit me in the shoulders, but usually when I do, they fit me poorly in other areas. It's pretty rare to find one, for example, that isn't made for an obese person. I like a fitted shirt.

There are lots of places to find shirts that will fit me reasonably well, but they're pretty expensive. For example, my twin brother (who, oddly enough, is the same size as me ) gave me some shirts from Express that I'm pretty happy with. But I figure if I'm going to spend that much on shirts, I might as well get something that's made exactly to fit me, where I can choose every detail and measurement, instead of finding one that I can just "live with".

I'm going to try Matt Newsome's suggestion at Shirts My Way. Hopefully, taking advantage of their next special. But I wanted to pick your brains a little bit first before deciding on all the options.

For starters, these shirts will primarily be worn at my office, wearing slacks or even a suit on occasion. So their primary purpose isn't specific to the kilt. However, I do want them to do double-duty with the kilt (as with most everything I buy these days), which leads to my questions below.

1. I'm not a huge fan of stark white dress shirts. I already have some of those if I need them, so my intent is to choose shirts with a subtle colour or pattern. That being said, I really like French cuffs, in the 'double cuff' or fold-back style, not a single cuff. I often see French cuffs worn with a solid-colour shirt, but I can't say that I see very many patterned shirts with French cuffs. Perhaps it's because people today only tend to wear French cuffs for dressy or formal events, where they'd be wearing a white shirt. But if I choose a patterned shirt (like a tattersal), is there any reason French cuffs would be out of place or create an odd mix of styles?

2. On the subject of French cuffs, I can see that these would be perfectly acceptable with the kilt for evening attire, but what about day wear? Are French cuffs ever worn with a kilt when paired with, say, a tweed jacket and Balmoral bonnet? Or would this, again, be an odd mix of styles? Is it ever done in the Highlands? I suppose this is a general question on the appropriateness of French cuffs with the lower levels of dress in THCD.

3. I'm unlikely to choose a coloured shirt with a white collar and cuffs (which is a look I usually associate with bankers or executive types), but just for my own edification, are shirts like this ever worn with the kilt? Seems like a strange mix of styles, but I'm curious if it's ever done.

[Livingston]

Good questions, Tobus. I have one shirt with French cuffs that is a very subtle stripe but would be interested in more.

[Peter Crowe]

Personally speaking Tobus, I think this is where one can bring in a bit of personal flair to THCD. I like double cuffed shirts that require cufflinks for general wear with a suit, sports jacket and cords, or blazer and flannels, the levels of dress that correspond to THCD day-attire. Like you, I am not wild about coloured shirts with white collars and cuffs. I don't see why such a shirt as you describe would be outrageous in a more subtle tattersal check, but not in the heavy woolen Viyella tattersal check shirt (which is a more rustic shirt anyway).

As for going bespoke, if I could afford it I would, because having Marfan syndrome I have extra long arms (my height is 5' 10" and my wingspan 6'6" and I need a 16" collar), so getting shirts with long enough sleeves is always a gamble. That is probably why double cuffed shirts suit me is they tend to be more generous in sleeve length even when the cuffs are folded back. Again as a matter of personal taste I also dislike button down collars on any shirt I would wear with a tie.

When wearing tweed day-wear with cufflinks, I would go for subtle links (not too shiny) or the little woolen double knotted cuff fasteners sold at good Gent's outfitters like Brooks Brothers in the US or Austin Reed in the UK.

[Mudge]

Have you tried the "Slim fit" shirt from Walmart or other department store? I bought two that were pricey from Del Brothers men's store here at home. I love the fit, and they feel as comfortable as a 'tank'.

Cheers,

Mike

[Tobus]

When wearing tweed day-wear with cufflinks, I would go for subtle links (not too shiny) or the little woolen double knotted cuff fasteners sold at good Gent's outfitters like Brooks Brothers in the US or Austin Reed in the UK.

Agreed. I should have mentioned that in my original post. I have a decent selection of cufflinks. It is amazing what kind of selection I can find by going into antique stores, and several generations worth of cufflinks will be there at dirt-cheap prices. Just the other day (last Saturday was my birthday), I bought 5 more sets of vintage cufflinks for about $5 to $10 per set. Some of them were very subtle and modest, including a silver pair that's over 100 years old. Those would be best for day wear. Might even be fun to make a set with antler buttons to match a tweed kilt jacket!

[Cygnus]

Okay, here are my weak attempts to answer your questions - based both on what I've seen here and elsewhere and my own personal taste:

1. I'm not a huge fan of stark white dress shirts. I already have some of those if I need them, so my intent is to choose shirts with a subtle colour or pattern. That being said, I really like French cuffs, in the 'double cuff' or fold-back style, not a single cuff. I often see French cuffs worn with a solid-colour shirt, but I can't say that I see very many patterned shirts with French cuffs. Perhaps it's because people today only tend to wear French cuffs for dressy or formal events, where they'd be wearing a white shirt. But if I choose a patterned shirt (like a tattersal), is there any reason French cuffs would be out of place or create an odd mix of styles?

