Use of white in a tartan: condemed to look like a "dress tartan"?

[Kinth]

Hi everybody,

I have a question that might interest some people wanting to design their own tartans.

Is there some kind of "traditional" reason why white stripes shouldn't be used in a general tartan? How do you differenciate some general tartan using white (MacFarlane's or Menzie's ones for example) from dress/dance tartan?

Sorry for this noobie question, but I cannot get it clear in my head, each time I'm getting close to an answer, I find one more confusing element on the web...

[David Thorpe]

Overly simplified, white stripes appear in many tartans, while white fields usually indicate a dress or dance tartan.

[madmacs]

Probably something to do with it being brighter... Or getting dirty easier...

Maclean hunting has white stripes...

[KD Burke]

So what if it is a "dress" tartan? If you like it, wear it. Example: "Macdonald Dress Irish"

[Adrian]

The Antarctic and Arctic tartans are district tartans that have quite a lot of white

http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tar...ls.aspx?ref=94

http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tar...s.aspx?ref=107

[Kinth]

Well, the question was because of my tartan design project, I was aiming at designing a general tartan, but my favourite design seems to have too much white... ^^
So I was wondering if there was a way to determine the "right amount" of it, appart from "I like it"... I'd like it to become my family's tartan, so I don't want to end up with something looking weird or being unpractical...
If necessary, after the "original" one, I will have time to think of designing the "dress" version (with more white), the "weathered" version, the "ancient", the "hunt", the...

[Pleater]

I think that there are opposing cultural perceptions at work.

Way back undyed wool was the cheap stuff, colour, and lots of it, strong and bright was the expensive option.

Then white became the mark of someone who didn't work, spotless garments with a certain lack of practicality were the fashions of the upper and leisured classes.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[unixken]

Then white became the mark of someone who didn't work, spotless garments with a certain lack of practicality were the fashions of the upper and leisured classes.

I would also wonder if there was simply a very practical reason. Kilts with "less white" palettes would be less revealing of dirt and smudges, and thus be better suited to everyday activities... where "more white" tartans, could be reserved for occasions and activities where they are less likely to get soiled as quickly (thus negating the concern for hiding everyday stains?)

In other words, would I wear a white shirt while working on my car? No. It'd show every spot of grease. Instead, I'd save it for when wearing a suit.

Then again, maybe I'm just way off the mark.

[Domehead]

I am not speaking for Figheadair:

"No10. BLANKETT SETT for the 28 reed, 4 half Setts with a border...
There are several 18th century examples of similar type patterns with a white block as one of the ground colours. These seem to have been for domestic use such as bed coverings but by the 19th century they were commonly used by fishwives, women working in the fishing industry, as plaids. It is probable that blanket patterns gave rise in the 19th century to the concept of dress tartans." - The 1819 Key Pattern Book, One Hundred Original tartans, Peter Eslea MacDonald

This indicates a feminine utilization of, if not appeal to a "Dress" version of conventional tartans. Hence, the litany of "Dress" style Dance tartans. As well, some Clan Chiefs, the 13th Duke of Argyle among them, don't recognize "Dress" tartans as representative of the Clan. There are some vintage examples of tartans which utilize white - to give the OP some idea of proportionality:
1. Royal Stuart - Vestiarium Scoticum 1842 & T. Smibert 1850
2. Cluny - S. Adie c1850 which was later called...
3. MacPherson - D.W. Stewart 1893

As stated earlier, Figheadair, M.A.C. Newsome, RockyR, John of Keltoi, OCRichard - they are the experts and undoubtedly will make much better contributions.

[figheadair]

You may not be speaking for me but you, together with the replies at #10, 12 and 13 have pretty well wrapped up the historical origins and rationale for the modern dress tartans. I particularly like Ken's comparison with wearing a white shirt.

From a design perspective white, or any other colour for that matter, can be used as a stripe, to add emphasis, or as a ground colour. Aside from blanket patterns, white was only used in old tartans very sparingly to add 'light' to a design and often only as stripes of 2 or 4 threads per stripe. Light blue and to some degree pink were similarly used very sparingly.