5, 6, 7, 8, 9 yard traditional knife pleated kilts?

[frank_a]

One of the XMarks advertisers shows 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 yard traditional knife pleated kilts on her web page. From the past year that I have been frequenting XMarks, I always thought the traditional lilt I wanted would be an 8 yard traditional knife pleated kilt (called a "tank" right?), and that 4 & 5 yard kilts were generally called casual.

I have emailed the advertiser earlier this morning, but she may very well be away and/or inundated with stitching. I figured I would post this questions here and some of you aficionados would know the answer to my question. Thanks!

Frank

[David Thorpe]

"8-yard" and "5-yard" are rough general approximations. The actual yardage will vary and is dependent on several factors including the size of the wearer, the sett size, the pleating scheme, etc. Pleats on an "8-yard kilt" will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/2 - 5/8 inches wide, while on a "5-yard kilt" they will be more in the 3/4 - 7/8 inch range.

[frank_a]

Thanks David. I know that the pleats are smaller on the 8 traditional yard kilt than on my casual PV kilt I got from USA Kilts (which, by the way, I really like), but the kiltmakers web page apparently leaves it to the customer to choose which one ya want. So if I wanted a nice tank with small pleats, just figure to go with the 9 yard?

Ah, decisions, decisions.

Frank

[David Thorpe]

That would depend on the sett, how you want it pleated and your waist and hip measurements. Unless you are a grand-sized laddie and have chosen a particularly suitable tartan and pleating option, nine yards would probably be overkill and maybe even difficult or impossible.
A discussion with your kilt maker will clear up any questions pertaining to your particular case. Anything short of that is pure speculation.

[frank_a]

Thanks David. I will wait to hear from her.

Frank

[Tobus]

So if I wanted a nice tank with small pleats, just figure to go with the 9 yard?

Just for the sake of correct terminology, a higher yardage kilt will have larger pleats with more overlap. They will appear smaller to observers, but they are indeed larger pleats. You can get lower yardage kilts with the same outward "small pleat" look, but it can only be done by cheating the overlap so that it's very small. And it would be difficult to do, depending on the sett size and such.

But yes, generally, if you're looking for what folks here refer to as a "tank", it will be an approximately 8 yard (varies as mentioned above), traditionally made kilt, hand-stitched, with all the necessary structural elements which make it virtually indestructible. It should last several lifetimes with reasonable use and care. A 4-5 yard kilt, and probably even a 6-yard kilt, would not be considered in the same category, even with excellent construction details. It's gotta have the yardage to be a tank! IMHO, of course...

[frank_a]

Thanks Tobus, great information & advice. I appreciate it sir. 8 yard, hand stitched sounds good to me.

Basically, I ask questions and then figure out how to get things done.

Frank

[New World Czech]

With all construction practices being the same. It just comes down to how much weight your want to carry and any temperature difference you wish to feel. I honestly don't notice a big difference between my 4 yard box pleat and my 8 yard knife pleat both in 16oz. When I am hot, I am hot and I haven't worn one outside then turned around and changed into another to verify the difference. I fell the same about cold weather. I wear the kilt I want to wear for the look.

[bonnie heather]

Basically most people would think of a formal kilt as knife pleated and usually 8 yards. As others have said, that would be a "tank".

If the gent has a measurement of 49" or more for his hips or waist, most kiltmakers would make a 9 yard kilt.

The number of pleats, depth of the pleats and size of each pleat depends a lot on the size of the person and the size of the sett.

Some people request kilts with less than 8 yards to keep the fabric cost down a bit.
Also highland dancers and kilts for older children use 7 yards, 6 yards or less. So that's why lower yardage kilts might be wanted.

The difference is that there would be fewer pleats and each pleat would be wider. For example, a typical 8 yard kilt would have about 27-32 pleats that are about 3/4" wide at the hips. But a 5 or 6 yard kilt would have pleats that might be 1 1/4" wide or a bit wider. The construction of these kilts is almost the same as for the 8 yard kilts, except for the number of pleats and the width of the pleats.

A 4 yard casual kilt would have even fewer and wider pleats. Some kiltmakers don't put in lining and use velcro instead of a second strap. The fabric may or may not be woolen tartan.

Some people love 4 yard box pleated kilts, which have a different look.

To me, the authentic woolen tartan is what makes a low yardage kilt look great both for formal and informal wear. If it were cheap acrylic or denim, that would make it look inappropriate for formal wear, in my humble opinion.

[mookien]

Frank: Kevin hit on another criterion that some folks would consider necessary in a "tank" - the weight of the wool.

If you want an indisputable "tank", you may want to have it sewn in heavy-weight wool, ie approximately 15 - 16 oz., or even heavier. For example, the House of Edgar weaves 17 - 18 oz. wool for their line of "Regimental Tartans".

I own "8-yard" kilts in medium-weight (~ 13 oz.) and in heavy-weight (~15 - 16 oz.) tartan. The latter are noticeably heavier - "light tanks" vs. "heavy tanks".

John