I also ran into early problems with fit while making casual kilts with a wide waistband (wide enough to take the Velcro that I used as closure). My solution was to measure the waistband strip itself for the length I needed, then adjust the width of aprons/depth of deep pleats as needed to match before sewing the seam.
The thin waistband on traditional kilts is really just a binding to finish the top of the garment. The actual waist fit is at the top buckle, which may be 1.5 to several inches below the top of the kilt.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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