How far to sew down the pleats is the easy part.
If you wear the kilt at your natural waist or just under the ribs the Fell, or part of the kilt that is tapered and sewn down is approx. 1/3 the total length of the kilt.
Another way to think of this is the sew down from the waistband to the crest of your hips and butt.
How to sew the pleats down will all depend of the type of kilt you have and who made it.
I can probably assume from you original post that you have a SportKilt. Some have had success sewing down the Fell on this type of kilt and some have not.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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