1. No reason at all. I believe Jock Scot once posted saying that most/all of his shirts have double cuffs (I trust Jock will correct me if I am not remembering properly).

2. On the subject of French cuffs, I can see that these would be perfectly acceptable with the kilt for evening attire, but what about day wear? Are French cuffs ever worn with a kilt when paired with, say, a tweed jacket and Balmoral bonnet? Or would this, again, be an odd mix of styles? Is it ever done in the Highlands? I suppose this is a general question on the appropriateness of French cuffs with the lower levels of dress in THCD.

2. A good rule (that I follow) is to only wear French-cuff shirts when wearing a necktie, which you can do both day and evening. I really dislike the look of cufflinks with an open collar and no tie.

3. I'm unlikely to choose a coloured shirt with a white collar and cuffs (which is a look I usually associate with bankers or executive types), but just for my own edification, are shirts like this ever worn with the kilt? Seems like a strange mix of styles, but I'm curious if it's ever done.

3. I can't answer this one, but I do think it would look a bit strange (and probably wouldn't be considered THCD).

[Zardoz]

1. I'm not a huge fan of stark white dress shirts. I already have some of those if I need them, so my intent is to choose shirts with a subtle colour or pattern. That being said, I really like French cuffs, in the 'double cuff' or fold-back style, not a single cuff. I often see French cuffs worn with a solid-colour shirt, but I can't say that I see very many patterned shirts with French cuffs. Perhaps it's because people today only tend to wear French cuffs for dressy or formal events, where they'd be wearing a white shirt. But if I choose a patterned shirt (like a tattersal), is there any reason French cuffs would be out of place or create an odd mix of styles?

with a couple exceptions, anytime you see me wearing a tie, I'm wearing a custom shirt with French cuffs. I'm OK with the plain white shirt for some occasions, but I have them in several colors. while I personally do not care for a lot of pattern in my shirts, I see patterned french cuffs all the time. I get most of my shirts here; http://www.paulfredrick.com/Catalog/...rank=rank_bk5; They have stuff you can order from a menu, or full custom.
2. On the subject of French cuffs, I can see that these would be perfectly acceptable with the kilt for evening attire, but what about day wear? Are French cuffs ever worn with a kilt when paired with, say, a tweed jacket and Balmoral bonnet? Or would this, again, be an odd mix of styles? Is it ever done in the Highlands? I suppose this is a general question on the appropriateness of French cuffs with the lower levels of dress in THCD.

Well, I don't see them as only for evening, I wear them with daywear and tweed etc...

3. I'm unlikely to choose a coloured shirt with a white collar and cuffs (which is a look I usually associate with bankers or executive types), but just for my own edification, are shirts like this ever worn with the kilt? Seems like a strange mix of styles, but I'm curious if it's ever done.

I don't think I've noticed that. I don't care for that shirt style in general though.

[madmacs]

I'd say your best bang for the buck would be a button down with regular cuffs...

I wouldnt wear french cuffs without a tie, and even then not with anything less than a suit which i'd say would be an argyll minimum... Of course that doesnt mean you cant...

[Tobus]

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. Yes, wearing French cuffs seems to be proper only when worn with a tie, and preferably a jacket. That is my intent.

Honestly, I don't see anybody around here in my everyday life wearing French cuffs, so it's interesting to see perspectives from elsewhere (which is why I asked). It sounds like they are just a detail of personal flair, or subtle elegance, rather than a mark of formality. Perfect.

Gosh you chaps do make life complicated! I agree a well fitted shirt is a nice thing to wear, but after that, much of my conscious everyday thoughts about shirts is almost non existent.

Well, that's sort of the point here. If I'm ordering a truly custom shirt where I choose every option from collar style to cuff style to fabric to buttons, I want to make sure my choice is something that will remove any need for "conscious everyday thoughts" when picking out the shirt I'll wear. Specifically, I want to avoid having to separate my shirts into categories for kilt-appropriate or non-kilt-appropriate. I want to make sure I'm not doing anything that would cause the dreaded "raised eyebrow" effect.

[JohntheBiker]

If you would like to play around designing a custom tailored shirt, try itailor.com. They have software that builds the shirt with each choice - reasonable prices as well.

I agree that french cuffs look best with a jacket and would look great with a kilted outfit. A little more formal than a buttoned cuff, I feel they look better in white's, solids or stripes. That's just personal preference.